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O Ring size

Dan Callen

Contributing Member III
Does anyone know the O ring size that fits in the rudder cap in your cock pit. The cap that has the two holes and the wire wrench to remove it. I figured Christian might have the answer as he knows a lot about this model boat. This question has been posted before but I could not find any answers. Thanks, Dan Callen 1989 Ericson 32-3 3753 Andiamo
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Maybe my plate is supposed to have an O-ring, but it doesn't. I grease the threads and have not noticed any leaks.

1-rudder post.jpg
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
The grease might work ...

You will be able to find an o-ring that will fit and keep the water out. Just make the measurement and go to your local hardware or auto store. I found one that is the correct diameter to go around the cap, but was not small enough to let the cap fit flush. Not a problem.

However, the ring with the 4 screws is a potential leak problem. You might want to rebed it if you haven't lately. Mine turned out to be leaking long-term. As a result I am repairing the double cored plywood/fiberglass floor under there, in a place I can barely reach.

Good luck.
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
>>>the ring with the 4 screws is a potential leak problem. You might want to rebed it if you haven't lately.

You bet. And while under there in that very confined space, put double nuts and lock washers on those 4 machine screws. They tend to loosen under the working of the rudder post, and tightening them is a two-person job best done as infrequently as possible.

More on this particular fitting:

Look at the top photo above and note the wear point on the cap.

This was the result of the top of the rudder post wobbling unseen under the cap, and getting so far out of true that it gouged the cap. Unscrewing the cap was difficult because the top of the post was jammed into it.

You can't see this happening by just observing the plate. The plate never moves and its bedding to the deck remains firm.

AS it happens, those four machine screws not only hold the fitting to the deck, they also hold the (separate) top bearing of the rudder post.

Should they loosen, the deck plate remains firm but the bearing underneath drops a bit and wobbles unrestrained. And with it, the rudder post.

In fact, if the deck screws are loose, when you go belowdecks and put your hand on the bearing, it may be completely loose and about to fall off.

And you'd never know it from the cockpit.

The test is whether the screws can be easily turned with a phillips head--or if you notice them moving when you turn the steering wheel.

The fix is awkward but easy--just tighten them up.
 
Last edited:

tenders

Innocent Bystander
I rebuilt the entire cockpit sole of my 32 a few years ago. It was obvious that the balsa core had become saturated and rotted from two sources, both round fittings with four bolts that had leaked: the fitting around the rudderpost (on my boat it's still used as the tiller), and the gas tank fill.
 

footrope

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Clarification: 32 v 38

Just to clarify, I have a 38 and the configuration of the 32 may be different. I have 4 large bolts, arranged in a rectangle, that are 3/8" in diameter and they hold the rudder's upper bearing fitting in place in the cockpit floor. On the 38, I also have four screws similar to those pictured in Dan's photo and they are quite short, about #8 x 3/4", and they just hold the little ring in place. It's good to bed that correctly, regardless of your configuration.

Attached is a photo of my cockpit floor with the rudder bearing removed. You can see all 8 holes and their relative size. I had leakage from the aft two 3/8" bolts and, as a result, two layers of rotted plywood for about half the circumference of the 3.5" diameter hole in the sole. I also had leaks into the engine bilge from this, which I couldn't find, and had been bugging me since I bought the boat 11 years ago.

The second photo is the bearing before getting cleaned up. About 10 pounds of bronze.

Rudder_upper_bearing010-cockpit.jpgRudder_upper_bearing005-top.jpg

Christian's and tenders' horror stories are the real thing. I have only lived a small part of them.
 

markvone

Sustaining Member
Dan,

If you still need an O-ring. Here's a link with a source I used for deck fill o-rings:

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoex...ck-Fill-O-rings!&p=84675&highlight=#post84675

All you need is the ID and thickness of the o-ring. I'd used BUNA-N (Nitrile). The OD of the cover in the o-ring location will be the ID (I'm guessing 4 inches - is that a "4" on the underside of the cover plate?) The thickness of the deck fill O-rings is 3/32, which is a good size to start with. You can see what 3/32 looks like in the picture in the link above for reference. At the price they sell for (a 4" x 3/32 is $0.15), you can get many thickness variations and experiment for less than the shipping cost of $5.

And lube them up with Silicone grease as Glyn suggested, every Spring and Fall.

Mark
 

Dan Callen

Contributing Member III
O ring

Maybe my plate is supposed to have an O-ring, but it doesn't. I grease the threads and have not noticed any leaks.

View attachment 16067
Christian Thanks for your input regarding the O ring. I will probably put some grease on the existing O ring and see if that will suffice. I have owned the boat since 1989 and have been it's only owner so I am familiar with a lot of it's issues as well. I will check the four screws you referred to but I feel I am ok there. One thing I do is annually grease both the upper and lower bearings which I think has eliminated some of the rudder post problems. A lot of owners do not know these even exist and that may be why so much wear can be found in that area. Another issue I ran into is the packing adjustment collar on the rudder post. They have very small machine screws and I found one of mine was stripped and could not be adjusted so I replaced it with a thru bolt and a nylock nut.
 

John Denlinger

Junior Member
O Ring for rudder post?

So should it be a 4" ID 3/32 O Ring? Having fun getting groan out of rudder

>>>the ring with the 4 screws is a potential leak problem. You might want to rebed it if you haven't lately.

You bet. And while under there in that very confined space, put double nuts and lock washers on those 4 machine screws. They tend to loosen under the working of the rudder post, and tightening them is a two-person job best done as infrequently as possible.

More on this particular fitting:

Look at the top photo above and note the wear point on the cap.

This was the result of the top of the rudder post wobbling unseen under the cap, and getting so far out of true that it gouged the cap. Unscrewing the cap was difficult because the top of the post was jammed into it.

You can't see this happening by just observing the plate. The plate never moves and its bedding to the deck remains firm.

AS it happens, those four machine screws not only hold the fitting to the deck, they also hold the (separate) top bearing of the rudder post.

Should they loosen, the deck plate remains firm but the bearing underneath drops a bit and wobbles unrestrained. And with it, the rudder post.

In fact, if the deck screws are loose, when you go belowdecks and put your hand on the bearing, it may be completely loose and about to fall off.

And you'd never know it from the cockpit.

The test is whether the screws can be easily turned with a phillips head--or if you notice them moving when you turn the steering wheel.

The fix is awkward but easy--just tighten them up.
 
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