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E35-2 handrail removal

steven

Sustaining Member
I think there has been a least one post on this but I can't find it.

On the E35-2, port handrails on cabin top: how are the handrail screws secured at the bottom inside the headliner?
Headliner is plastic. Hope I don't have to make 10-ish holes in it to get to the end of the screws.

thanks

--Steve
 

frick

Member III
handrails on my e 29 1971a

I think there has been a least one post on this but I can't find it.

On the E35-2, port handrails on cabin top: how are the handrail screws secured at the bottom inside the headliner?
Headliner is plastic. Hope I don't have to make 10-ish holes in it to get to the end of the screws.

thanks

--Steve


Steve,
My 1971 E29 handrails have glassed in nuts in the fiberglass.
If you boat has rail on the cabin then Erison has the bolt through the deck into the inside rails.

I had two but rust out, so I drilled them out. Drilled a new hole thought the cabicabine liner.
I then put a little dUCT tape over the hole in the cabin top, the poured in 5 minute epoxy.
After it was cured... I waited a hour, Then drilled out hole for a new bolt hole.
I the through bolted the rail, and finished off the I cabin by placing nice acorn nuts on the bolts.

RickRick
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Acorn nuts are liable to put your skull into the ER, at some point in time.
Plan B, perhaps: Carefully over-drill after the epoxy plug cures and put in flush "barrel nuts" instead. They are available in SS or chromed brass. I used the SS ones for the large hinge bolts when I replaced our fore hatch.
 
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steven

Sustaining Member
Rick, thanks. I'll try it this weekend.

Loren, Have not used barrel nuts before and having trouble visualizing "flush". Is this what you are referring to ?


--Steve
2Q==
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
Acorn nuts are liable to put your skull into the ER, at some point in time.
Plan B, perhaps: Carefully overiiuiy-drill after the epoxy plug cures and put in flush "barrel nuts" instead. They are available in SS or chromed brass. I used the SS ones for the large hinge bolts when I replaced our fore hatch.

Loren (as usual) is correct. Acorn trim nuts are rounded but still protrude enough to inflict pain and injury if/when bouncing around below in rough weather. On our 32-II (similar build methods to your 35), we opted to oversize the hand rail holes, back fill with solid epoxy resin and then re-drill the holes all the way through into the cabin liner. We bought SS flanged phillips head barrel nuts that have a smooth and rounded finish for appearances and knoggin knocking safety.

Photo isn’t the best. It’s of the underside mounting of our Spinlocks. I’ll get a better photo for you later. (PIA now to set the ladder up, crawl thru the winter cover and all.)
 

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Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
On our 1976 E35 MkII, the handrails below oppose the bases of the handrails on deck. One must remove the bungs on the deck and below in each handrail to access the screw head and the nut.
 

steven

Sustaining Member
Glenn,

I have opposing rails inside the cabin only on the starb side.

On the port side, the rails are only outside.
Is it the same on yours ?

I am also a 1976 (hull #446).

--Steve
 

Glenn McCarthy

Glenn McCarthy
Ours are opposing both Starboard and Port, the port ones continue opposing into the head too.

25 years ago we had a 1973 C&C 43 and removed the handrails which were similar to end leaks forever. We found we didn't need them on the deck which made for better sitting. Below there was a secondary handrail at the deck knuckle that worked just as well as the one on the ceiling that was now gone.

I'd sure like to figure out how to get rid of the handrails and leaks on this boat, but we need the handrails on the ceiling for safety.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
OK, but everyone should think this through before removing a standard and sometimes critical tradition of yacht design.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I agree with Christian that removing cabin top handrails is questionable. Firstly, holding onto lifelines alone, even with two hands could throw you off balance if a wave hits, more so than if you have one hand on the lifeline and the other on the handrail. Secondly, removing the handrails will leave unsightly marks on the cabin top requiring gelcoat matching. Thirdly, when selling, a future buyer may wonder what other unseamanlike changes have been made to the boat and offer less or walk away.
Just some thoughts, without intending to be too judgemental. :confused:
Frank
 

garryh

Member III
totally agree.. lifelines are not LIFE lines. I consider them more a visual reference and hand guide while walking along the decks. They are not constructed for serious shock loads and could easily fail at the worst possible moment. This is what jacklines attached to properly secured fore and aft padeyes are for.
And- the boat would just look weird without the cabin top handrails
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Now garryh is getting to the heart of the matter ;-)

>And- the boat would just look weird without the cabin top handrails
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
When racing a half tonner IOR, the skipper emerged from the cabin just as a large wave hit broadside while tight reaching with a triradial. He was catapulted over to the leeward lifeline where he stopped due to catching the lifeline with his jaw. If he had been slightly higher, we would have been overboard. Those lifelines are stronger than you might think. We started to withdraw but he insisted we continue. We won but his face swelled to about twice it's size. He was a true racer.
 
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