Interior Teak Finish: Oil to Varnish

treilley

Sustaining Partner

• Dec 30, 2007

• #1

Interior Teak from oil to varnish

Well, the interior refinishing project has begun. We have been experimenting with different techniques to remove the lemon oil and lighten the teak.

To clean the wood, we used Captain John's Boat Bright teak cleaner(from WM). This removed a lot of dirt and oil. Next we bleached the wood with a bleach, laundry detergent and water mixture(1 Gallon of water, 1 cup bleach, 1 cup Tide).

Here is a photo of the engine compartment front panel to give a before and after example.

Next we need to figure out what finish to use. We want to end up with a clear satin finish and it would be nice if it was something fairly easy to apply, workable in lower temps and short recoat times. Anyone have any first hand experience with a product that would fit the bill?

 

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noproblemo2

Member III

• Dec 30, 2007

• #2

We used Varithane, fast set time as well as re-coat. Looks fantastic as well.

 

Guy Stevens

Moderator

Moderator

• Dec 31, 2007

• #3

Second the varithane

While not the hardest finish when kicked, it is easy to fix, fixable, and easy and forgiving to apply.

I shot 4 coats of it on Aiki's entire interior to finish the boat. I also used satin.

Guy

 

N

NateHanson

Sustaining Member

• Dec 31, 2007

• #4

You can't beat Epifanes, in my opinion, but I can't vouch for it's low-temp application. I've primarily used it in a shop environment.

 

treilley

Sustaining Partner

• Dec 31, 2007

• #5

Thanks for the replys guys but there are many different flavors of Varathane and Epifanes. Can you be more specific along with some brushing techniques? Water vs oil? 1 part vs 2 part?

I am going to go out and buy some of the Varathane diamond water base poly today and experiment with some foam brushes. I also have some good china and badger hair brushes but would rather test with foam first.

Thanks

 

Mindscape

Member III

• Dec 31, 2007

• #6

Shooting the varithane

Guy - does varithane or any of these products spray well?? What do you use to shoot them??

 

Guy Stevens

Moderator

Moderator

• Jan 1, 2008

• #7

My experience with varithane

I used the traditional, that is not the waterbased varithane, and shot it with a commercial spray gun (Old Binks) and a pressure pot. The pressure pot is so that you can paint the bottoms of everything like shelf bottoms, the tops of locker interiors, etc. My painter is unbelivable in skill, and it looks wonderful to me.

It shoots fine right out of the can....


Guy

 

C

chaco

Member III

• Jan 1, 2008

• #8

Satin TouchUp

On the 74' E35II I tried Oil Satin Verithane to do some TouchUp
Only to find that the Original Finish was DEFINATELY GLOSS.
I prefer the Satin Finish...but it showed up on the Gloss like a crummy
TouchUp job. The Gloss on Gloss looked GREAT :nerd:
The other question is to use Interior or Exterior Verithane
I use Oil Based Exterior because it is Super Tough and resists UV damage.
The supposed downside is that it yellows over time

Happy Woodwork

 

treilley

Sustaining Partner

• Apr 14, 2008

• #9

All of the teak is stripped, bleached and sanded. I finished installing trim yesterday and I started applying varnish to the parts in the basement(drawers, doors, etc). I still have to install bungs on the trim in the boat.
I noticed that the Varathane is very succeptable to runs and sags. I used a high quality foam brush and after 2 coats it looks great. My concern is when I go to apply on vertical surfaces in the boat. With the foam brush, I had to apply fairly thick to get coverage or brushing a lot would spread it thinner but I do not want to introduce bubbles. Any tips out there? Should I be using a high quality bristle brush instead? Should I tip with a dry brush afterwards?

Thanks

 

N

NateHanson

Sustaining Member

• Apr 15, 2008

• #10

I'd get a high quality bristle brush for your varnish. It'll cost you $15 or 20, and it'll last a lifetime. Just clean it thoroughly after each use.

If you're getting sags, the varnish might be going on too thick. Try adding some brushing thinner, or whatever they recommend on the can. Typically varnishes are too thick to brush right out of the can, and are easier to work with when cut by 10-25%, depending on the varnish.

 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR

Senior Moderator

Blogs Author

• Apr 21, 2008

• #11

Teak Finish-- gloss or not

Dumb Question time:
We have been using 3 to 4 coats of gloss for the on-going interior refinsh project.

I am told that there is a substance in the semi-gloss varnish that gives it the more opaque look, and that if you first build up the surface with semi-gloss, you cannot get a "clear" surface later if you change you mind.

So, if you eventually decide that you prefer the duller "semi-gloss" look, you can always apply a top layer of semi gosss varnish over your earlier clear "gloss" layers...

True?

(This seems intuitive to me, but as I get older, it is interesting just how many things I think that I know that are, actually, not true!)


Thanks,
Loren

 

Last edited: Mar 15, 2010

G

Gary Schroeder

Member II

• Apr 21, 2008

• #12

Loren,
Our '87 was factory-varnished - 2 coats of "#66 Rubbed" over 2 coats of gloss. It does not appear to have any opaque quality to it, just a matte surface like non-glare glass. I think the gloss went first because it had a better build-up rate, then two more coats insured no bright spots in the finish. We wash it every year with Murphy's and wipe down with spray Guardsman, and it still looks good after all these years. No affiliation with any products, just happy with the results.

 

N

NateHanson

Sustaining Member

• Apr 21, 2008

• #13

Loren Beach said:

Dumb Question time:
We have been using 3 to 4 coats of gloss for the on-going interior refinsh project.

I am told that there is a substance in the semi-gloss varnish that gives it the more opaque look, and that if you first build up the surface with semi-gloss, you cannot get a "clear" surface later if you change you mind.

Click to expand...

I'd check with the manufacturer's tech support. They're always helpful IME.

I don't know if what you are saying is generally true, but I think some companies have certain recommendations for build-coats and top coats. I think Epifanes recommends building with gloss and then top-coating with satin, doesn't it? (Or is it the other way around? I don't remember - so call the number on the can, and see what they recommend).

 

E

Emerald

Moderator

• Apr 21, 2008

• #14

Loren Beach said:

I am told that there is a substance in the semi-gloss varnish that gives it the more opaque look, and that if you first build up the surface with semi-gloss, you cannot get a "clear" surface later if you change you mind.

Click to expand...

Hi Loren,

I've always been told to do the build with gloss and then do your final with satin. The reasoning is that the grain will be blurred by many coast of satin, but if you do the gloss build, you maintain the appearance of the grain and other nice visual qualities of the wood.