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Olson 34 Survey Questions

racushman

O34 - Los Angeles
I am under contract to purchase the Olson 34 that is for sale in Sausalito. Have a couple questions for this group on some items from the sea trial and survey;

1) Hull-to-Deck Joint: interior of the boat shows a fair amount of water staining on the carpet that's on the inside of the hull, and areas of teak discoloration that would appear to be from water coming down from above. The potential sources would be the hull-to-deck joint, the stainless bolts that go through the aluminum toe rail, or the stanchion bases. A long run of the hose couldn't seem to replicate any leaks. Deck is sound, so no reason to suspect water entry higher up in the coach roof. Best story i can tell myself at this point is the stanchions leaked badly a while back, and someone rebedded them. Anyone have any experience here?

2) Mast Base/Step: butt of the mast where it sits on the step is fairly corroded for 1/4" all the way around, maybe 1/2" in one spot. looks like the remedy would be to slice off the bottom 1/2" of the mast and build a new step out of G10 that would raise it the corresponding amount. Anyone done this before and have a steer on how major a job it is?

3) Steering Pedestal Base: has a corrosion perforation that goes all the way thru the base casting (but curiously not in the vicinity of any of the big mounting bolts). Am wondering if this is a repair or replace item?

4) Lewmar Opening Ports: all appear to be badly crazed and show signs of leaking. Anyone have any experience with successfully replacing the lexan and seals, or better just to bite the bullet and replace?

Appreciate any experience and perspectives from this group.

Thanks much,
Rob
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I am under contract to purchase the Olson 34 that is for sale in Sausalito. Have a couple questions for this group on some items from the sea trial and survey;

1) Hull-to-Deck Joint: interior of the boat shows a fair amount of water staining on the carpet that's on the inside of the hull, and areas of teak discoloration that would appear to be from water coming down from above. The potential sources would be the hull-to-deck joint, the stainless bolts that go through the aluminum toe rail, or the stanchion bases. A long run of the hose couldn't seem to replicate any leaks. Deck is sound, so no reason to suspect water entry higher up in the coach roof. Best story i can tell myself at this point is the stanchions leaked badly a while back, and someone rebedded them. Anyone have any experience here?

2) Mast Base/Step: butt of the mast where it sits on the step is fairly corroded for 1/4" all the way around, maybe 1/2" in one spot. looks like the remedy would be to slice off the bottom 1/2" of the mast and build a new step out of G10 that would raise it the corresponding amount. Anyone done this before and have a steer on how major a job it is?

3) Steering Pedestal Base: has a corrosion perforation that goes all the way thru the base casting (but curiously not in the vicinity of any of the big mounting bolts). Am wondering if this is a repair or replace item?

4) Lewmar Opening Ports: all appear to be badly crazed and show signs of leaking. Anyone have any experience with successfully replacing the lexan and seals, or better just to bite the bullet and replace?

Appreciate any experience and perspectives from this group.
Thanks much,
Rob

1) The actual joint is a top overlap with the deck on top of the turned-in hull flange. I have only found one small leak in this since owning our boat. That was just above the nav seat area where one of the #12 Locator screws had started to weep some water. (When the deck was placed on the hull, and after the white sealant was laid on thick, they had to firmly "locate" these two large pieces before the aluminum toe rail could be dropped on and thru bolted. So, from my inspection of the bottom of the joint, here n there, they drove these flat head screws about every 6 feet or so , and this temporarily locked deck and hull in proper alignment.
These hidden screws are out of sight under the toe rail and I found a way to pull the offending screw out from below.... with a home made hollow drill "bit" that was a small piece of SS pipe. I then filled the resulting hole with thickened epoxy and no more seepage of water.

The stanchion bases. Different story. Luckily there is no coring under any of them. They can, OTOH, flex and leak or sometimes try to tear out. Our boat came with a reinforcement under the base that is above the galley counter. I reinforced all (!) of the others with thickened epoxy and G10 plates.

Here is my thread with some pix, back when I improved all of them.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?3371-Stanchion-Bracing&referrerid=28

I also had pulled off all the pulpits for straightening, filling of old wiring holes, and buffing to a minor polish. All of the pulpit bases then had G10 backing plates installed under them.
Pix of the stern rail backing plate in this thread:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?3509-Shore-Power-upgrade&referrerid=28

As for the opening ports, others here should have some repair links to share, and ditto for the corroded pedestal base. Ours is OK, but then we have been a fresh water environment since 1994.

If you have some photos of the wounded parts, we will try to diagnose as best we can. We are pretty good at suggesting work for someone else to do! :)

Cheers,
Loren

ps: you might find some interesting trivia in my blog entries here.http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/blog.php?28-Loren-Beach
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Looking up, and Out

Speaking of your #4, I had no choice about replacing the Lewmar size 70 forward hatch when we bought our boat - original one had a bent frame.
Years later I replaced the size 20 vent hatch when the lens was getting really crazed.
Also, our original hatches had the crappy Lewmar "Roll Stop" hinge scheme and never worked for long. The newer / current series have a different adjustable-friction hinge that works better.

You *will* need to fill with epoxy and re-drill the holes and you will have some tedious fun getting at the underside of the forward hatch without ruining the headliner.

The 4 long fixed ports are Lexan (r), and we replaced them in '95. They are now UV-damaged enough again that it's on the to-do list. There is a trick to fastening them so that they never leak, and if you get to that point, just ask.

We have all original opening ports, but some of the little O-ring parts in the turn knobs need to be resealed. Somewhat crazed, but not too bad.
I also added one new port for the aft cabin, as it seemed a little too dark there.

Cheers,
Loren
 
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racushman

O34 - Los Angeles
Loren - thanks for the ideas and feedback, very helpful. I'll take a look for those locator screws.

Anyone had been to the mast step rodeo that I describe in #2?
 

67rway

Member II
O34

Congrats on your pending purchase. We love ours!

The only issue I can shed any light on of your list is the opening portlights. I bought new perimeter seal (lens to frame) material for mine from Lewmar. They are a bear to install despite lots of how to instructions/YouTubes, and I've only replaced the really leaky one so far. I believe good frame cleaning and a strategic drop or two of super glue in the corners was advised. Lots of talk of cursing/drinking/sore fingers. The little O-rings on the lever/latches are 2mm x 12mm, and can be found cheaply at your local Ace Hardware store.

Lucky you down in sunny warm So Cal! Will she be out of King Harbor? Lot's of great meals at The Strand House, and Kincaid's while visiting family/friends near there over the years!

Bruce
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Loren - thanks for the ideas and feedback, very helpful. I'll take a look for those locator screws.

Anyone had been to the mast step rodeo that I describe in #2?

No rodeo. but our cast slum. base plate is fine. Since the base sits on top of a heavily-built "hat" stringer (floor, to be technical) it almost never has bilge water in contact with it.
OTOH, prior owner of our boat did have water sometimes up to sole top level.... we figured that they did not pay attention to the stuffing box, and a few quarts of water would wander around vigorously when rolling around in those steep waves in SF Bay. I installed a PSS Shaft Seat in 1995 and never looked back.... dry bilge since.

Well, Yeah, there is rain water down the inside of the spar, but that's a "rainy Oregon thang" and I slurp it out once a week in the winters, as needed, after storms with a turkey baster. :)

Nickel Tour of the bilge here:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?480-New-Bilge-Hose-April-2016
 
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debonAir

Member III
The Aluminum pedestal base plate corrodes from the inside-out. Although it is painted (or coated, not sure) white, salt water and sand get underneath it and it eats away. Mine broke off a chunk on the forward end, probably from pushing on the wheel hard. Then a directed water hose found a new area of corrosion which blew out another chunk on the port side. Lots of crumbles. Yeah, nothing next to the bolts which I also found strange. The base is not solid though. Underneath is a lot of open space and just the outer ring meets the floor so stuff gets and stays in there.

Depending on who made your pedestal getting a new base to match might be problematic. If you have an Edson there's a possibility a replacement part is still available. Mine was a Yacht Specialties, out of business since 1989, but I managed to find a nearly-new-looking salvaged pedestal for a few hundred dollars this Summer that I'll swap in over the Winter. There are a few other alternatives: You could have a fabricated base made from welding tube and plate, ala Christian Williams, or cast and machine one to match the original. If you have a YS base, there is a guy here that has a mold he made for the casting he'd rent out. I was just about to send a check when I discovered the salvaged part. I also considered just getting a new pedestal which is probably the best option if not on a budget.

Like everything on these boats, its a common problem, and not a real deal-breaker, but more involved to fix than you'd guess by looking at it.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
3) Steering Pedestal Base: has a corrosion perforation that goes all the way thru the base casting (but curiously not in the vicinity of any of the big mounting bolts). Am wondering if this is a repair or replace item?

The pedestal can be fixed. The YS steering is actually robust and gives very little trouble--making a new Edson system not necessary in 99 percent of cases. (Edson/YS parts aren't interchangeable).

Here's what I did:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/entry.php?119-Pedestal-Rebuild

Chandleries occasionally do have pedestals, but many look alike but aren't, as I found after buying one on line.

On an old boat it's a good idea to tear down the pedestal steering anyhow, check it out, tune it up. That does take a bit of time--which is why nobody did it for 30 years.


 
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racushman

O34 - Los Angeles
thanks everyone for their feedback on my questions... very helpful. this group is a terrific resource.
 

CTOlsen

Member III
Sorry for being late to the dance, but....

I am under contract to purchase the Olson 34 that is for sale in Sausalito. Have a couple questions for this group on some items from the sea trial and survey;

1) Hull-to-Deck Joint: interior of the boat shows a fair amount of water staining on the carpet that's on the inside of the hull, and areas of teak discoloration that would appear to be from water coming down from above. The potential sources would be the hull-to-deck joint, the stainless bolts that go through the aluminum toe rail, or the stanchion bases. A long run of the hose couldn't seem to replicate any leaks. Deck is sound, so no reason to suspect water entry higher up in the coach roof. Best story i can tell myself at this point is the stanchions leaked badly a while back, and someone rebedded them. Anyone have any experience here?Ours also showed staining. The primary source is the lifeline stancions, which can be pulled and rebedded to seal. Not a major issue.

2) Mast Base/Step: butt of the mast where it sits on the step is fairly corroded for 1/4" all the way around, maybe 1/2" in one spot. looks like the remedy would be to slice off the bottom 1/2" of the mast and build a new step out of G10 that would raise it the corresponding amount. Anyone done this before and have a steer on how major a job it is? I would do what I could to keep the mast intact. Make sure the drain hole is clear, enlarge if needed. Also, look at the oak strips that the mast base sits on. My strips were completely rotted, requiring replacement with teak. G10 is a great product if you need to go that route.

3) Steering Pedestal Base: has a corrosion perforation that goes all the way thru the base casting (but curiously not in the vicinity of any of the big mounting bolts). Am wondering if this is a repair or replace item?

4) Lewmar Opening Ports: all appear to be badly crazed and show signs of leaking. Anyone have any experience with successfully replacing the lexan and seals, or better just to bite the bullet and replace?I replaced all lewmar ports last winter and they look, and work great. Several had started leaking. I was able to get replacement lenses, latches and hinges through Defender ( which is 10 minutes from where I work). A very inexpensive and worthwhile replacement.

Appreciate any experience and perspectives from this group. I also found that my aft bulkhead has rotted at the hull joint. This is the bulkhead aft of the quarterberth. The source of water was from the teak trim strips in the cockpit floor at the helm, both sides. The screw holes developed a leak path which leaked into the pedestal pan, routed the water down the bulkead, and settled a the bottom of the berth to bulkhead joint. I replaced the teak strips with Starboad, and sealed the holes. This winter, I will have the bottom 2" of the bulkhead replaced to recover the structural integrity of the bulkhead.

Thanks much,
Rob

Good luck with your boat. I'm on my 11th season and love the boat. I've done several upgrades, and like other members of this group am glad to share.
CTO
 
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