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Heat Exchanger Leak

SurabyaKid

Member III
After reading the thread on the engine zinc being located in the heat exchanger, I decided to look at mine as I had not done it in the two years I have had the boat.....and then the trouble began.

I had just finished running the engine and noticed for the first time a drip coming from the raw water intake nipple. I suspected the hose & clamp at first, but the water appears to be coming from the nipple to shell joint. It is not much...about one drip every 5 seconds.

I'm tempted to replace the whole thing...Torreson quoted $313 for an OEM replacement from Seakamp. Another alternative is to pull it, inspect, repair if possible (braze the leak) and replace the zinc.

I have a strong suspicion that the HE has probably never been maintained (as mentioned in the HE zinc thread). So I'd like to throw it out there for advice? FYI, the engine is a 1988 M-12 with 669 hours. It is clean with no other drips/problems and is in generally good shape and appears to have been well maintained except for the HE.

Thanks in advance for the tips.

Pat
E26->"Pronto"
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
If you are in a fresh water lake, you are a lot better off regarding the HE and zinc. Still I would pull it to clean it and get that leak fixed.
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
Thanks Tim,

The boat has always been in NC....Started on the coast and last 4 years on the lake.

I have found some lower quotes for the Seakamp HE.....Generally $50-75 cheaper. Is it worth a premium to buy from Torreson?

Pat
E26-"Pronto"
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
I would only buy the OEM part but that is me. If you can find it cheaper elsewhere, go for it. Check the prices at Hansen Marine in MA also.
 

SurabyaKid

Member III
Epilog

I pulled the HE this morning and took to my local radiator shop. Interestingly, they said they get quite a few of these for repair.

The HE seemed pretty solid without apparent holes or cracks. After sandblasting & dunk tank testing, they found three very small cracks near the raw water inlet nipple that they filled with solder and then they re-enforced the area around the nipple with wire & more solder. I just spray painted the first coat and it looks brand new.

The zinc was gone as expected, and the tubes were all clean and without a build up of crud.

Total cost for sandblasting, pressure leak checks (including side to side) and repair was $45.

Pat
E26->"Pronto"
 
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