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E32 Wiring diagrams

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
I'm starting to re-wire the boat and for my own understanding needed to combine the various hull, engine, and mod wiring diagrams. The first one is combining bits from the owners manual that you should already have, it's just laid out cohesively, left to right.
E32%2012VDC%20OEM-M.jpg

The 3 letter identifiers added to each of the circuit breaker labels at the right correspond to separate pages where those circuits go. There's an example in the lower left corner with arrows that tell the corresponding place or other page to jump to.

The next one has the modifications suggested by MaineSail and some others.

E32%2012VDC%20w_mods-M.jpg

I'd be happy to send pdf versions which are a LOT more legible than these jpgs, just pm me your email. A lot of it should be common to the other models, especially the 38.

I'll get to the AC and other pages eventually.
 
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Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
Wow, now this is a nice addition to the "literature". PM incoming.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Glad to give back.
Everybody who asked should have an email by now. Let me know if not received.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Hi Bob,
Thanks for sending this so quickly! The sharing of info and expertise on this forum is just the best! :egrin:

Frank
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Here's the OEM circuit for the 110 VAC. I've already already sent it to everybody who asked for the DC circuits, EXCEPT for those who forgot to tell me what email to send the pdfs to. Again, if anybody wants a clear pdf copy, just pm me your email address.

This may be the last I'll post, as the rest of the diagrams for lights and such will be pretty unique to my boat.

Bob

110%20VAC-M.jpg
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
As someone who likes to nerd about this stuff (and has the same boat) I'd love to see the diagrams for whatever you come up with :) Might inspire better ideas than I'm capable of for myself, too!
 

Parrothead

Member III
A word of caution. The OEM drawing presented by tinkicker is out of current ABYC compliance in at least one aspect, the requirement that both current carrying conductors are interrupted by the main circuit breaker. I would not expect later technologies and products to be included such as ELCI protection but the requirement I've mentioned has been in place for decades.

The main is a two pole breaker, one for line, one for neutral (white).
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Good eye!

I very much agree with Parrothead and will add that there are other things also not to ABYC, such as the distance from the shore plug to the breaker. As stated on the drawing is that it is how Ericson (the OEM) had it on the original drawing. When I saw this last summer I actually pulled the panel to confirm it was that way in the boat. The 30A breakers are at the right in this photo and you can see the red jumper.
20190519_152100-X2.jpg

There were other issues with these old boats, such as having no GFCI.

Again, the mods to my boat will be unique to it and this was addressed in June when replacing the burnt old shore plug with a SmartPlug. I added a water tight box with a properly wired breaker and a 110 VAC GFCI outlet. As Parrothead notes, the black and white each have a dedicated c/b. My working diagram is below with the SmartPlug as the oval at the left.
("Farthest allowed" was a note to myself to remember to cut that wire long.)
20190602_212059-X2.jpg

The bigger paper was an early concept for where some of the new new lights would go. That all is still in process.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Keep in mind that "standards" change, over the years and decades.
Our '88 was factory wired with all GFI-protected outlets for the AC circuit. Our shore power inlet, OTOH, was about a foot too far from the (proper) two pole breaker above the main panel.
When I upgraded the shore power inlet to a new little enclosure with a breaker right behind it, and ran new 'boat cable' to the main panel I did keep the original breaker with its reverse-polarity light scheme.

Pix in this thread:
https://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?3509-Shore-Power-upgrade&referrerid=28
 
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Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
As stated on the drawing is that it is how Ericson (the OEM) had it on the original drawing.

I noticed the main breaker switching only the hot line and thinking Tin Kicker screwed up I went to the owner's manual and saw that he was correct. Besides that :), what I find strange is that Ericson used the two pole breaker. That is not something that manufacturers do - use two breakers when one is adequate.

Being curious I looked at the manual for the E-35III and found that they used a single pole breaker. The E-26III like the E-32III used the two pole breaker switching one line. The later manuals, like my E-34, didn't include the wiring diagrams. I did this research before I saw that Parrothead had already posted on this and Tin Kicker had responded.

I suspect that after the E-35III the code changed and the engineer told the designer to put in a two pole main breakers on future panels. He did, but didn't realize he had to switch both lines. I think this is the first time I've blamed a designer since I retired. :cool:

I assume my boat is wired with both lines switched, but I don't remember ever looking at it. I think I'll wait for the snow to melt before I check it out. Supersailor???

Nice job TK.
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
As someone who likes to nerd about this stuff (and has the same boat) I'd love to see the diagrams for whatever you come up with :) Might inspire better ideas than I'm capable of for myself, too!

Here you go, Geoff -

This is the current plan and part of it is already in but it's still not final while I'm working on cabin lights and other DC electrics. In the upper left is the box I installed in June for the shore plug and I borrowed that idea from somebody else here.

110%20VAC%20modified-M.jpg

The reason for the 400W pure sine inverter from my truck will be for laptops and small loads. Big inverters have a lot of inefficiency and are only needed for heavy loads like the micro, induction cook plate, and space heater. The 3000W pure sine inverter is way more than what is needed but I just happen to already own one one of those too. It has an off switch not shown.

There are a couple of contactors so when the charger is on (from shore power), the cooktop and oven will be disabled to prevent a potential overload on the wiring. When the inverters have power the charger will be disabled.

Lithium batteries have been around now for almost 30 years and I've been working with systems since January 2013 so know them fairly well. Currently am watching for a deal on 300-400 Ah of used batteries with enough life left and those will go in the base of the Nav station where there is currently the tilt-out. The reason for this big of a bank is really to keep the C (discharge) rate down when using the heavy load items from battery power.

The start battery has a 50W solar panel to go on the companionway cover when I get the MPPT. I've got 2 175W panels in the shed for the house battery and also need an MPPT for those. They will go on a bimini frame and the 50W may move there too.

It just takes time, right?
:nerd:
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
After what's been found poking around in my boat the following are updates to the OEM schematic and where mine is going:

OEM
12V%20OEM%2020200425-X4.jpg


Mods going into my boat. It is in process, so regard the following as experimental for now.

12V%20mod%2020200425-X4.jpg
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
After what's been found poking around in my boat the following are updates to the OEM schematic and where mine is going:

OEM
12V%20OEM%2020200425-X4.jpg


Mods going into my boat. It is in process, so regard the following as experimental for now.

12V%20mod%2020200425-X4.jpg
Tin Kicker you are showing a 30 amp fuse at the red/yellow exciter wire to the solenoid...I initially used a 20 amp which immediately blew...now a 25 amp, no problem but may replace with a 30 amp. per your diagram. Great presentation by the way!!! Lot of talented work went into that diagram....!
 

Tin Kicker

Sustaining Member
Moderator
Tex -

Thanks for pointing that out, as it's a mistake on my part and example of some of the OEM illustrations having issues. The OEM shows a 20A fuse on a 16 AWG wire (first illustration), when the wire should have no more than 10A (2nd illustration). Bottom line is that it's a mistake that I missed and carried into my schematic.
OEM%20Engine%20diagram-X4.jpg

DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg


To use a 25A fuse like you are should have at least a 12 ga wire, but the bigger issue about why you needed a 25A fuse puzzled me. The coil side of most starter motors for many years have needed less than 10A, so I wagged that into sizing the coil circuit. What your post made me remember and look into is that these are the old style starters designed when cars had tail fins and big V-8s. They only need less than 10A to hold the coil BUT can require 30A+ because they have a separate internal winding to initially pull the solenoid into engagement. Planning for 30A means increasing to 10 AWG and that circuit goes through the cockpit so it's a lot of heavy wire.

Ken had a really solid idea about separating the instruments into their own circuit from the pumps, glow plugs, and start solenoid. Great idea to separate this high amperage stuff from the instruments for several reasons, including elimination of potential flickering lights and burn-out from transients when heavy current is applied and then separated. I'm going to incorporate that when I get to revising my MOD schematic again. Right now RagTimes' pumps are wired to the new schematic and much of the instruments are still OEM so the physical change won't involve much.
 

1911tex

Sustaining Member
Tex -

Thanks for pointing that out, as it's a mistake on my part and example of some of the OEM illustrations having issues. The OEM shows a 20A fuse on a 16 AWG wire (first illustration), when the wire should have no more than 10A (2nd illustration). Bottom line is that it's a mistake that I missed and carried into my schematic.
OEM%20Engine%20diagram-X4.jpg

DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg


To use a 25A fuse like you are should have at least a 12 ga wire, but the bigger issue about why you needed a 25A fuse puzzled me. The coil side of most starter motors for many years have needed less than 10A, so I wagged that into sizing the coil circuit. What your post made me remember and look into is that these are the old style starters designed when cars had tail fins and big V-8s. They only need less than 10A to hold the coil BUT can require 30A+ because they have a separate internal winding to initially pull the solenoid into engagement. Planning for 30A means increasing to 10 AWG and that circuit goes through the cockpit so it's a lot of heavy wire.

Ken had a really solid idea about separating the instruments into their own circuit from the pumps, glow plugs, and start solenoid. Great idea to separate this high amperage stuff from the instruments for several reasons, including elimination of potential flickering lights and burn-out from transients when heavy current is applied and then separated. I'm going to incorporate that when I get to revising my MOD schematic again. Right now RagTimes' pumps are wired to the new schematic and much of the instruments are still OEM so the physical change won't involve much.
Confession here Tin Kicker....I have a new, lighter, smaller modern starter that came with solenoid attached, purchased from a well known old generator/alternator repair shop in Austin. Instant swap. They said the new one (Item #103-159N, description: new MITS STR Kubota) is many, many times more efficient than the OEM. In fact, the desk guy laughed when he told me to overhaul the old obsolete starter ($39) and put on a new solenoid ($79) would cost almost the same as new one ($116) which included the solenoid from the factory. He also said he would guarantee the new one would outlast the rebuilt one, many times over. He would not keep the old one...I would have to dump it in the bin outside. Maybe that is why the 20 amp blew and 25 amp is holding its own? Still using the old red/yellow wire going to the new solenoid...I guess that is the 16 awg wire in your diagram.
 
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