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E27 Hatch Repair before Varnishing

lonokai

Member III
The attached photos indicate a wood veneer delaminating from the surface of what I believe is marine plywood on the underside of my Ericsson 27's hatch.

I have read numerous posts about repairing the hatch...does anyone have a suggestion on what kind of epoxy would be best to repair this? I would be "gluing" new veneer after sanding down the surface of the exposed plywood underside.

Thanks

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lonokai

Member III
And by the way...if you take your hatch and companionway slats home, do you cover it with (something) and just leave the boat unsecured [for the weekend]?
 

Navman

Member III
hatch board

I worked on mine during this past summer. As I was going to be away all week, I was concerned with weather and security.I took a piece of cardboard down to the boat with a homemade bevel gauge. I traced and cut out the cardboard to fit on the interior side of the hatch board slot. I then used the bevel gauge to get the top angle where it transitions to the deck and traced it on the cardboard and marked it "top angle". Did the same for the bottom. Took it home, cut it out of 3/4 plywood, Put the bevel on top and bottom, sanded & painted it and put on a cheap hasp. Worked great, kept the boat secure, and I now have a spare hatch board for when I take home my hatch boards to oil and varnish!

Easy as pie...? That and a "piece of cake" are guaranteed to get you in trouble.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
I talked recently to Steve Smith about this, since I have delaminated floorboards in need of rebuilding.

The best ting to use for this specific purpose is laminating epoxy (see this page http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html )

It wicks in from the edge of the lamination.

Liberally coat, inject etc into the delamination, then cover with heavy (4 mill or so) plastic* both sides. Clamp to something strong, like 3/4 ply, top and bottom, and cut to the same size so lots of clamps can be uised.

Don't trim the plastic close, because the epoxy will ooze out onto it and not the floor.

When cured, trim edges.

Then coat with CPES -- clear penetrating epoxy. That's not an adhesive, but a rot preventer.

Then finish for UV proection--varnish or something.

*Home Depot sells plastic painter drop cloths that should work, I think they're 3.5 mill.

Leaving the boat, I just tape plastic over missing hatches unless it's going to storm. Not a good idea if you happen to have anything worth stealing below.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
You have to enjoy the Smith Penetrating Epoxy Web site, if only because it ends with the ringing sentence, "Steve Smith is a genius."

But, as I say, he answers the phone. I like taking advantage of natural phenomena, like the Grand Canyon or Steve. So have a pencil ready. Be prepared to be corrected. Stand by for a data stream.

The world is delaminating and Steve, as a physicist, has chosen to repair it.

Also, he has invented a better Nicorette and air-to-air missiles.

Entropy, they call it--the tendency of any organized system to fall apart, philosophically, morally and physically, the moment it is born.

But not any more.

http://www.consultingscientist.us/downloads/Scientist.pdf
 

toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
BTW, if you go back to the very first story... "Consulting Scientist" was Sherlock Holmes' official title.
So it's been done.
I generally use "Intellectual Prostitute."

/hijack
 

lonokai

Member III
Christian,

Have you ever used this for repair of the deck as Steve indicates on his website?

6) Examine the hull exterior and look for places where the glass has been chipped or scratched to the laminate. If you find them, dry thoroughly (maybe a hair dryer?) and then treat with CPES™. The CPES™ will penetrate further through the glass substrate than any other epoxy product we know of. Treat at least 3 times, allowing 24 hours between treatments. Allow the glass to absorb all the CPES™ it will. After the final treatment allow a few days of cure time and then apply our Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler to smooth off. Paint the area for final finish. Be careful of gel coat over epoxy. Remember that polyester resins do not adhere well to epoxy, unless the epoxy is free of amine blush and is a bit rough. For small dings in the gel coat, CPES™ is not required and a standard gel coat repair kit can be used to finish.

And two other questions...regarding the application of the CPES AFTER the use of the laminating epoxy: How does CPES penetrate the hardened epoxy? Steve's website seems to indicate that CPES is applied first. Or am I overthinking this. And, do you use a respirator?

I talked recently to Steve Smith about this, since I have delaminated floorboards in need of rebuilding.

The best ting to use for this specific purpose is laminating epoxy (see this page http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html )

It wicks in from the edge of the lamination.

Liberally coat, inject etc into the delamination, then cover with heavy (4 mill or so) plastic* both sides. Clamp to something strong, like 3/4 ply, top and bottom, and cut to the same size so lots of clamps can be uised.

Don't trim the plastic close, because the epoxy will ooze out onto it and not the floor.

When cured, trim edges.

Then coat with CPES -- clear penetrating epoxy. That's not an adhesive, but a rot preventer.

Then finish for UV proection--varnish or something.

*Home Depot sells plastic painter drop cloths that should work, I think they're 3.5 mill.

Leaving the boat, I just tape plastic over missing hatches unless it's going to storm. Not a good idea if you happen to have anything worth stealing below.
 
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Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
No experience with #6.

You're right, CPES can't penetrate epoxy, or even paint. In my delamination case, Smith said forget the CPES, just get it back together. That is contrary to all other instructions, including those on the can, but I think it was just a practical matter.

Later I did paint CPES on remaining porous plywood.

I do use a 3M respirator with P100 cartridges. CPES is bad stuff, so is spraying modern yacht enamels. I also (try to remember to) use it when sanding, which seems harmless enough. The other day a local building contractor stopped his truck when he noticed me in the driveway, just working some plywood, and asked where the respirator was. "That glue is full of formaldehyde," he said. "It's not just sawdust."

It's not just theoretical. It can take days after an interior boat-sanding project in close quarters to recover from a dizzy, coughy period. I eventually put two and two together.
 

lonokai

Member III
Thanks,

I'm ordering a bunch of stuff from him this coming week...

Projects


No experience with #6.

You're right, CPES can't penetrate epoxy, or even paint. In my delamination case, Smith said forget the CPES, just get it back together. That is contrary to all other instructions, including those on the can, but I think it was just a practical matter.

Later I did paint CPES on remaining porous plywood.

I do use a 3M respirator with P100 cartridges. CPES is bad stuff, so is spraying modern yacht enamels. I also (try to remember to) use it when sanding, which seems harmless enough. The other day a local building contractor stopped his truck when he noticed me in the driveway, just working some plywood, and asked where the respirator was. "That glue is full of formaldehyde," he said. "It's not just sawdust."

It's not just theoretical. It can take days after an interior boat-sanding project in close quarters to recover from a dizzy, coughy period. I eventually put two and two together.
 
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