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Exterior Teak Renewal

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I have been using Cetol on hand rails and it does not last over a year and I really do not like the appearance. So I hope that someone else has experience with this product.
Either that.... or (blasphemy alert) I am going to spec out some SS replacement hand rails.
 

woolamaloo

Member III
I can't review either of those products, but I'll endorse my own. I use simple oxalic acid with a stainless steel scrubber to brighten the wood. For years, I'd just use Star Brite Teak Oil but it would only look good 3-4 weeks. Now, I use Total Boat Danish Teak Sealer. It goes on just as easy as the oil but it has a little pigment in it and lasts most of the season. It is very thin and a quart is going to outlive me. It keeps the teak looking really nice and fresh without all the maintenance hassles of varnish. And, if I ever changed my mind, I could switch back to oil (but I won't).
 

Geoff W.

Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm
Blogs Author
I used Te-Ka 2-part cleaner, which brightened the teak considerably from its dead grey, but is very toxic stuff and Te-Ka Part 1 leaves marks on the gelcoat if you don't get it off in time. I think it was a good "shock treatment" for old, uncleaned teak, but now that I've Te-Ka'd once I will probably try a less intense one-part cleaner next time. I went over it with Daly's Seafin teak oil afterwards, and 3 months or so later it's basically bleached off from the sun. Needs another go, but looked really nice when fresh.

That said, I tried Star-Brite Tropical Teak Sealer on my cockpit compartment teak ring, and I hated the color - it's sort of matte and orange, doesn't look at all like the original wood. Might suck it up and try varnishing next March, I dunno.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I went back to varnish for the handrails.

With a good base (probably seven coats), I have redone the varnish twice in three years. Light sanding, two coats. Takes an hour or two. Most of that is masking off the rails from the deck. I don't use UV covers, and we are a 12-month big-sun zone. Standard Schooner by Interlux.

The new fast-dry varnishes make building up the base convenient if starting from scratch.

I got tired of oiled teak, which goes bad fast here. Surprised at the success of the varnish.
 

gabriel

Live free or die hard
I took mine off last winter and scrubbed them with steel wool under running water. This is how they turned out...

04098A3E-141C-4411-84F1-0531609070EC.jpg

I ended up varnishing them and applying at least 15 coats over the span of a month and a half.

10884BC3-6DF2-40A5-B5AD-C0D71EC3C41C.jpg

In retrospect, I wish I would have left them natural. It's easier, more durable and I like the feel of bare teak over varnished teak, but that's just my taste.

D9BE6F24-CB6C-4BE5-82E3-220F6B44D507.jpg
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I've had it with exterior teak! Low maintenance synthetic materials for me, going forward. However, I did discover last fall, while pressure-washing the deck, that the pressure washer strips that old gray stuff from teak in just a few seconds, leaving that "fresh wood" look with a fraction of the effort of other methods. I can't say whether this causes more or less erosion than abrasives do.
 

bgary

Advanced Beginner
Blogs Author
I'm probably the outlier on this (as with most things).... I use oil and (so far) am fairly happy with it.

Couple of years ago I sanded, bleached and oiled. Since then, all I've done is refresh the oil when I start seeing "dry spots"... takes 15 mins to go around the whole boat with a dampened throwaway brush (longer if I'm going to do the whole handrail and want to mask off the surrounding area), and it looks great. Nowhere near the depth and luster of a good varnish job, but nowhere near the time and patience required, either.

I keep it all (handrails, taffrail, companionway trim) covered when at the dock, which seems to extend the amount of time between touch-ups. I did a light touch-up in May, spiffed it up again in July before the rendezvous, and may do another touch-up in October if I get some decent weather before starting to put things away for the winter.

$.02
Bruce
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I'm also an outlier, as I've been varnishing my handrails and companionway doors for the past 13 years, and will continue to do so. I do a light sand with 220 grit sandpaper twice per year, takes about 15 minutes. Then I add a coat of Varnish, another 20 minutes, and it always looks great. I have a steady hand, even at my age, so I don't use masking tape.
Out boat is on Vancouver Island, so I might feel different if I was further south in hot sun and more UV.
My neighbour at the marina used a mix of linseed and pigment, and swears by it, but it turns dark, almost mouldy within a couple of months - - not my idea of a good solution.
Frank
 
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bolbmw

Member III
I recently re-did my exterior teak (no pictures right now) and after my slip neighbour saw me sanding away all the old teak he handed me a carbide scraper. I gave it a try and was amazed how quickly it removed the old varnish without damaging the underlaying wood. A quick sand later and I was slapping on 5 coats of Schooner varnish and it looked like new again. Very happy. I'm planning to do a maintenance coat every spring.

Previously I used 3 coats of Epifanes and it failed after 2 years, which is why I removed all the old varnish.

If you don't want glossy varnish, my slip neighbour swears by Tonkinois. His wooden boat always looks great.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Scraper, yes.

Heat gun with scraper or putty knife, yes.

For a large varnished surface like companionway stairs, a heat gun is the only rational way and is just about effortless.
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Teak Time

Thank you all for the great input!

I’m pondering what approach to take now. There doesn’t seem to be any perfect solution, but two or three good ones.
 

JSM

Member III
Watco Teak Oil

Over the years I have used everything and have come full circle back to teak oil. This year I stumbled across Watco Teak Oil at Home Depot for $11.00 a quart. Apply a liberal coat and just leave it without wiping off the excess it leaves a nice varnish like appearance'
The pics below are of two coats done about eight weeks ago.

20190919_174317.jpg20190919_174238.jpg
 

Ken Haneline

Member II
Four years ago, took off the wood handrails because one of the yard guys cracked one of them by standing on it. Yes, a big yard guy! Went with Plasteak up the road from me in Copley, Ohio. Here is there website. https://www.plasteak.com/ Perfect replication of the handrails, even with the proper bend in the rail. Perfect for me. Ken
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
Four years ago, took off the wood handrails because one of the yard guys cracked one of them by standing on it. Yes, a big yard guy! Went with Plasteak up the road from me in Copley, Ohio. Here is there website. https://www.plasteak.com/ Perfect replication of the handrails, even with the proper bend in the rail. Perfect for me. Ken

Likewise...went with their hand rails and bought planks from them for other projects. No regrets and after 3 years, the hand rails are holding up fine with NO varnish or oiling needed!
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
Likewise...went with their hand rails and bought planks from them for other projects. No regrets and after 3 years, the hand rails are holding up fine with NO varnish or oiling needed!

Forgot to add the photo and couldn't insert after posting original comment.

PlasTeak Rail.jpg
 

Rocinante33

Contributing Partner
Prep Work

Over the years I have used everything and have come full circle back to teak oil. This year I stumbled across Watco Teak Oil at Home Depot for $11.00 a quart. Apply a liberal coat and just leave it without wiping off the excess it leaves a nice varnish like appearance'
The pics below are of two coats done about eight weeks ago.

View attachment 27795View attachment 27796

How much prep work was required before application of the teak oil? It didn’t require bleaching, did it? What condition was the teak in before hand?
 
I like the look and feel of oil

I asked the same question and I think it comes down to personal preference. I like the look and feel of oil and find it easy to refresh. After initial removal of the old varnish it has been easy to upkeep. Likely more often that varnish, but not near as long. There is also something else not mentioned here. I am still fairly new to sailing (purchased our boat in December), but it is spending time on the boat and caring for it in a way that isn't complicated. Especially when there are so many things to learn on a boat.

Shannon
 

frick

Member III
Cetol

I have been using Cetol on hand rails and it does not last over a year and I really do not like the appearance. So I hope that someone else has experience with this product.
Either that.... or (blasphemy alert) I am going to spec out some SS replacement hand rails.

The key to fetal is to clean the wood well, and put on 7 to nine thin coats. It will last 5 years.
also they have regular and light. The darker regular gives great if protection.

Rick
 
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