I'm installing Andersen 40 ST winches port and starboard on the cabin top. The base on these winches is a higher profile than the Barients I removed. I'd like to raise the rope clutches about half an inch with some kind of base. I thought of using starboard but I'm concerned that starboard's inability to adhere with any caulk will make it likely to leak from the stresses usually applied to deck hardware. Any opinions on the use of starboard? I don't want to use teak or any other wood. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
Maine Sail
Member III
I would use..
If it were me I'd use Garolite G-10. It may take a couple of pieces laminated together to get the desired thickness but this stuff is great. You would need to then paint it or gelcoat it before sticking it to the deck with bedding compound though.
Garolite G-10 is laminated fiberglass boards or panels that are pre-made and have very tight tolerances! It's nice high end stuff and bedding compound will stick to it unlike Starboard..
You can purchase G-10 from McMaster-Carr..
If it were me I'd use Garolite G-10. It may take a couple of pieces laminated together to get the desired thickness but this stuff is great. You would need to then paint it or gelcoat it before sticking it to the deck with bedding compound though.
Garolite G-10 is laminated fiberglass boards or panels that are pre-made and have very tight tolerances! It's nice high end stuff and bedding compound will stick to it unlike Starboard..
You can purchase G-10 from McMaster-Carr..
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
Laura you can get G-10 in just about any thickness. It is a PITA to cut though. Use an abrasive blade in your jigsaw like the kind for cutting ceramic. Or bring me the G-10 and a clutch and we can make you a couple of these. Don't try cutting the stuff with a regular wood or metal blade it won't work.
Many teeth, patience...
I have made repeat cuts in the 1/4" and 3/8" G10 with my scroller saw and a "metal/plastics" blade...
It worked fine.
I used a stationary grinding wheel for edge chamfers, FWIW, too.
Take it slow. Yes you will dull up a $2. blade for a small project of about 3 to 4 linear feet total of cutting. It's like cutting any composite FRP material or aluminum, IMHO.
If you are not already a glasses wearer, wear your safety glasses -- but you knew that.
Advice= .01 worth.
Loren
ps: when I get this stuff from a local plastics retail/wholesale warehouse, they cut exactly to my (simple retangular) dimentions, too. They just need a day's notice to do this no-charge service. Saves me time and blades. AFAIK those guys are using a large carbon tipped circular saw.
I have made repeat cuts in the 1/4" and 3/8" G10 with my scroller saw and a "metal/plastics" blade...
It worked fine.
I used a stationary grinding wheel for edge chamfers, FWIW, too.
Take it slow. Yes you will dull up a $2. blade for a small project of about 3 to 4 linear feet total of cutting. It's like cutting any composite FRP material or aluminum, IMHO.
If you are not already a glasses wearer, wear your safety glasses -- but you knew that.
Advice= .01 worth.
Loren
ps: when I get this stuff from a local plastics retail/wholesale warehouse, they cut exactly to my (simple retangular) dimentions, too. They just need a day's notice to do this no-charge service. Saves me time and blades. AFAIK those guys are using a large carbon tipped circular saw.
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