Refinishing cabin sole
- Thread starter chrism
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Search icon, upper right part of this screen.... Quite a bit of past commentary avail.......
Search on "sole" or "teak and holly", or similar.
I like 6 coats of varnish on top, and 2 coats on the bottom. many other finishes please other owners equally well.
Have you removed the sole pieces yet?
Loren in PDX
Search on "sole" or "teak and holly", or similar.
I like 6 coats of varnish on top, and 2 coats on the bottom. many other finishes please other owners equally well.
Have you removed the sole pieces yet?
Loren in PDX
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
I would avoid sanding it as the veneer is only 1 mm thick. I used a water based paint remover to get up all the old varnish.
diamondjim
Member II
Refinish cabin sole
Here is how to do it to get better than factory results. Remove the deck and work on it outside of the boat. The veneer is very thin but you can sand it carefully with 100 grit paper to remove the old finish and clean up the wood. Keep the machine (1/3 sheet orbital sander) moving over the surface at all times. You can go to 150 grit but 100 will do. Next, apply a heavy coat of clear, Zinser shellac with a roller to the deck. This seals the wood. After 30 mins, lightly sand the DRY surface with fine sand paper to smooth the deck. Now apply ONE heavy coat of polyurethane (I use Minwax Spar - also consider satin poly) using a roller. Finish the under side with Poly. Install the deck after 24 hrs. This is a very durable finish.
Here is how to do it to get better than factory results. Remove the deck and work on it outside of the boat. The veneer is very thin but you can sand it carefully with 100 grit paper to remove the old finish and clean up the wood. Keep the machine (1/3 sheet orbital sander) moving over the surface at all times. You can go to 150 grit but 100 will do. Next, apply a heavy coat of clear, Zinser shellac with a roller to the deck. This seals the wood. After 30 mins, lightly sand the DRY surface with fine sand paper to smooth the deck. Now apply ONE heavy coat of polyurethane (I use Minwax Spar - also consider satin poly) using a roller. Finish the under side with Poly. Install the deck after 24 hrs. This is a very durable finish.
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
If it is like mine and glued down, then you probably can't remove it without destroying it.
Steve
Member III
Any thought on how to lighten up oil darkened sole?
In one corner near our aft quarter berth sole we have a darken area where the light inserts between the teak have darkened due to the PO letting a small diesel leak go on for longer then they should have years ago. -Bad o-ring in the tank inspection port, when the tank was over filled or sloshed underway it would seep down slowly and saturate the abutting berth bulk head and down into the sole. Fortunately it was caught and fixed, but the damage remains. Certainly won't rot here!
Any thought on how to lighten the area, sanding alone will not do it. Thought about a Lestol soaking for a month... but maybe someone else has fixed other then cutting out the area and replacing....I hope!
Thanks, Steve 35-3 #156
In one corner near our aft quarter berth sole we have a darken area where the light inserts between the teak have darkened due to the PO letting a small diesel leak go on for longer then they should have years ago. -Bad o-ring in the tank inspection port, when the tank was over filled or sloshed underway it would seep down slowly and saturate the abutting berth bulk head and down into the sole. Fortunately it was caught and fixed, but the damage remains. Certainly won't rot here!
Any thought on how to lighten the area, sanding alone will not do it. Thought about a Lestol soaking for a month... but maybe someone else has fixed other then cutting out the area and replacing....I hope!
Thanks, Steve 35-3 #156
Roger Ware
Member III
Advice on new sole finishing needed
I am putting down a new sole in my E38 200. Still not sure of what to finish it with, but MinWax poly or equivalent seems like a good candidate. Should there be a coat of something before the poly (on the topside I mean)? Would a varnish look better?
Thanks in anticipation
Roger Ware, Kingston, ON
E38 200
I am putting down a new sole in my E38 200. Still not sure of what to finish it with, but MinWax poly or equivalent seems like a good candidate. Should there be a coat of something before the poly (on the topside I mean)? Would a varnish look better?
Thanks in anticipation
Roger Ware, Kingston, ON
E38 200
Geoff Johnson
Fellow Ericson Owner
On my new sole I am planning to use penetrating epoxy on all sides (recommended by the Hinckley yacht care book) followed by Ultimate Sole, which seems to be highly recommended.
Chris Miller
Sustaining Member
Don't go cheap on the finish
Hi all,
I'm learning a great deal from all the knowledgeable people here. I have a thought to add to the "what to finish my sole (or anything else on the boat for that matter) with" question. I am a cabinet/furniture maker by trade and would very much suggest that you don't mess with Minwax or your local Home Depot brand finish for stuff on your boat. Moist and especially sweetwater and saltwater environments are NASTY to wood and cheap finishes. I'd suggest using an Interlux, Sikkens, or other marine finish, or check out the stuff at Target Coatings who have some other great alternatives for marine environs. I think that using quality materials the first time will help to eliminate the need to ever do it again.
Just a suggestion,
Chris
Hi all,
I'm learning a great deal from all the knowledgeable people here. I have a thought to add to the "what to finish my sole (or anything else on the boat for that matter) with" question. I am a cabinet/furniture maker by trade and would very much suggest that you don't mess with Minwax or your local Home Depot brand finish for stuff on your boat. Moist and especially sweetwater and saltwater environments are NASTY to wood and cheap finishes. I'd suggest using an Interlux, Sikkens, or other marine finish, or check out the stuff at Target Coatings who have some other great alternatives for marine environs. I think that using quality materials the first time will help to eliminate the need to ever do it again.
Just a suggestion,
Chris
Roger Ware
Member III
Money cost is not the issue
Chris, thanks, I have never seen this site - of course these dont look like marine products either, but they look great. My 2 cents on finishes FWIW is that the money cost is so small its irrelevant - whether you use Minwax or an ultrahigh end Epifanes or Bristol finish, the difference in materials cost would probably be less than $100. That is dwarfed by the time cost, however - the dozens of hours of labour that these projects can take (or any other project on a boat for that matter).
I was drawn to Minwax poly because several ericson owners have used it with success. Also some who have used a marine varnish have subsequently observed that if they did it again they would use a polyurethane. Plus having to put fewer coats down has to be worth something. So I am still unsure what to do, but leaning to some polyurethane solution.
Thanks again, Roger.
Chris, thanks, I have never seen this site - of course these dont look like marine products either, but they look great. My 2 cents on finishes FWIW is that the money cost is so small its irrelevant - whether you use Minwax or an ultrahigh end Epifanes or Bristol finish, the difference in materials cost would probably be less than $100. That is dwarfed by the time cost, however - the dozens of hours of labour that these projects can take (or any other project on a boat for that matter).
I was drawn to Minwax poly because several ericson owners have used it with success. Also some who have used a marine varnish have subsequently observed that if they did it again they would use a polyurethane. Plus having to put fewer coats down has to be worth something. So I am still unsure what to do, but leaning to some polyurethane solution.
Thanks again, Roger.
Art Mullinax
Member III
Scrape it.
Quite often when doing the wood working on our boats we get carried away with sanding. After several projects these pieces of wood can get really thin. Look at someones grab rails after several sandings and refinishing. If the wood is in good condition and it doesn't have water stains, scrape the old varnish off, then using steel wool or scotchbrite to remove the sheen only from the surface, recoat with your favorite finish. When refinishing the sole remember the two woods have different hardnesses. Sandpaper will remove the softer wood quicker and the finished sole will look wavey or uneven. I've used glass window pane for scrapers. Using a glass cutter, you can cut curves or straight scrapers. When you're finished toss them. BE CAREFUL
Art,
Issaqueena/E29/#53
Quite often when doing the wood working on our boats we get carried away with sanding. After several projects these pieces of wood can get really thin. Look at someones grab rails after several sandings and refinishing. If the wood is in good condition and it doesn't have water stains, scrape the old varnish off, then using steel wool or scotchbrite to remove the sheen only from the surface, recoat with your favorite finish. When refinishing the sole remember the two woods have different hardnesses. Sandpaper will remove the softer wood quicker and the finished sole will look wavey or uneven. I've used glass window pane for scrapers. Using a glass cutter, you can cut curves or straight scrapers. When you're finished toss them. BE CAREFUL
Art,
Issaqueena/E29/#53
Thread Link to the "King of Sole"
From watching how visitors search, view, and use this site, I note that refinishing is a hot topic that gets a LOT of "Search" action here.
So here is a link to the large sole replacement and refinishing thread, in case you have not seen it.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1526&referrerid=28
There's more than one right answer to protecting your sole, it should be noted.
Best,
Loren
From watching how visitors search, view, and use this site, I note that refinishing is a hot topic that gets a LOT of "Search" action here.
So here is a link to the large sole replacement and refinishing thread, in case you have not seen it.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1526&referrerid=28
There's more than one right answer to protecting your sole, it should be noted.
Best,
Loren
Target Coatings
The Target Coatings site looks like an excellent resource. I am in the process of re-doing my cabin sole, and I like the fact that I can avoid using an epoxy penetrating coat. The Target product looks easier to use, and although it may not be as "tough" as epoxy, I suspect it is "good enough."
The Target Coatings site looks like an excellent resource. I am in the process of re-doing my cabin sole, and I like the fact that I can avoid using an epoxy penetrating coat. The Target product looks easier to use, and although it may not be as "tough" as epoxy, I suspect it is "good enough."