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Thread: Looking for fiberglass repair shop for hatch repair

  1. #1

    Looking for fiberglass repair shop for hatch repair

    Hi all:
    Can anyone suggest a shop in the Annapolis-Edgewater area that can repair a badly rotted anchor deck hatch? It's a small deck hatch on a 1990 Ericson 28. The wood core has rotted but the top non skid seems intact. I'm looking for someone to grind out the wood, replace it, and reglass the bottom of the hatch. I can take the hatch off and bring it to the right shop.

    On a related topic, I need to in unclog the anchor locker drain -- the hatch debris must be inside it. But my boat doesn't have access to the drain tube from the v berth. Just a lovely teak bulkhead at the bottom end that I'd hate to saw into. Any advice? There are older threads on EyO that show access plates but my boat doesn't have one.

    Many thanks in advance for your help!

    Josh

  2. #2
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    Hmmm. I'd probably ask a local boatyard for a recommendation.

    First thing to try on the drain tube is a coat hanger wire. Some boats have a copper tube, most have a short hose. A jet of hose water might even work, if the clog is just glop.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams View Post
    Hmmm. I'd probably ask a local boatyard for a recommendation.

    First thing to try on the drain tube is a coat hanger wire. Some boats have a copper tube, most have a short hose. A jet of hose water might even work, if the clog is just glop.

    Thanks Christian. I've tried the coat hanger trick. There is an obstruction it can't get past. That's probably the clog. I didn't a chip of wood or gelcoat wedged into the tube.

  4. #4
    Principal Partner Bolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfischman View Post
    Hi all:
    Can anyone suggest a shop in the Annapolis-Edgewater area that can repair a badly rotted anchor deck hatch? It's a small deck hatch on a 1990 Ericson 28. The wood core has rotted but the top non skid seems intact. I'm looking for someone to grind out the wood, replace it, and reglass the bottom of the hatch. I can take the hatch off and bring it to the right shop.

    On a related topic, I need to in unclog the anchor locker drain -- the hatch debris must be inside it. But my boat doesn't have access to the drain tube from the v berth. Just a lovely teak bulkhead at the bottom end that I'd hate to saw into. Any advice? There are older threads on EyO that show access plates but my boat doesn't have one.

    Many thanks in advance for your help!

    Josh
    Josh, Did you consider doing the work yourself? I'm not a fiberglass master at all but I rebuilt the rotted anchor locker door on my E32-3 years ago and even improved on the design but adding additional reinforcing. I also re-built a rudder on my first big boat, a Hunter 285. I don't have photos of the finished door but I can take some to share with you when I go to the boat next weekend. It wasn't really that hard of a project especially if the top non-skid is still intact. A good winter project. If I didn't have too many projects on my plate now I'd do it for you! As for the clogged drain have you tried using a coat hanger from the drain up, not just the anchor locker down?
    Bob Skalkowski
    1987 E32 III (#722) - "Vesper"

  5. #5

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by Bolo View Post
    Josh, Did you consider doing the work yourself? I'm not a fiberglass master at all but I rebuilt the rotted anchor locker door on my E32-3 years ago and even improved on the design but adding additional reinforcing. I also re-built a rudder on my first big boat, a Hunter 285. I don't have photos of the finished door but I can take some to share with you when I go to the boat next weekend. It wasn't really that hard of a project especially if the top non-skid is still intact. A good winter project. If I didn't have too many projects on my plate now I'd do it for you! As for the clogged drain have you tried using a coat hanger from the drain up, not just the anchor locker down?
    I thought about DIY, Bob. But I don't have a home workshop, and honestly I worry I would slice up the whole thing with an angle grinder.

  6. #6
    Principal Partner Bolo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfischman View Post
    I thought about DIY, Bob. But I don't have a home workshop, and honestly I worry I would slice up the whole thing with an angle grinder.
    I understand. I have a small one car garage but you'd be amazed how much I can do in it. The only recommendation I can make is Diversified Marine ( http://www.diversifiedmarineservices.com ) There a saying, from a Client Eastwood movie that goes something like, "Every man has go to know his limitations". Well, there have been a few jobs on the boat that needed a pros hand and I used DM because they were close to my boat and were recommended. I had delimitation in the cockpit deck under the helm and they did a fine job in restoring it to better then new. I'm sure there are other in the Annapolis area too.
    Bob Skalkowski
    1987 E32 III (#722) - "Vesper"

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Bolo View Post
    I understand. I have a small one car garage but you'd be amazed how much I can do in it. The only recommendation I can make is Diversified Marine ( http://www.diversifiedmarineservices.com ) There a saying, from a Client Eastwood movie that goes something like, "Every man has go to know his limitations". Well, there have been a few jobs on the boat that needed a pros hand and I used DM because they were close to my boat and were recommended. I had delimitation in the cockpit deck under the helm and they did a fine job in restoring it to better then new. I'm sure there are other in the Annapolis area too.
    Hi Bob. Yes I know Diversified Marine. They do nice work. Have me a new water heater last year. I was hoping to find some small shop that wouldn't charge a grand to repair this.

    I do have an angle grinder. I'm about to use it on a ridiculously bent clevis pin on my anchor roller. 😈

  8. #8
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
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    That particular job takes time, even for a pro, if it's to come out right. Hence money.

    Try a local "handyman." It's not so much skill required as a willingness to take on a challenge--without a lot of overhead.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
    Table of Contents for Thelonious Blog here
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  9. #9
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    http://turnermarinesvcs.com/svcs-fib...oat-repair.htm

    Phil's crew does work at several area marinas and my boat is next to his trailer at Fairwinds. This would be a great cold weather project for when they can't work outdoors.

    Spoke with Phil and he said it would be no problem and rather than leaving a message on the website, to just call. I guess his getting messages thru the web site is intermittent.
    Last edited by Tin Kicker; 10-18-2019 at 04:44 AM.

  10. #10
    Sound advice!

    Quote Originally Posted by Christian Williams View Post
    That particular job takes time, even for a pro, if it's to come out right. Hence money.

    Try a local "handyman." It's not so much skill required as a willingness to take on a challenge--without a lot of overhead.

  11. #11
    Tin Kicker, that is a great lead.i will call Phil on Monday. Thank you!

    QUOTE=Tin Kicker;125339]http://turnermarinesvcs.com/svcs-fib...oat-repair.htm

    Phil's crew does work at several area marinas and my boat is next to his trailer at Fairwinds. This would be a great cold weather project for when they can't work outdoors.

    Spoke with Phil and he said it would be no problem and rather than leaving a message on the website, to just call. I guess his getting messages thru the web site is intermittent.[/QUOTE]

  12. #12
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    I mentioned you to him and he said it'd be no problem.

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