Hauling my Universal 5416 this weekend

Split Coupler

The flange connection between the engine and the shaft looks like a split
flange held together by (4) bolts
Take the bolts out and split the flange with a chisel. Try the shaft removal
tool or just cut the flange out with a mini angle grinder. You will need a
perfectly SMOOTH and like new shaft to use a dripless seal. Any burrs will
ruin the new seal. Looks like there isn't enough room for a dripless.
The old shaft could be used for the original packing gland type seal.
Unfortunately many a shaft has been damaged by a PO grabbing on to them
with vise-grips

Happy Shaft Seal

The other way

With the motor out I figured it would just be easier to take apart the prop and go the other way, into the cabin.

Now I just have to be sure I put it back in before the motor ... that would be a real bummer.

Thanks for all your input. I will be posting more pics soon, I promise.

Also don"t forget to have it pressed apart. and it is worth the $ to have it mesured... the tolerances are surprisingly small

Pics of the progress

Just submitting an update.
The motor is going back together. Should complete this Thursday and plan to drop it back in Pegasus this weekend.

In addition to the pics I have also replaced the stuffing box, sawed and split the coupler off, and replaced that. All of which has been reinstalled. I also inspected the cutlass bearing but that was fine. No play so that is some good news. Must have been replaced shortly before I bought her.

Motor is in the boat!

Well the M-18 is back in the boat, on it's mounts and almost completely reinstalled. A couple of questions:

The raw water pump housing. I can't remember if there was a gasket between it and the block. I don't believe it needs one but am not sure.

I am replacing the amp gauge on the on the panel with a fuel gauge. On the harness there is a wire that I believe simply outputs data to that gauge. If not using the amp gauge, do I still need to attach that wire?

Thanks!

Would love to be able to get my M18 looking that nice! How did you physically remove the engine from the boat? Did it come out through the cabin? Did you have to use a hoist to lift it?

The info on removing the fuel tank was very helpful. I think we may have a small leak and was anticipating a painful experience with removal. Nice to know it was an easy job!

Couple more questions: I'm looking at possibly installing a PSS dripless shaft seal in my E30+, what was the diameter of your prop shaft and the diameter of the outside of your shaft log? And where did you get your new shaft coupling?

Thanks!

Thanks!

I used the mainsheet blocks (4:1), 200 ft. of line (boat is up on stands and needed the length to make it to the ground), tied to a loop on the boom so I could slide the motor fore and aft, and pulled it right through the companionway. Pulled it myself (eager and stupid), not recommended. Reinstalled with a second set of hands (required if you want it to land on the motor mounts).

If I recall correctly the shaft was 1" and the shaft log was 1.5" OD. I would still check your own with a caliper though. There is nothing on the boat that dictates those sizes. Who knows if the PO may have changed it or the factory used a different set up. Stranger things have happened.

Check to be sure you have enough space for it. It is a little tight down there. I didn't end up going with the dripless for a couple of reasons:

-Concerned about size/enough clearance for it to fit.
-$$$$$
-Shaft needs to be in really good shape to make a good seal I have heard from many. Many suggest replacing the shaft all together. While my shaft is stainless and is in pretty good shape it is not perfect.
-The traditional stuffing box is tried and true, set up properly it lets minimal water in.

Outside of that the advantages are great. Good luck!