Universal Engine 5432 Parts Source

I completed the final winterizing steps of my E38 yesterday and drained out the heat exchanger. In the process I identified the cover plate gasket was totally shot. So I'm now in the process of ordering up spare parts for the engine, impeller, sacrifical anode, heat exchanger gasket etc. Some of the parts I can source from Defender. But, any suggestions on the best place to order spare parts from for the engine such as heat exchanger gaskets etc?

Spare Parts

For Parts that can not be cross referenced to the OEM suppliers I always use <cite class="_Rm">hansenmarine.com
Great service good prices
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KWay said:

For Parts that can not be cross referenced to the OEM suppliers I always use <cite class="_Rm">hansenmarine.com
Great service good prices
</cite>

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Perfect thanks - exactly what I'm looking for.

I ordered my Universal Parts from Torrensen Marine (http://torresen.com/), so you might keep them in mind as a backup.

Here is the Universal to Kubota parts code, possible big savings:

(I haven't used this information myself)

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...241-Universal-5432-amp-M40-engine-information

Last weekend boat was finally covered up and winterized.

So the next project on the winter to do list is to remove the heat exchanger and clean it out (pickling?) - any suggestions welcome. I'm probably going to repaint it in the process and wondering what the official paint color is for the universal engine? I'm guessing a spray can of high temp gold enamel from HD or an auto parts store should be OK.

I also had the bottom stripped a few weeks by a professional soda blaster (used crushed walnut shell) in preparation for a new barrier coat next spring. Cost ~$2,500. For bottom glass repairs, fairing, and 2 barrier coat applications and first bottom coat has an estimate of ~ $4,000

No kidding on the meaning of BOAT= Break Out Another Thousand.




Cheers,
Mike

Nice looking boat!

Universal bronze is the color for the engines, but many heat exchangers are different colors and any engine enamel paint should work. Since you will have it off, at least clean it out with 50% vinegar solution to remove the scale.

The best thing to do with the heat exchanger is take it to a radiator shop and have them clean it. They put it in a solution specifically designed to clean out the scale and other crud in the small tubes of radiators. I had this done this season and was amazed at the results. Aside from the tubes visually looking cleaner, the engine ran noticeably cooler. They also painted it. It was done in a few days and cost about $90. Well worth it.

Dave

Radiator shop- Yes!

Took mine to a radiator shop too for cleaning and pressure testing. Cost about $70.


HX before cleaning



HX after cleaning



HX cap before cleaning


HX cap after cleaning


Custom heat exchanger. This is placed high on a bulkhead with an overflow tank connected to the top of the vertical riser. Serves to remove air trapped in engine and hot water system. The end cap appears to be made out of an old bronze fire standpipe cap. This sucker is heavy!

Nice! Now take it to that chrome plating shop I used in SE Portland, and have it chromed all "custom" and shiny!

An alternative to taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is to soak it in CLR and rinse it through with CLR and water a few times. This is what our excellent local marine diesel mechanic recommended to me a few years ago. It worked perfectly! We used engine paint afterward and it came out like new.
We also did the soda blasting and barrier coating. Don't forget to close the through hulls before they do the soda blasting. The barrier coating is something that is easy to do yourself though a bit time consuming. You will likely first have to sand the waterline manually. It requires several coats but it will save you several thousand dollars to do it yourself.
Good luck!
Mike Jacker

Joliba said:

An alternative to taking the heat exchanger to a radiator shop is to soak it in CLR and rinse it through with CLR and water a few times. This is what our excellent local marine diesel mechanic recommended to me a few years ago. It worked perfectly! We used engine paint afterward and it came out like new.
We also did the soda blasting and barrier coating. Don't forget to close the through hulls before they do the soda blasting. The barrier coating is something that is easy to do yourself though a bit time consuming. You will likely first have to sand the waterline manually. It requires several coats but it will save you several thousand dollars to do it yourself.
Good luck!
Mike Jacker

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Yup, CLR will absolutely work just fine. BUT, please don't leave it in too long or you may start to dissolve the welds along with the calcite!

Kubota L285

I found far less expensive replacements from a tractor dealer when ordering for a Kubota L285 which is the same block as the 5432. My water pump bearing went out in MDR and the only shop in town that had one wanted a pretty penny. Overnight shipping on two was about 1/3 the price from a tractor parts store in Texas.