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Thread: Rope Clutch Base

  1. #16
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    Cutting FRP/ G-10 etc. Use an abrasive blade like one of these:

    http://www.mytoolstore.com/starrett/band10.html


    Any toothed blade will just dull and burn up. When I was with the rigging company we used this stuff a lot for bases for all sorts of things. The first machine shop cursed the stuff untill we suggested using abrasives. We have had parts made that were 3" thick machined and radiused with the stuff.

    Like any epoxy its important to coat the stuff prior to UV exposure. UV degrades bare epoxy quickly so make sure to pain the stuff.


    One other thing to check is the load rating on those spinlock XAS clutches. I always used the XTS line but on an E-32 you are probably right on the boarder with halyard and reef line loads for the XAS.

    Has anyone compared SWL ratings for the Spinlock XTS, Garhauer, Lewmar D2's?
    Last edited by ted_reshetiloff; 06-08-2009 at 10:41 AM.

  2. #17
    Contributing Partner Akavishon's Avatar
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    When I was shopping around, I've only compared the EasyLock-1 (my old clutch) with the Spinlock XAS0612 (my new clutch) load ratings. According to rigrite.com, the EasyLock has a 'safe working load' of 660lbs, and the XAS0612 claims a max load of 1250lbs.

    I don't know what the actual halyard and reefing load would be on a E32, but the EasyLock was clearly able to handle the past 20+ years, and I felt good about the fact that the Spinlock number is double.

    - Zoran

    (pics are before and after upgrade from EasyLock to Spinlock)
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    '86 32-3 #678 "Vesna"

  3. #18
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    You should be fine but one note of caution. Safe working load and max load are two very different specs. SWL is typically around 50% of breaking strength for hardware, line is a whole other story. Spinlock specs their XAS at a "max safe working load" of 1270. The clutch will likely begin to slip at any load higher than 1270 and could do so on smaller line sized sooner. For the E-32 running 5/16- 3/8 halyards the XAS is the right choice, anything much bigger and you would want the XTS line. If you are using most common halyard line of polyester double braid like sta-set see this link for load ratings:

    http://www.neropes.com/product.aspx?...C&lid=4&pid=18

    SWL for 5/16 staset is probably around 600lbs although breaking load is around 3000.

    FWIW spinlock clutches are the only ones that will ever go on any boat of mine based on my experiences with lewmar, easylock and Garhauer. Just my opinion here but the easylocks are about the worst out there with plastic handles that can break easily leaving you with an inoperable clutch. I have seen more exploded Garhauer hardware than I care to mention. Lewmar runs somewhat close to Spinlock but their clutches dont hold up to UV nearly as well. Flame suit now donned for all other opinions...

  4. #19
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    direction of opening

    Zoran,

    Just following this thread as I am pondeirng my own issues. How are you managing with the direction in which the Spinlock is opening and your dodger? Is there room?

    I looked at this briefly a while back, and I would have to move my clutch back quite a ways to not have it obstructed by my dodger. I was also looking at the few that open the other way. The PS article was great (as ususal).

    Chris
    Chris Winter
    E34 Dangriga 1988 #267

  5. #20
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    Lewmars, which I love due to how they work, fit WAY better on my boat since the lever pulls aft, away from the dodger. Spinlock, Garhauer wouldn't work for me. UV issues are easy to deal with, wipe them down with 303 Protectant every few weeks. RT
    Rob Thomas
    Wakefield, RI
    1983 Ericson E38 "Ruby"
    "I purchased a boat because setting fire to $100 bills was not an efficient enough way to dispose of them...."

  6. #21
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Question Clutching at an idea

    RT and Chris have touched on an issue that we also have been pondering.

    The direction of lever pull, combined with the required clutch location, might call for some repositioning thought.
    I note that all of the "tri cabin" interior designs (E-32-200, late model E-34, E-38-200, Olson 34) have an extended bridgedeck "walkway" to enter the interior. This causes the dodger front to have to be extended forward an extra foot or so to give you headroom when using the companionway. This also lets you reach forward to get to the clutches on either side of the sea hood. You had better have long-enough arms.

    On our boat, in particular, it's a faaaar reach to those clutch handles, with a full width dodger.

    We plan a slight relocation of the housetop clutch stoppers and winches before doing a final design for a full-width dodger for eventual days at sea. This will involve moving the clutch banks back a lot and the winches back to the end of the housetop. The worse part, IMHO, is filling and gel coating all of the old holes!

    Sidebar: I sometimes wonder if there was nearly constant, albeit friendly, tension between the designer and the marketing guys over these later Ericson products -- i.e. the interior cruising layout (I love Martin's recollection of the descriptive word they used!) and the attempt to keep the cockpit winch and line control layout purposeful/useful for high performance sailing (as befits such fast hulls).

    Regards,
    Loren
    Last edited by Loren Beach; 06-23-2009 at 08:26 AM.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  7. #22
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    I replaced my easylocks with spinlocks and put them in the exact same spot. Even used one of the old holes IIRC. No issues with handles clearing the dodger. Fwd Edge of dodger is just aft of traveler. Sorry no photos.

  8. #23
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    Loren,
    I have considered what you are proposing but it is a large PITA project for not a lot of gain. The only winch I am going to move back, and then only a bit is the mainsheet winch. Its undersized IMHO so I am thinking of upsizing and just making the front of the base match the existing front space to cover existing holes. Even so, it will be at the edge of the bulkhead. I am going to reconfigure the dodger, its getting quite thin, so that the "windshield" is at a steeper angle. More room for winch handles, using clutches, etc. If I couldn't get a clutch that released by pulling aft well then I would have had to do something more drastic.

    RT
    Rob Thomas
    Wakefield, RI
    1983 Ericson E38 "Ruby"
    "I purchased a boat because setting fire to $100 bills was not an efficient enough way to dispose of them...."

  9. #24
    Contributing Partner Akavishon's Avatar
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    Ted, that's great education, thanks ... good to know the numbers to work out in the end.

    Chris - the dodger clearance is actually not a big problem at all. When fully opened, the handles of the outer clutches (away from the centerline) do press against the dodger slightly, and the inner clutches don't even get there - see photos below. In the worst case, it's rather easy to unbutton the dodger at that point and give it slightly more room.

    I use the outer clutches for lines which I touch rather infrequently, e.g. the jib&spin halyard, boom vang etc. The inner clutches are for the main halyard and reefing lines, and they are free to move.

    I have to admit that I had not thought of this in advance (I had not used my dodger at all last season), so I guess I just got lucky ...

    I was MUCH more concerned to position the clutches so that the angle of the line from the clutch towards the winch does not exceed some max degrees, whatever was recommended by spinlock. That's pretty hard with four clutches, since there is very little space in that area, and I did not want to move the winches.

    - Zoran
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    '86 32-3 #678 "Vesna"

  10. #25
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    Always best to dry fit...

    Thanks, Zoran. My P.O. had the levers sawn off and drilled holes for small lanyards to be used to pull the levers back with the existing design. That's how tight it was.

    OTOH, I think the only way to definitively assess this is by taking the clutch out to the boat (heck, ALL of them!) and then seeing what works. My current original one is becoming an embarrassment

    BTW, your setup looks very nice!
    Chris Winter
    E34 Dangriga 1988 #267

  11. #26
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
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    Clutch thoughts

    Just to keep some of the clutch and winch information in closer proximity, here is a link to our recent change over.
    https://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...s-amp-Clutches
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  12. #27
    Advanced Beginner bgary's Avatar
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    Adding mine, for whatever that's worth...

    https://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...b-(part-1-of-2)
    "Makana" (ex-Thelonious)
    1985 Ericson 32-III #604
    Makana blog: here

  13. #28
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    Clutches--apparently a gripping concern for us all.

    https://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...-Line-Clutches
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
    Table of Contents for Thelonious Blog here
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