Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Thread: E 27 Chain plates

  1. #16
    Contributing Member I
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    nor cal
    Posts
    10

    chain plate modification

    your boat looks great , i am about to do the same design with my chain plates . Did you have to adjust or rake your spreaders because of this? and also how difficult was it to drill though the original chainplate?

  2. #17
    Principal Partner bigd14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    585
    Blog Entries
    10
    http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexc...-has-done-this

    There is a horizontal strap that is buried in the hull that the upright chainplates are welded to. I made sure to drill through this strap to attach my chainplates. Drilling was difficult but I used a huge drill on slow speed. I drilled a pilot hole first then followed it with the right size bit. Use cutting fluid and lots of pressure. I had someone help me to apply massive pressure to the drill while I pulled the trigger. If you get a steady curl of material coming off the drill bit you are doing it right. Each bit will get you 2-3 holes then its useless.

    I had new spreaders made and calculated the length based on the formula in the Rigger's Apprentice. The quick and dirty formula is the distance between the spreader base and the upper shroud attachment point divided by 5. In reality the change in angle is very slight as you are moving the shrouds out only a couple inches.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by bigd14; 08-27-2017 at 09:19 PM.
    1984 Ericson 30+
    Hull #651

    Formerly 1972 Ericson 27

  3. #18
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    4,208
    Blog Entries
    78

    combining threads (housekeeping)

    DockRate
    http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexc...er-offline.png
    New Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    nor cal
    Posts
    3


    possible damaged chain plates

    So this is my first boat and I've heard a lot of things from alot of people. I have a 1978 27 foot ericson sloop. The previous owners may have been very smart because they put a steel lag bolt through the alluminum mast you have an idea of how bright they were. But my concerns is that the factory chain plates are only glassed in, which in my mind dosen't seem very strong. They has been slight leaking on one side and the spreader bracket cracked (I fixed this), but the deck plate has pulled off the deck little (probably from the deck delaminating somewhat, that is the problem, and I'm afraid it's all connected, but i could be wrong. Should to dig into them to see how much damage if any occurred, and if there is structural issues, i was planing on putting chain plates running vertically down the hull and through bolting it using individual 4 inch g10 circular backing plates . My issue that I've heard might be that i would need to adjust my spreader to compensate for pushing my chains further out. What should i do ? Im not planing to sail to hawaii with this thing but i would like to sail and not worry about demasting. The less work i do is kinda the better because this is just one of my problems but it is a major one. I was just thinking about if there isn't very much damage and the original stainless is still very much intact i could reclothe it using x mate and apply exposy to add strength and save myself a lot of work. Any thoughts on how strong the original design of this standing ridging is out of the gate to begin with ?
    Thanks


    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
    Table of Contents for Thelonious Blog here
    Videos: http://www.youtube.com/c/ChristianWilliamsYachting

  4. 08-29-2017, 12:37 PM

    Reason
    duplicate post

  5. #19
    Contributing Member I
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    nor cal
    Posts
    10

    chainplate template

    That was a very helpfull, sadly I have already made some considerable mistakes with my chainplates. I'll have to start again I think and be more aware with some of the issues that I could run into. I was wondering considering that we have the exact same boat(Erickson 27 sloop)and I basically want to do nearly the same thing you did , could you give me the template as fare as where the wholes where and how long you made the chain plate in order to match up with the original plate. It would be incredible helpfull to know that my template is close to spot on.

  6. #20
    Principal Partner bigd14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    585
    Blog Entries
    10
    Hi DockRate- I do not have the templates around, nor do I have the boat anymore to be able to measure them. But if I recall correctly, the chainplates were about 10 inches tall and 4 inches wide. I had to put all new rigging on the boat and new spreaders, so the rigging length changed. Since I had no way of calculating this I used screw-on lower wire terminals (Hayn Hi-Mods). For what it is worth, I believe that the horizontal straps that the chainplates are welded too are probably sound. The problem seems to be in the area of the welds or where the chainplate passes through the deck. When I did this job, I added big 1/2" G10 backing plates over the remains of the cutoff chainplate, and glassed that over to the hull side. Probably the G10 alone would have done the job.

    To see if your shrouds will reach the new chainplate locations (I assume the mast is upright on the boat and I assume that the chainplates will be moved to the exterior of the boat), I would first cut away some of the fiberglass that overlies the existing chainplates so you can locate the position of the horizontal strap, since you will want to tie into it. Then mock up a chainplate out of wood or cardboard. With the mast properly supported with a halyard, remove one of the shrouds from the existing chainplate (mark the threads with electrical tape first!), and see if there is enough room for it to reach the new outboard chainplate position. Then replace the shroud and tension back to your tape mark. Repeat for all six shrouds. This should give you a reasonable estimation of how tall your chainplates must be. Keep in mind the shorter the better, to eliminate flex. As for width, I made mine wide enough so that I could get one bolt through the horizontal strap on each side of the remains of the welded upright chainplate

    Also in your design, make sure you have enough meat between the edges of the chainplate and the hole for the rigging pins for the loads expected (there is a formula for this somewhere).

    I'll dig around for some photos.
    1984 Ericson 30+
    Hull #651

    Formerly 1972 Ericson 27

  7. #21
    Principal Partner bigd14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    585
    Blog Entries
    10

    Found it!

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Chainplate Scan.jpg 
Views:	43 
Size:	29.7 KB 
ID:	22698

    Scan of the chainplate plans
    1984 Ericson 30+
    Hull #651

    Formerly 1972 Ericson 27

  8. #22
    Principal Partner bigd14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    585
    Blog Entries
    10

    More pics

    I don't have any photos of the interior once the chainplates were installed and the G10 glassed over them. But here are some before photos. You can see the horizontal strap that is glassed into the side of the hull.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	27 CP2.jpg 
Views:	38 
Size:	58.1 KB 
ID:	22699Click image for larger version. 

Name:	27 CP 3.jpg 
Views:	34 
Size:	110.2 KB 
ID:	22700Click image for larger version. 

Name:	27 CP 4.jpg 
Views:	44 
Size:	66.9 KB 
ID:	22701
    1984 Ericson 30+
    Hull #651

    Formerly 1972 Ericson 27

  9. #23
    Contributing Partner lonokai's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Dana Point, California
    Posts
    127

    E27 Chainplates possible corrosion (fiberglass or plates)

    Resurrecting this 10-year old thread, I wonder if the corrosion on my E27 is something to be concerned about. This is just the starboard side, I'll check out the port once I get back to the boat.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5027.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	184.1 KB 
ID:	27344Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5026.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	166.0 KB 
ID:	27345Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_5018.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	148.4 KB 
ID:	27346
    Eric Gordon
    1975 Ericson 27, Yanmar 3GM30
    Dana Point, CA
    "Sea Star"
    Hull #721

  10. #24
    Curator of Broken Parts toddster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Oregon - The Gorge
    Posts
    1,690
    Blog Entries
    55
    Well, the first step (?) is figuring out whether thatís corrosion or not. I saw something like that and shrieked in horror. But the dark spots turned out to be splashes of resin from the original lay-up. Cleaning it up, it seems to be ok underneath. But... thatís just the parts that you can see.
    s/v arcturus E29 #134

Similar Threads

  1. Chain plates
    By Morgan Stinemetz in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 01-20-2010, 04:45 AM
  2. Leaking chain plates/stipped out holes
    By sv.islandgirl in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 07-24-2006, 11:31 AM
  3. chain plates ?
    By Phil MacFarlane in forum Design & Function
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 03-12-2004, 08:59 PM
  4. Blisters and Chain Plates
    By lauriefr in forum Design & Function
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-26-2004, 03:53 PM
  5. Backing plates?
    By Geoff Johnson in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-03-2003, 01:34 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •