Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 34 of 34

Thread: Ericson 32-3 Refrigeration

  1. #31
    Principal Partner
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    San Francisco Bay area
    my question may be a little off the topic but I saw the remark on the "magic wire" and have a question about a wire connected to the DC panel breaker labeled "refrigeration". I have a Frigoboat refer in the port refer space, the second replacement so I dont know if a refer was factory installed. Anyway, the PO must have rewired the refer so it is wired directly to the house battery bank ahead of the main battery switch (with an inline fuse) so the refer is always connected to the battery even if the main battery switch is off. That seems sensible to me, I also have an AC (shore power) connection so that the shore power powers the refer when I am connected to the shore power, also sensible.

    Now I needed to connect a 12 receptacle for charging my iphone and the PO installed such a plug in receptacle but it is not powered when the house bank is switched on, even with all the ckt breakers on. Looking behind the panel, I see that the ground lead for the receptacle is connected properly but the red lead for +12 V is dangling loose. I am looking for a suitable circuit breaker to connect it so I will have a 10A fuse capability but none are "free". I would like to remove the wire going to the "refrigeration" breaker but do not know what this wire does, I have never turned it on, and the refer works fine. In fact some PO put a piece of black tape over the label. Any ideas what the refrigeration wire does or did do

    Also just below this refrigertion breaker, is another breaker with black tape and underneath is the label, "oven". Also this switch has never been turned on and the oven/stove (natural compressed gas fed) works fine.

  2. #32
    Senior Moderator Loren Beach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Portland, OR. Columbia River
    Blog Entries

    Thumbs up

    Regarding the interior size of the factory ice box --
    Best just measure it. The brochure info may be uncorrected, plus or minus. Also, if the cooling capacity of the model you are installing is close, it will probably do just fine.

    Because of hull curvature, our ice box interior molding is shaped like (sort of) a larger upper "box" on top of a lower "box" shape. I measured both sections, in inches. Adding up the resulting cubic inch volumes I had the interior total volume. Empirical methods are best for some things.

    Ours was factory insulated with rigid foam on all sides and the bottom, altho the top lid was only plywood. I added a 1" piece of foil-face rigid insulation under the lid and also a thin foam gasket under the lid flange to stop air and moisture from sneaking in and adding to the ice buildup on the evaporator.

    I also added some closed cell foam around the 3 sides of the outside that I could, with difficulty, reach from under the counter. Long arms and modest swearing will be needed.
    These are details that do add up to more efficiency.

    We have an RF remote temp readout (often on sale for about $12.) at Camping World, and can monitor the inside fridge temp while sitting at the nav. desk. Normally about 38 degrees F.
    Enjoying our fridge for well over a decade, we would probably place this "luxury" at the top of the comfort and convenience list for boat projects.
    It really changes being aboard to Living vs Camping out.
    1988 Olson 34 #8
    Sail # 28400
    Betamarine 25 (new 2018)
    Fresh Air
    Portland, OR USA

  3. #33
    Principal Partner GrandpaSteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Downingtown, Pa.
    Quote Originally Posted by gabriel View Post
    Have you considered maybe just a portable DC fridge? The good ones aren't cheap (about the same price as the unit you're looking at) but it keep the sodas so cold that when I open them they instantly freeze (you can turn it down)! they'll also freeze fish rock hard. draws no more than 2.5 amps with no peak voltage and can operate in vibration and 30 degrees inclination. compressor/motor only has one single moving part. Engle fridge.
    Here is what I ended up doing (photos taken before the wires were tidy):
    1987 E32-III "Glory Days"
    Hull #711
    Slip in Rock Hall MD.
    Home in Downingtown PA.

  4. #34
    Makes Up For It With Enthusiasm Geoff W.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Seattle, WA
    Blog Entries
    Tried adding the foam insulation to the fridge yesterday, as shown here:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20190609_175410.jpg 
Views:	24 
Size:	40.8 KB 
ID:	27202

    I thought it was a pretty slick fit but after running the fridge all night (empty) the top rack shows 25F... The bottom is even colder. not sustainable.

    Maybe I need to try a different thermostat controller? Not sure how modular these things are, but it's frustrating having to do a dance of constant monitoring with the freeze plate.
    Last edited by Geoff W.; 06-10-2019 at 08:57 AM.
    s/v "Delightful"
    1987 E32-3
    Hull #712

Similar Threads

  1. Need some refrigeration help, please
    By Frank Langer in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 11-12-2010, 02:14 PM
  2. E34 refrigeration
    By jdeboer in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-10-2007, 03:43 PM
  3. refrigeration
    By Kim Schoedel in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 04-10-2006, 12:13 PM
  4. Refrigeration
    By Kim Schoedel in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-09-2006, 03:52 PM
  5. Ericson 38-200 Refrigeration
    By oceandreams89 in forum Maintenance & Mechanical
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-01-2004, 08:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts