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Beginning a refit of E32-3 - what to tackle first?

nquigley

Sustaining Member
I've decided to refit my E32-3 by the time I retire in 3-5 years, with the aim of bringing it up to a similar standard for offshore cruising as Christian did with Thelonious (I).
I'm going to give myself about 12-18 months to do it because I have limited time at the moment.

--> Is there a rational order in which to approach a phased refit?

I plan to replace the cabin sole - since pulling that up will expose some wiring and a lot of the plumbing (and keel bolts), it seems that might be the best place to start (?)
To replace wiring that's in the mast, can that be done reasonably easily from a boson's chair, or should the mast come down to do it most efficiently?
The biggies I can think of are:
- wiring throughout (incl mast) and circuit board (and replace cabin lights with LED) - I bet some wiring is really hard to get at.
- potable water plumbing
- head plumbing (install new head?)
- replace all through-hulls
- inspect/replace steering cables
- detailed inspection of mast and standing rigging (and rigging attachment points in hull) - consider replacing key standing rigging elements as precaution
- check rudder for water penetration, and replace bearings
- keel bolts (not sure what or how to check, but can find out later)
- clean fuel tank
- complete engine and gearbox service with new hoses and cables as necessary (replace engine mounts? exhaust? new engine gauges?)
- repack stuffing box (replace with better design?); add folding prop
- bring electronics up to 21st century (wind speed and direction gauges; e-charts & navigation; other)

Our club has a railway for short-term haul-out, but no mast crane, and no way to move boat to hard-standing.
There's a commercial boatyard 4 hrs away, where I'd consider strategic outsourcing of certain tasks that make sense (don't know which, though).

... Here I go ... into the void ...
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Bruce will know about the mast work (his blog is a starter).

If the sole is glued down, destroying it will make quite a mess. I'd replace with temporary plywood and save the real sole for last. It takes a beating during the rehab process.

If the current sole is screwed down, I'd keep it till last. Pull up and put back as needed.

Sounds exciting!
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Old Wires, and Risk, and music

Considering that standing rig -- plan to drop the spar and do a re-rig. We did this on our boat over a decade ago. Plan to replace the wire and the turn buckles. Inspect those deck U-bolts that the shrouds attach to, especially on the inside corners for cracks. There are threads here discussing this, with pix.

While the spar is lowered, smooth out the aluminum sheaves where the ancient wire running rigging has scarred them -- change to low-stretch rope if the boat still has any original wire halyards.

Replace the old 12 volt wiring in the mast. Pulling new cable through the internal tubing will be 'interesting', but do-able. One bit of trivia that will make the re-wiring go a little easier is that modern LED lighting will no longer require 14 gauge wiring. Heck, you could drop down to 16 gauge nowadays. Put a new LED anchor light on top and change out the original amp-burner steaming and foredeck light fixture for an LED one. The old lenses are very likely ruined long ago by UV, anyway. Ours were. :0

If the standing is old, like original... you're way beyond the normal 10 to 15 year replacement point and way into the "hope and prayer" part. While the wire may go on for a while without breaking, a dis-masting is quite a traumatic event and only with luck will you avoid injury.

Put a new VHF antenna on top and pull new coax for it. Age will deteriorate the old coax a lot.

We did all that... everything's a lot easier when the spar is horizontal.

Gotta say: love that name!

Partial lyrics from a great Alan Parsons Project song:
"The traveller awaits the morning tide
He doesn't know what's on the other side
But something deep inside of him
Keeps telling him to go
He hasn't found a reason to say no"
 
Last edited:

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
nquigley,

I am currently removing/replacing 40 years of old wiring. step one is remove anything the previous owner decided wasn't needed but left hanging. Makes working with connected stuff easier.

So far, I have removed sinks, cabinet doors and odds and ends to get into those really tight places.

Please post pictures, they'll help others like myself as we work similar projects.

MJS
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
slow progress

I began to reorganize the electrical distribution boxes a couple weeks ago (I have the recommended labeler, and all!), but, apart for rerouting some 'too-tight' wires, I found the total re-org too daunting for now.
But, so I can get at things on/at the masthead, I installed a pair of these folding mast steps today:
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sea-dog-line-folding-mast-step
I mounted them about 45" from the masthead. I have an efficient mast-climbing rig (based on cavers' ascending/repelling gear), but it puts my head just below the level of the masthead. I need to remove the OEM anemometer and send it to Data Marine for refurb - I want to get to about chest-level with the masthead - hence the pair of same-height mast steps - they're positioned one 'step' higher than my climbing rig can get me.
It took me 2 hours up there just to install the steps - will have to do the anemometer next weekend.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
The steps are excellent and great to have, and I wish I did.

Anemometers are basically useless psychological crutches (I claim), so it is worth noting that if that one really is original equipment, spending money to keep it working may be....the answer to a question you didn't ask.

I spent about $1300 on a Tack Tick / Raymarine wireless, which works fine. But all it tells me is where the wind is coming from and what its speed it. Both I always already know.

We put so much of this instrumentation stuff on our boats we might as well also wear a 12-wire EKG.

Then if we drop dead, we'll be able to confirm it.
 
Last edited:

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I do like those steps. Not enough, so far, to pay for them though. It occurred to me that the oval-shaped ones might provide a local place to clip ones safety harness. A couple of the “real cruisers” in my marina have rat lines up to the spreaders and folding steps above. Looks pretty cool, but maybe a bit pretentious for my boat. Anyhow, I have the ATN climber, and it does allow you to stand and get your head above the masthead. It doesn’t take an hour to rig and climb - maybe 20 minutes, being very careful. Of course, the total number of trips up and down is always greater than one had planned.
 

GrandpaSteve

Sustaining Member
I agree with Christian here, so this is basically a thumbs up. But a windex is an important non-electronic instrument that is good to have on top of the mast.

The steps are excellent and great to have, and I wish I did.

Anemometers are basically useless psychological crutches (I claim), so it is worth noting that if that one really is original equipment, spending money to keep it working may be....the answer to a question you didn;t ask.

I spent about $1300 on a Tack Tick wireless, which works fine. But all it tell me is where the wind is coming from and what its speed it. Both I always already know.

We put so much of this instrumentation stuff on our boats we might as well also wear a 12-wire EKG.

Then if we drop dead, we'll be able to confirm it.
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
integrated wind and GPS plotter system?

I agree with Christian here, so this is basically a thumbs up. But a windex is an important non-electronic instrument that is good to have on top of the mast.
I agree with you and Christian - your own senses tell you want you have in the way of wind direction and speed at any time, but i haven't found the system I ultimately want: i.e., an integrated system, operated and viewed from a portable laptop/tablet and a mounted plotter screen (down below) that gives 'local area' wind direction and speed arrows, and is integrated with GPS location, local charts, current, and ideally, lay lines to the next waypoint.
There seem to be several ways to skin this cat - too many. I'll be happy spend $3-4K on a good integrated system (B&G? Garmin? other?) - especially if a lot of it is wireless ;-)
I just can't work out how to make the decision - looking to extended Caribbean cruising, but capable of expanding to further afield.
Is there already a thread on GPS/chart plotters and navigation solutions in general?
 

gadangit

Member III
Okay, I'll dissent. If you are an open cockpit sailor with no dodger, bimini or any other overhead obstructions and you are in your cockpit for the entirety of your sail then I can understand not desiring the cost and maintenance hassle of electronic instruments. I've done both. I like having the info.
We have a current generation Raymarine MFD at the nav station down below with wired masthead sensors, depth, boat speed, sea temp. You could do the same with a number of other manufacturers and have identical information. All of them will allow you to import polars if you have them. All of them will do more calculations and display the results than you ever knew was possible. They will calculate tack angles, current, set, true wind and display all this in ways that make sense.

Raymarine also has an app for tablets and phones, just like the rest of them. I can completely control the MFD and the auto pilot (via the MFD) from the tablet via WIFI. The display on the tablet is exact in form and function to what you see on the MFD itself. We keep the ipad in a lifeproof case up in the cockpit. It is either running iNavX or the Raymarine app.

Is all of this necessary? Nope. But it is where the technology has taken us. I started with a desire for a chartplotter down below out of the weather and all this stuff came with it.

Chris
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
I've decided to refit my E32-3 by the time I retire in 3-5 years, with the aim of bringing it up to a similar standard for offshore cruising as Christian did with Thelonious (I).
I'm going to give myself about 12-18 months to do it because I have limited time at the moment.

--> Is there a rational order in which to approach a phased refit?

I plan to replace the cabin sole - since pulling that up will expose some wiring and a lot of the plumbing (and keel bolts), it seems that might be the best place to start (?)
To replace wiring that's in the mast, can that be done reasonably easily from a boson's chair, or should the mast come down to do it most efficiently?
The biggies I can think of are:
- wiring throughout (incl mast) and circuit board (and replace cabin lights with LED) - I bet some wiring is really hard to get at.
- potable water plumbing
- head plumbing (install new head?)
- replace all through-hulls
- inspect/replace steering cables
- detailed inspection of mast and standing rigging (and rigging attachment points in hull) - consider replacing key standing rigging elements as precaution
- check rudder for water penetration, and replace bearings
- keel bolts (not sure what or how to check, but can find out later)
- clean fuel tank
- complete engine and gearbox service with new hoses and cables as necessary (replace engine mounts? exhaust? new engine gauges?)
- repack stuffing box (replace with better design?); add folding prop
- bring electronics up to 21st century (wind speed and direction gauges; e-charts & navigation; other)

Our club has a railway for short-term haul-out, but no mast crane, and no way to move boat to hard-standing.
There's a commercial boatyard 4 hrs away, where I'd consider strategic outsourcing of certain tasks that make sense (don't know which, though).

... Here I go ... into the void ...

Arggghhh! :esad: ...You're undertaking an ambitious task but not an undo-able one.

We went down your path a few years back with our '73 E32-II. ...It started with the idea of replacing one forward bulkhead with then noticed water damage around the chain plate. It quickly became the "While we're at it" let's do the other side too and then went on to us removing ALL the bulkheads. The "While we are at it" continued to then include all the electrical, plumbing and reinforcement of our cabin sole in the mast support area to the keel.

I've found that there was no real order in the list due to the "While we are at it" format but, regardless, you do need to be persistent and not become overwhelmed. That being said DO plan ahead as certain things need to or should be done before others - especially when access to projects is easier than with covering project areas back up again. The "While we're at it" now includes moving the electrical panel over to the aft quarter berth with a Blue Seas AC/DC panel, refinishing the headliner, removing all ports and replacing the dried out glass seals, making a sea hood for the companion way hatch, new double life lines and bow pulpit and on and on.

Pulling the mast makes running new wiring much easier to do as we've found out. It then becomes a question of how difficult to get to a yard that can do it and for how much?? With internal halyards, last thing you want is tangled wires and lines. Luckily, our club has a gin-pole as masts are removed yearly for winter storage if we want.

GOOD LUCK Skipper and please DO photo your work and create posts for us on your progress!!
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You gotta love it when a guy who has owned the same Ericson since 1973 reminds us how easy everything is.:)

The lesson for me is, don't look back--and don't keep receipts. And the fun is in the moment and the memories.
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
gin-pole design?

Arggghhh! :esad: ...You're undertaking an ambitious task but not an undo-able one.

We went down your path a few years back with our '73 E32-II. ...It started with the idea of replacing one forward bulkhead with then noticed water damage around the chain plate. It quickly became the "While we're at it" let's do the other side too and then went on to us removing ALL the bulkheads. The "While we are at it" continued to then include all the electrical, plumbing and reinforcement of our cabin sole in the mast support area to the keel.

I've found that there was no real order in the list due to the "While we are at it" format but, regardless, you do need to be persistent and not become overwhelmed. That being said DO plan ahead as certain things need to or should be done before others - especially when access to projects is easier than with covering project areas back up again. The "While we're at it" now includes moving the electrical panel over to the aft quarter berth with a Blue Seas AC/DC panel, refinishing the headliner, removing all ports and replacing the dried out glass seals, making a sea hood for the companion way hatch, new double life lines and bow pulpit and on and on.

Pulling the mast makes running new wiring much easier to do as we've found out. It then becomes a question of how difficult to get to a yard that can do it and for how much?? With internal halyards, last thing you want is tangled wires and lines. Luckily, our club has a gin-pole as masts are removed yearly for winter storage if we want.

GOOD LUCK Skipper and please DO photo your work and create posts for us on your progress!!

Thanks for your encouragement, kapnkd.

You mentioned your club has a gin-pole for mast removal. Can you PM me some info about the design and construction? It's something I've advocated for at our club for a long time - the main stumbling block has always been design (oh, and potential liability, whatever that is). I'm in the last year of a 3-year term as our club's Commodore - maybe I have just enough clout to push this though before the end of the year. Thanks!
 

kapnkd

kapnkd
You gotta love it when a guy who has owned the same Ericson since 1973 reminds us how easy everything is.:)

The lesson for me is, don't look back--and don't keep receipts. And the fun is in the moment and the memories.

Still laughing! ...As I think back on how thin I WAS and could crawl into all those spaces to work on her! Guess I could and should write a book.

Thing is she’s been a great SOLID boat over the years and her lines didn’t succumb to the obscurity of fad designs or rating rules. Bruce really did a nice job on her to the point I have ALWAYS been proud to be her owner and make her part of our family’s life. The memories and adventures are too countless to ever ad up!

At any rate, even in her refitting we are creating memories that endure. Just messing around in boats regardless of being on the water or in the yard beats any day in the office.
 

oldfauser

Member III
I've decided to refit my E32-3 by the time I retire in 3-5 years, with the aim of bringing it up to a similar standard for offshore cruising as Christian did with Thelonious (I).
I'm going to give myself about 12-18 months to do it because I have limited time at the moment.

--> Is there a rational order in which to approach a phased refit?

I plan to replace the cabin sole - since pulling that up will expose some wiring and a lot of the plumbing (and keel bolts), it seems that might be the best place to start (?)
To replace wiring that's in the mast, can that be done reasonably easily from a boson's chair, or should the mast come down to do it most efficiently?
The biggies I can think of are:
- wiring throughout (incl mast) and circuit board (and replace cabin lights with LED) - I bet some wiring is really hard to get at.
- potable water plumbing
- head plumbing (install new head?)
- replace all through-hulls
- inspect/replace steering cables
- detailed inspection of mast and standing rigging (and rigging attachment points in hull) - consider replacing key standing rigging elements as precaution
- check rudder for water penetration, and replace bearings
- keel bolts (not sure what or how to check, but can find out later)
- clean fuel tank
- complete engine and gearbox service with new hoses and cables as necessary (replace engine mounts? exhaust? new engine gauges?)
- repack stuffing box (replace with better design?); add folding prop
- bring electronics up to 21st century (wind speed and direction gauges; e-charts & navigation; other)

Our club has a railway for short-term haul-out, but no mast crane, and no way to move boat to hard-standing.
There's a commercial boatyard 4 hrs away, where I'd consider strategic outsourcing of certain tasks that make sense (don't know which, though).

... Here I go ... into the void ...

make sure to add - replace all cockpit scupper hoses...
 

nquigley

Sustaining Member
make sure to add - replace all cockpit scupper hoses...
Yes! - actually just discovered a leak from one of them last weekend, so that's a sure sign!
Those air exhaust hoses sure are poor quality - I'm thinking of taking them out altogether.
It's a bit awkward working in the aft lazarette :-\
 

oldfauser

Member III
the worst cockpit scupper hose is...

the one from the "T" that goes under the engine to the through hull under the sink! We're thinking about eliminating it altogether! Ask me in two months how it went..
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
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