Leaky genoa track--how to fix?

Isn't it funny how one project turns into another...

Since the orginal foam backed hull liner in the quarterberth had degraded and was emitting an orange dust, I decided to replace it with new foam backed vinyl (after much deliberation about what material to use). So I ordered enough for the job, and then scrubbed the surface free of all the nasty 35 year old foam. When I removed a piece of teak trim, I noticed some water intrusion in the upper part of the berth where the stanchions are through bolted, so I rebedded them too.

The vinyl arrived and since a powerful storm did as well, I had to delay the installation of the new material. We had 50+ knot winds at the marina, and I went down to check on the boat during the worst part of the storm on Friday--while my boat was doing fine (I had taken the sails off, put out extra bumpers, tarped the hatch and companionway, etc, many boat owners had not done anything to prepare their boats and the marina was full of boats "ghost sailing" in their slips with partially deployed headsails). I did notice that I had water dipping into the outboard part of the quarterberth through the holes that the screws for the overhead teak trim piece attaches to.

So there's no way I want to put new vinyl until I fix the leaks. Since I rebeded the stanchions before the storm, I suspect that the genoa track that runs along the toe rail is leaking.

How should I approach fixing the track? Remove and rebed it--or is this anoth car of worms? Am I better off removing one screw at a time, and forcing some sealant into each hole, let it set up, and then re-install each screw?

Prior Thread

Chris, There's a prior "thread" about the same thing further down in Maintenance, by "trummp" Same 32? Seems they are "bolts"

Thanks Steve for the heads up on the previous discussion. I read the thread and I don't want to tackle this one! Grinding tabbing in such a tight spot sounds like a headache, given that the leak is really really small.

I think I will try to seal the track and screws from the outside without removing them. Permatex makes a flowable silicone windshield sealant. As a first step I will tape up the rail track, run a bead around all seams, and see if that works out. If it doesn't, I may use a material that is breathable and not foam-backed to line the hull--that way, I wan't get a mildew farm back there.

Sealing minute leaks.

Chris, Before opting for the Permatex silicone, consider trying Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure (real deal) available at any West Marine. This stuff is great for just such applications and if applied around the edge of the screw heads, might not even need masking adjacent locations. It's like acetone in consistency, flows like crazy into the smallest of cracks and when deprived of oxygen, sets up and seals the crack. In some cases an additional application or two might be required. But I have to say that I've used it aboard and the darned stuff just plain works and most importantly, it dries clear. Regards, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA

I second Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure! I used it on my leaking fixed portlight that has partially succumbed to corrosion. No more leaks! All last season with lots of sailing and not a drop. I probably put 15-20 applications on in a period of 3 days. Stuff works very well. RT

Thanks for the product recommendation. I'll give it a try once things dry out around here.

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure

They have a very informative web site: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/capt.html

Some Disassembly Req'd.!

I've been using Cap't Tolleys Creepy Stuff for awhile and have a ?
Does anyone have any "feed-back" on whether or not it affects disassembly down-the-road, it is epoxy after all.

Wrong!

Steve - I can't answer your question, but I did spend enough time on their site to learn that it is not an epoxy.

I have used Capt'n Tolley's stuff for years and have never had a problem getting it off, even after it has dried/cured. It becomes hardened but can still be scraped off without a problem. I have found it excellent for very small hairline cracks, also for sealing windows (even preventatively), adding a bit in a screwhole to give the screw better grip (though not where really strong adhesion was needed, just to snug it up a bit), and have found this stuff very useful in general. I have no interest/conflict of interest, etc.
Frank.

Going crazy here...

So I have done my best to fix leaks that are getting into the deck core in the outboard side of the quarterberth ceiling: rebedded the stanchions and put a bead of permatex along the genoa track. Still, water is coming in and keeping the hull damp where I want to put down new foam-backed vinyl.

I have noticed that I get water in the combing boxes during big rains, and that the water has no where to drain out, so this may be the cause. Has anyone modified the combing boxes so that they drain?

I may just keep the foam backed-vinyl for the vee berth and use some sort of breathable indoor-outdoor carpeting as a hull liner, but I reall want to fix this leak!

I have the same coaming boxes in my '69 E32. In my case the accumulation of water with nowhere to go rotted out the plywood bottom of the boxes. Also, the standing water tended to get a little green and cold--qualities that were quickly noted by the nearest innocent bysitter as the boat heeled for the first time underway. Refreshing!

My initial solution to this was to cut pieces of wood that covered the holes and were held in place by a piston made of a plastic toilet-paper-holder-piston attached to the inside of the cover. Yes, that's right, a toilet-paper-holder-piston. I installed triangle wedges where the toilet-paper-roll-dispenser HOLDER would normally be. By compressing the piston, the wedges would press on the inside of the fore and aft sides of the coaming box hole and pinch the wood in place, preventing leaks.

What, that isn't in your standard toolkit?

Yeah, you're right. This was a ridiculous piece of ineffective overengineering but it did work for the two weeks until the pistons bent.

The second solution was to make two-piece covers out of Starboard with one wide, short vertical piece covering the hole, and a small horizontal piece screwed to the top of it holding the cover up on the lip of the coaming itself. Two eyestraps are mounted parallel to the waterline on the upper flange. A little piece of shock cord tied on either end to the eyestraps wraps around the cleats.

The boxes are bone-dry all year.