Very interested in a 1971 E35 ll

I started to have the same problem in Sea Quest and only found it by taking those facia panels off.The problem hadn't progressed very far though or for very long so I was able to stabilize the wood with Git-Rot, then glass the whole area. Anyway, I still check both sides of the stbd bulkhead often. You can see a lot, actually, if you lie on your back and look up under the bookcase.
Anyway, if it ever comes to pass that I need to take stronger measures, I'll rebuild those parts of the bulkheads (P&S) with stainless too. I think that can be a rather attractive fix if done correctly.

cduer Ericson 35-2 Windshadow

My 35-2 is a 1972 that I sail on Lake Erie. I have sailed Windshadow since 1994. Lake Erie is a pretty challenging place to sail,ie. dead calms to 8-12 foot seas and I have always felt safe on my e-35. I would definately have the deck sounded for delamination especially if extra hardware was added over the years. Also check through hull valves as original valves were not marine type valves. If it says anything about the e-35 (or my sanity) I am about to undertake a major cabin top delamination project. Thought about selling but I love the boat and her sailing manners.
Good Luck,
cduer Windshadow hull #0229

Howard Keiper said:

You can see a lot, actually, if you lie on your back and look up under the bookcase.

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One of the better 'upgrades' that can be done is to replace the fasteners in the covering boards with wooden dowels. That allows quick removal of the boards for regular inspections. The dowels' heads can be faired to look like the factory plugs, maintaining the original look.

Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"

Been thinking of facing the top part of the bulkhead with a ss plate and bolting the upper bolt of the chain plate to it. Assuming its done correctly, any reason that won't work?

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Howard Keiper said:

Anyway, if it ever comes to pass that I need to take stronger measures, I'll rebuild those parts of the bulkheads (P&S) with stainless too. I think that can be a rather attractive fix if done correctly.

Click to expand...

I almost lost the mast on my E23 in 2001, the rot was hidden behind a backing plate I'd installed earlier to prevent compression in the bulckhead from the standard washers. Rather than replace the whole bulkhead I repaired it w/ stainless plates and a new plywood filler. You can see in the pics where the splice is.

Where do we Start ?

The E35II is a Great Sailing Machine and a step up to the Bigger boats with more Creature Comfort space and long distance capabilities.
The 74' was aquired in 94' and has undergone transformation to current
Marine Standards construction. The other BugaBoo is the Engine Mount
Ericson used a STEEL sled frame glassed in to the Bilge ? The entire frame sits in Bilge water and will eventually DISINTIGRATE to rust. The Engine Mount was completely removed down to the hull and replaced with fiberglass
stringers. The Next replacement will be the 12V Electrical Panel and Battery Switch. ALL 12V wiring in the area will be CORRODED and need to be replaced.
The Electrical Panel and Battery Switch was moved over to the Nav Station.
The Next next replacement will be the leaking Monel (steel) Fuel Tank. The Fuel Tank was replaced with a Welded Aluminum 40ga Tank in the same space
The PO filled the M4-30 crankcase with sea water and RUINED the Engine.
The Engine has been replaced with a Beta 902-25hp.
Don't get me wrong the boat is a wonder under sail and a joy to own :nerd:
Contact me any time to go over the Club you are getting in to.

Good Luck to you !

steven said:

Completely missed by the surveyor - though I don't see how - its right out in the open if you open the cabinet.

--Steve

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That makes me think you are talking about the forward chainplates for the lowermost inner shrouds rather than the main chainplates at the forward end of the main cabin. Repairing the forward section is an easier task, in that the load on the shroud is far lower, so reinforcement does not need to be quite so robust, and a stainless steel plate of appropriate size would work well. That said, if the plywood in the cabinet below the top bolt is is good shape, I would not worry about it too much if just one bolt is not taking any load.

For the main chainplates, three more thoughts:

Take the wooden covers off, and leave them off. It will make a huge difference to drying out part of the deck most likely to leak, and shiny chainplates are not ugly at all in the cabin.

If you do deck repair around the chainplates, increase the thickness of the deck around the chainplate to encourage rain water to flow somewhere else.

If you need new chainplates, as I did, rather than duplicate the originals with the double thickness at the top, have the new ones made uniform at the larger thickness - they will be cheaper that way as well as stronger.

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972

chaco said:

The Engine has been replaced with a Beta 902-25hp.
!

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To take this thread on yet another tangent.... how does that work for you? I have been thinking of installing that same engine. How much higher than the old A4 does the engine sit?

Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972

Beta Atomic 4 Replacement

The Beta 902 sits 4-6" higher than the Atomic 4 in the Mid Engine E35II. I turned the Engine Cover in to a Galley Bar at Counter hieght. Pics are in the Search Threads Love that Beta !

Dan

I can't find the pictures of your Beta!

What thread was it in?

John

Bulkhead repair

Any pictures and details of chainplate repair .. short of bulhead replacement that any of you have would be wonderful. Considering how many of us have degrees of the issues mentioned.
I need to address some water intrusion on my stbd. uppers and some beefing up of my aft lowers this summer. The glass work involved I'd be very interested in. This my be appr. for another thread.

Regards, Greg

E35II Beta Engine Cover

The E35II Mid Engine Cover for Beta 902 is shown in Search under "E35II-35II Mid-Engine Cover-E35II Engine Bar". Someone needs to teach me how to transfer these Threads to our Posts

E35II Exhaust System Installation

Here is the Thread to the Detailed look at the E35II Exhaust System redesign and installation per Vernalft Manual Specs. The original Ericson design is a disaster waiting to happen. Please note that your Exhaust Water outlet MUST drain by gravity DOWN to your Lift Station can. The original installation was routed DOWN in to the Bilge forming a P-Trap as it rose back up to the Lift Station inlet. Easy to FLOOD your Engine with water back through the Exhaust Outlet

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=4354&highlight=E35II

I enjoy my e35-2 more and more all the time. At first, I wouldn't have figured it to be an ideal boat for two of us and a dog to live on, but it has come to prove me wrong. It's given very few troubles over the past year and what troubles i've had are those that any boat would have (water system leaks, etc) and the layout of the ericson has made it easy to deal with these things. Most everything is accessible. I surely wouldn't have picked the atomic 4, but that is what we got, and it has been trouble free (amazing, i know) and so far I'm enjoying the heck out of it. I highly recommend this boat. Good luck.

chaco said:

The Beta 902 sits 4-6" higher than the Atomic 4 in the Mid Engine E35II. I turned the Engine Cover in to a Galley Bar at Counter hieght. Pics are in the Search Threads Love that Beta !

Click to expand...

I had been considering raising the seating around the whole table to accommodate a higher engine (I need to replace it anyway), but figured it could only be raised by up to 4" while still being comfortable for resting the legs, so it sounds as though sacrificing the seat over the engine will be necessary for the Beta 902.

While a bar is a great idea, a platform to mount a navigation screen viewable from the cockpit might also fit nicely there.

Thanks for the pictures, Gareth
Freyja E35 #241 1972

This might be it.

Thread found, maybe.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=5596&highlight=beta

Loren