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Holding Tank Hose replacement

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
I am about to try to replace the hose on my holding tank that runs to the manual pump. I have to open the inspection port to make sure the level is low enough. The head has not been used since pump out, but it has been rinsed a few times with a bit of water, Odorlos & vinegar. I hope the level is low & I don't need to manually pump any out into a bucket.:esad: I will use the heavy Shields type hose. I plan to soften the end in boiling water, apply lubricating jelly or dish detergent to the hose barb end & then try to muscle it on. I worry about getting it onto the barb end and making the tight radius turns without kinking the hose. I may heat it with the heat gun slightly, though I am leery of too much heat causing kinks, or worse. Any other words of wisdom?
 

chaco

Member III
Heat Gun

Apply Marine Silicon to the Barb and inside the Hose. Vaseline is not a sealant Heat the Hose end with a heat gun on low. Push em together down to the
the end of Barb :nerd:
This is the best/EASIEST method I have come up with with NO LEAKS :)
 

dcoyle

Member III
I have had good success by lubricating the barb with waterproof grease and heating the hose end with heat gun. If it gets heated too much the texture of hose permanetly changes, it stays soft so dont heat it to much. Dont heat the curves which may cause them to collapse. Are you going to take the plywood cover off the berth for better access? Mine is currently off while fuel lines get replaced. Good luck very tight quarters- your going to give up some skin!
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
If I put marine silicone on the barb end, will that provide enough lubrication to slide the hose on? I can't put a lubricant on with the silicone sealant, obviously. I see that the Nigel Calder book, which I have checked out of my local library, says to use sealant, but only on the hose barb side. He says if you put it inside the hose you risk pushing it into a lump which may block the hose.

Yes, the plywood has to come off to gain access to the side of the holding tank where the hoses connect and it is very, very tight.
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
I always preferred to heat the hose in boiling water. It heats very evenly and will not burn the hose like a heat gun will. You can periodically remove the hose from the water and it is still ok to touch to check for flexibility.
 

dcoyle

Member III
I have only used waterproof grease or vaseline to lubricate barb which will help hose slip on. I havent used a sealer, which will make future hose removal more difficult. The biggest impact on helping ease mounting the hose is to get it warm enough to stretch over the barb, but not so hot it distorts hose. When the hose is soft enough it will slide over barb without very much muscle.
I havent tried boiling water sounds good though - the hose will be somewhat slippery so you may need to dry it off before pushing it on barb. I wonder if you pull out holding tank and make those connections then feed hoses and tank back would make it any easier.
 

jmcpeak

Junior Viking
I had luck with just a hair dryer and dishsoap.

I removed the plywood to get access to the barbs, and enlarged the diameter of the hole between the head wall and tank.

Like dcoyle said, prepare to loose some skin, because you will.

Also, I liked a using a hair dryer on those tight radius turns because I knew I would not permanently damage the hose, As it was, the hair dryer got the hose hot enough to almost require gloves.

Anyways, that's how I got it done.
 

ianbeltrano

New Member
1974 E39 Holding tank location

Aloha All,

Does anyone know where the holding tank location of a 1974 E39?
There was no holding tank plumbing when I got the boat.

Thanks.
 

gadangit

Member III
Aloha All,

Does anyone know where the holding tank location of a 1974 E39?
There was no holding tank plumbing when I got the boat.

Thanks.

Hello, welcome to the forum! The most obvious location for the holding tank is under the v-berth on the port side directly forward of the bulkhead separating the two spaces. I don't think our boat had a holding tank either when we got it. At this point the world is your oyster, you can do what makes most sense to you.

We ended up gutting out the whole head and starting over. We went with a gravity holding tank hidden behind the hull cabinetry. Works great and we've eliminated most, if not all sources of odor as we have no valves or pumps.

Chris
 

Navman

Member III
I replaced my holding tank and all of the hoses and vents two weeks ago. I used the "Shields" sanitation hose. it is flexible and has and odor permeation guarantee. It costs $9.99 per foot but I thought it well worth it due to the above reasons. When I pulled the tank I was surprised as to how little "fallout" I had. The hose went on easier than any other install I have done and it went over the barbs and fittings with a modicum of effort. I ordered the hose on line from Defender. Good luck on a "stinker of a job".
 
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