LPU cost
Until Dan checks in again, I can at least give a current bid (10-08) from a top-rated local shipwright for an LPU refinish of our 34 footer.
This assumes that the owners do all the deck hardware removal and re-installation...
Hull = $250/foot. Deck = $550/foot.
This is for a job that will easily pass the "one foot test." In the case of this particular craftsman, this is the only level of work that he will agree to do, and currently his waiting list for boat restorations is at two years. Yeah, he's that good.
This gives you a ball park bid figure. Then you have to add several hundred $ for local transportation to and from his shop, which is not on the water.
You should, no matter who does the work, also factor in an added cost for "Mission Creep." That's for the additional projects that you WILL uncover a need to do while other parts of the boat are removed and the opportunity and access is the best it probably will ever be. This is actually the hardest part of any project to budget for, by far.
I have seen several very successful restorations and repaints from this shop and they really do look That Good! Just plan on keeping and actively using your boat a minimum of another decade to start to amortize out that expense. You will get back some of the money someday when you sell, but not all of it.
Cheers,
Loren
ps: a good LPU finish will last about 20 years, give or take.
Until Dan checks in again, I can at least give a current bid (10-08) from a top-rated local shipwright for an LPU refinish of our 34 footer.
This assumes that the owners do all the deck hardware removal and re-installation...
Hull = $250/foot. Deck = $550/foot.
This is for a job that will easily pass the "one foot test." In the case of this particular craftsman, this is the only level of work that he will agree to do, and currently his waiting list for boat restorations is at two years. Yeah, he's that good.
This gives you a ball park bid figure. Then you have to add several hundred $ for local transportation to and from his shop, which is not on the water.
You should, no matter who does the work, also factor in an added cost for "Mission Creep." That's for the additional projects that you WILL uncover a need to do while other parts of the boat are removed and the opportunity and access is the best it probably will ever be. This is actually the hardest part of any project to budget for, by far.
I have seen several very successful restorations and repaints from this shop and they really do look That Good! Just plan on keeping and actively using your boat a minimum of another decade to start to amortize out that expense. You will get back some of the money someday when you sell, but not all of it.
Cheers,
Loren
ps: a good LPU finish will last about 20 years, give or take.
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CaptDan
Member III
Loren's quote is fairly close. I was fortune to get a 25% discount off the book rate, which in 2005 was around $225 ft if memory serves. I opted to have the hull done only; the deck/cabin was still okay in my opinion.
I can't speak to the longevity of Awlgrip; it's been over three years and the paint still looks good. It's VERY tough stuff; the hull weathered some hits against the harbor's fixed piers during a storm in 2006, and there was virtually no permanent scarring. I've read claims that with maintanence, professionally applied LP coatings can last 10-20 years.
The biggest motivation for the paint job was a large, oval gelcoat color mismatch on the starboard side - a result of a some repair that hadn't cosmetically aged well. I'd hoped to be able to spot-fix it for a cheap, but I became convinced that it was just throwing good money after bad. At the same time, I didn't want to do a low grade (or do-it-yourself) enamel coating, and have to face redoing it in five years.
In retrospect, I'm glad I had the job done.
Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"
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CaptDan
Member III
In a 'burb' just outside Seattle, WA. The Awlgrip was done at Seaview East Boatyard in Ballard, located on the western part of the Lake Washington Ship Canal.
Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"