Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Chainplate U-Bolts

  1. #1
    Contributing Partner
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Kemah, Texas
    Posts
    128

    Chainplate U-Bolts

    After inspecting the deck u-bolts that attach to the chainplate, I noticed the aluminum blocks have some corrosion and pitting. Also, if you look at the picture, one of the blocks seems to have either split or corroded and is pulling away from the deck.

    has anyone tried to source these aluminum blocks? I know rig rite shows to have them or at least they are listed in the catalog. Iím sure they want an arm, a leg and a kidney for all 6......
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	923ACFD2-6FE0-462F-ADD4-98EE901A0FB0.jpg 
Views:	44 
Size:	53.7 KB 
ID:	27901
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	EB1F85DA-A8EF-4362-957D-1F389DCF4858.jpg 
Views:	25 
Size:	61.4 KB 
ID:	27902

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	FA692F1C-89B6-4840-ADCE-DA20DD317EA0.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	127.8 KB 
ID:	27903
    Josephine, E381 hull 505 (1983) Universal 5432

  2. #2
    Principal Partner Afrakes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Port Kent , NY 0n Lake Champlain
    Posts
    647

    Aluminum rigging blocks

    You can purchase aluminum stock and make your own. Or take one to your local metal working shop and get a quote.
    Al Frakes
    1987 E-28 Reba Gee
    Hull #663
    Port Kent, NY

  3. #3
    Moderator Christian Williams's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    4,171
    Blog Entries
    78
    Hard to see the split in the photos. If split, I'd replace it.

    The corrosion doesn't look that significant, to me at least.
    Thelonious II, E381 hull 513 (1984) Universal 5432
    Table of Contents for Thelonious Blog here
    Videos: http://www.youtube.com/c/ChristianWilliamsYachting

  4. #4
    1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Nanaimo, British Columbia, Canada on Vancouver Island
    Posts
    1,956
    Hi,
    Although I was fairly certain that my chain plates weren't leaking, this is such a common problem area that I wanted to be very sure. Although they looked ok, I drilled a few 1/8" holes through the underside of the deck (the area in your pictures) about 1/4" deep, so just penetrating through the lower fibreglass and slightly into the core. When I withdrew the drill bit, I could see a small amount of the core in the spiral of the drill bit. It looked completely dry, confirming that there was no leakage there. I have since drilled a few similar holes near all the deck fittings, not only to check them, but also, if they do begin to leak, water will drip out of those holes, so it's like an early warning system. Checking each of those holes a couple times a year for any signs of moisture takes only a few minutes, but gives me peace of mind. The 1/8" holes in the underlying fibreglass are hidden under the headliner, and are small enough to not affect the strength or any other concerns.

    Just a thought for you to get further information on whether moisture is contributing to your corrosion (which doesn't look too serious in my opinion, though I agree with Christian that any block or backing plate with a crack needs to be replaced).

    Frank
    Last edited by Frank Langer; 10-13-2019 at 11:29 AM.

  5. #5
    Principal Partner Afrakes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Port Kent , NY 0n Lake Champlain
    Posts
    647

    Aluminum rigging blocks

    I have three of them if you have a need. They were removed from my salt water exposed 81' E-28+. One has minor corrosion damage. The other two moderate corrosion damage.
    Al Frakes
    1987 E-28 Reba Gee
    Hull #663
    Port Kent, NY

  6. #6
    Contributing Partner
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Kemah, Texas
    Posts
    128
    Quote Originally Posted by Afrakes View Post
    I have three of them if you have a need. They were removed from my salt water exposed 81' E-28+. One has minor corrosion damage. The other two moderate corrosion damage.


    I may take you up on that...I can really only see 2 of the aluminum blocks that may need to be replaced and depending on which ones. I believe some of the blocks are machined for a specific angle of the interior chainplate connecting rods.
    Josephine, E381 hull 505 (1983) Universal 5432

  7. #7
    Sustaining Partner Slick470's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    206
    Rig-Rite shows them on their website, but apparently, they only have a few specific sizes and rod angles still in stock. If you can figure out exactly what you need, you can contact them, and they will respond back IF they have what you need. If they don't have it, they probably won't bother letting you know. At least that is how it worked for me when I tried contacting them. I appreciate that they still keep things on their website for research purposes though.

    Ours still had lots of material left and most likely would have lasted for years to come, but it was noticeably corroded. So, with Rig-Rite being a bust, we had a local rigger have one fabricated for us. They had already done a set of these for another Ericson so seemed like a good bet to have the new one fabricated for ours. They did ours in stainless, which is probably overkill, but given our new deck bolts are stainless, as well as the chainplate rod, it seemed like a good idea to keep everything in as close to the same galvanic scale as possible.

    Yours look to be in pretty good shape still though. I'd probably try removing them and getting them cleaned up before committing to replacing them. Regardless, you will want to seal up the deck leak that is causing the corrosion.

    Good luck.
    Last edited by Slick470; 10-14-2019 at 07:52 AM.
    Andy H.
    1990 Ericson Olson 911S #149 Hawkeye
    Deale, Maryland
    Yanmar 2GM20F

  8. #8
    Principal Partner Afrakes's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Port Kent , NY 0n Lake Champlain
    Posts
    647

    Blocks

    Quote Originally Posted by Baslin View Post
    I may take you up on that...I can really only see 2 of the aluminum blocks that may need to be replaced and depending on which ones. I believe some of the blocks are machined for a specific angle of the interior chainplate connecting rods.
    Mine are flat and the hole for the tension rod is machined at an angle. If you need a replacement I'd lean toward getting a local machine shop to fabricate one.
    Al Frakes
    1987 E-28 Reba Gee
    Hull #663
    Port Kent, NY

  9. #9
    Contributing Partner
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Kemah, Texas
    Posts
    128
    Quote Originally Posted by Slick470 View Post
    Rig-Rite shows them on their website, but apparently, they only have a few specific sizes and rod angles still in stock. If you can figure out exactly what you need, you can contact them, and they will respond back IF they have what you need. If they don't have it, they probably won't bother letting you know. At least that is how it worked for me when I tried contacting them. I appreciate that they still keep things on their website for research purposes though.

    Ours still had lots of material left and most likely would have lasted for years to come, but it was noticeably corroded. So, with Rig-Rite being a bust, we had a local rigger have one fabricated for us. They had already done a set of these for another Ericson so seemed like a good bet to have the new one fabricated for ours. They did ours in stainless, which is probably overkill, but given our new deck bolts are stainless, as well as the chainplate rod, it seemed like a good idea to keep everything in as close to the same galvanic scale as possible.

    Yours look to be in pretty good shape still though. I'd probably try removing them and getting them cleaned up before committing to replacing them. Regardless, you will want to seal up the deck leak that is causing the corrosion.

    Good luck.
    Slick,

    Thanks for the response...Once I get the blocks pulled I will be able to really investigate their condition and then make a decision. I like the idea of having new ones machined
    Josephine, E381 hull 505 (1983) Universal 5432

  10. #10
    Principal Partner bigd14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    585
    Blog Entries
    10
    I had new ones machined at a local shop. They got the angle and the surface matched to the rod head right, but one of the holes was drilled too deep, leaving marginal threads on the rod at the other end to tension it up. They made some cup washers to fill the gap but I didn't like the fit. Luckily I had about 1.5 extra threads which was all I needed. They used some kind of "special" aluminum alloy which is supposedly stronger than standard aluminum. So far so good.
    1984 Ericson 30+
    Hull #651

    Formerly 1972 Ericson 27

Similar Threads

  1. E38 Chainplate U-Bolts and Replacements
    By footrope in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 69
    Last Post: 08-16-2017, 09:53 PM
  2. keel bolts on E 38-200
    By trenton in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 09-22-2016, 05:38 AM
  3. 38-200 Keel Bolts
    By oceandreams89 in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 12-10-2006, 03:33 PM
  4. E27 keel bolts
    By JasonRJ in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-04-2006, 07:58 PM
  5. Keel Bolts
    By hodo in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-01-2005, 08:07 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •