best bottom paint

Seems like there are as many opinions about bottom paints as there are choices. Micron? Trinidad? Which is holds up best against the barnacle rife waters of Florida? I want blue, she wants red and contends red has better anti-fouling properties. Does color make any difference?
Also, Back when I was installing my Pioneer 8 track player and Jensen Tri-axles in my '69 Camaro so's I could listen to the new "Spooky Tooth" album, I used electrical tape on the wire splices.. I suspect these days there, is a better way to insure good connections in my stereo (and other connections too) on the boat (Dave Mathews album this time..). What's the best way to connect wires ?
Mike
I would just like to say the bottom is red now and I do not think we need to take all the way down. I hate it when you see the paint start to go and their are lots of diffenant color showing.
Thank you, She (the anchor and chain)

It is fairly common practice to put a different coat of antifouling paint over the last one, so that you can see when it's wearing off. For example, if your current bottom is red, you could put blue or black over it, and as the red begins to show through, you know it's time to re-do it.

Also, you could put a bit more (ie. a second layer/coat) over areas that are likely to wear faster--like at the waterline, at the bow and front of the keel.

I have had really good success with Trinidad SR, but recently read a study that said that Micron 66 was equally as good--both rated better than most others. I have never heard that there is a difference between colours in terms of antifouling capabilities. Rather, I think the toughest decision is whether to go with the hard paints or the soft/ablative sloughing paints. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. And you will need to ensure compatability with your existing paint and that the existing paint isn't flaking, or the new paint won't adhere properly.

For electrical connections, I understand that good quality crimping is the way to go. There have been debates about whether soldering is better, but most people think that a solder joint is too brittle to withstand the vibrations on a boat. And of course, shrink wrap it to avoid moisture/corrosion.

Good luck, and hope that helps.

Frank.

I'm in the same boat, pardon the pun, when it comes to bottom paints. I am planning on painting this coming fall, and think I will be using trinidad, but that is subject to change.

As far as wiring is concerned, it all depends. For items which are not likely to see any water, I typically use butt splices which are pretty cheap at Lowes. They have splices with heat shrink insulation already in place. However, I have been working with a marine mechanic for the past two years, and have seen far too many crimps which rotted away because water found its way in. I have also seen them loosen, and fall off after time. So for connections which are going to be sensitive to any resistance due to poor connection or corrosion, or are likely to be exposed to water, I prefer to solder, then heatshrink, and then, for good measure, I apply "liquid electric tape." A little trick I have learned for wires which are pretty badly corroded, and won't take solder, is to use Tarn-X and a wire brush.

Many Thanks

FWIW, I usually crimp and then sweat solder into the connection. I've never had a problem with a connection breaking. I had not heard of liquid electrical tape, but I really like that idea. I'm going to get some.

Thanks,
Bob

Out here around Los Angeles a common paint is Proline or Trinadad.

Proline I have used and get about five years out of it.

It's a Water-based, Ablative paint which continuously sheds it's outer layer to release toxicant to prevent growth.

It is advertised that the surface smooths with boat use; decreases drag & fuel consumption etc.

All I know is that is easy to work with and fairly priced

John

We went with Trinidad. It wasn't the first choice, but it was the first choice of paints available and able to be sold in California. My first choice was Interlux VC Offshore, but it can't be sold in CA. Then I went with Trinidad. Trinidad is a hard paint -- because we race I liked that we were able to wet sand and burnish the bottom to a glass-like smoothness. More than 2 years after the job was done, it is still working ... a sponge on the waterline, a quick brush of the rudder and our monthly dive service is all we need to keep it fresh and fast.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32-2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA

Wiring connections

I am totally stripping my wiring on a newly acquired E35II. I have an advantage (most days) of teaching high school students about electronics. We also build robots for competitions and boats for a solar regatta. Standard practice is to solder tip for minimize electrolysis (which add to resistance), crimping to prevent being pulled apart, and shrink wrap for water repellent. I insist in small loops for extra wire in case (120 pound robots slamming into each other makes welds break) and believe it or not students wire things wrong sometimes and the loop allows the crimp to be cut out and not be to short.

ml