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E 38-200 yard projects

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Just finished an exhausting but productive 1.5 week haul out. Here's a list of what we did, partly because I'm stoked on our work and partly in case anyone needs more info on any of this. I'll post pics etc later.

Replaced through hulls and seacocks in galley and head with Forespar Series 93.
Removed and glassed over one through hull in head.
Added through hulls for brine discharge and manual bilge pump.
Installed below-deck manual bilge pump.
Installed 1000gph electric bilge pump and switch.
Bottom paint and raised water line almost 4"
Installed new prop shaft and coupling.
Dropped, inspected, and reinstalled rudder and steering gear (radial drive).
Installed Max Prop 3-blade easy.
Installed line cutter.
Checked engine alignment.
Installed PSS dripless shaft seal.
Added two additional 1 1/2" cockpit drains (with their own through hulls).
Tightened keel bolts.
Repaired "keel crack".
Installed Forespar strainer for engine sea water intake.
Replaced most hoses connected to seacocks.
Replaced exhaust hose between engine and muffler.
Painted bilges under sinks and prop shaft.
Modified aft cabin hanging locker to prepare for watermaker install.
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Wow, that's alot of work for one week!! But I can imagine that's pretty exciting to get all that done on your boat!

One caution: I've always read that engine alignment needs to be checked/fine tuned with the boat in the water, because the hull flexes differently and things settle. So you may want to re-check it in a few days after it's launched. Checking it is quite easy...adjusting the alignment is a real pain if it's needed. My understanding is that Ericson specs call for it to be within .002 on all four measurements, which can be hard to achieve.

Frank
 

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Wow, that's alot of work for one week!! But I can imagine that's pretty exciting to get all that done on your boat!

One caution: I've always read that engine alignment needs to be checked/fine tuned with the boat in the water, because the hull flexes differently and things settle. So you may want to re-check it in a few days after it's launched. Checking it is quite easy...adjusting the alignment is a real pain if it's needed. My understanding is that Ericson specs call for it to be within .002 on all four measurements, which can be hard to achieve.

Frank

Thanks Frank. We checked alignment before and after she was in the water (after 24 hours) down to .003 without even a hit of gap. I was happy with that.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Wow Ryan, you're really making that boat special!

I'd be interested in seeing your thru hull installations. Why did you glass over one, was it replaced?
 

Joliba

1988 E38-200 Contributing Member
Ryan,
Sounds as though you got through it as quickly as you had hoped and got it all done. Incredible! I'm looking forward to seeing it all someday. Which electric bilge pump did you install and where did you mount it? What initial pitch did you select for your prop? What diameter is it? Did you solve the question of reliable forward gear engagement in your transmission while using your shift lever? And, when do you declare your "to do list" complete?
Mike
 

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Wow Ryan, you're really making that boat special!

I'd be interested in seeing your thru hull installations. Why did you glass over one, was it replaced?

Forespar Series 93 valves and seacocks have many available configurations including one brilliant set up that has two 90 degree hose barbs built into the seacock. It allows you to connect two hoses to one valve without any tailpieces or other connection points. I ran the head discharge and tank discharge to one valve. With a Y-valve on the head line and a pump on the tank line there is no backflow from one to the other. The waste picks the path of least resistance, namely overboard (when in an appropriate area.) These valves can be maintained from within the boat without removing hoses. This allowed us to get rid of the wonky PVC elbows Ericson attached to the through hulls AND eliminate one through hull completely.

I'll try to remember to take better pics sometime soon but here's some of the work in progress and a link to the S93 valves. The white disc-looking things in the center of the handles are plugs (with o-rings) sized to fit in the through hull. The little loop on them is useful to tie off wooden bungs.

http://www.forespar.com/OEM-Valves.shtml

IMG_3863.jpg
 
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Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Ryan,
Sounds as though you got through it as quickly as you had hoped and got it all done. Incredible!

Incredibly tired! :)

I'm looking forward to seeing it all someday.

Word

Which electric bilge pump did you install and where did you mount it?

It's a Johnson 1000gph "cartridge" bilge pump. The guts of the pump can be easily cleaned and/or swapped out without having to reinstall the mount. I mounted a terminal block to make it easy to swap pumps in a pinch. The pump specs 3/4" hose so it can be connected to existing bilge pump discharge hose. I removed the OEM pump and switch then mounted the new pump midline in the "main" bilge (where the old pump intake was). It fits perfectly between the keelbolts on the aft side of that small bilge. The Johnson float switch fits sideways on the forward size of the same compartment. We installed a vented loop on the forward side of the galley cabinet behind the drawers (where you have that bitchin pull out garbage thing.)

http://www.westmarine.com/johnson-pump--cartridge-bilge-pumps--P011_330_001_541

What initial pitch did you select for your prop?

I dunno, whatever it came with from the factory. But after sea trials it's clearly a bit over pitched. I'll probably adjust it later this week.

What diameter is it?

Off the top of my head I think 16" (but I'm not 100% sure of that)

Did you solve the question of reliable forward gear engagement in your transmission while using your shift lever?

Mechanic and ZF people said not a problem as long as solid "click" when manually shifting at the point where cable connects to transmission. We'll see.

And, when do you declare your "to do list" complete?
Mike

Never, but that won't stop us... :)
 

ddoles

Member III
Ryan,

Sounds like some great upgrades. I bought an E38-200 last year and a project on my list is to install a raw water intake strainer. I am still amazed that there isn't one installed. What model strainer did you use and how did you size it? My engine is an M-50, as I understand this is bigger than the standard on most e-38s. Also, where did you mount it? Pics would be a great help if you can post.

Dave
 

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Answers

Ryan,

Sounds like some great upgrades. I bought an E38-200 last year and a project on my list is to install a raw water intake strainer. I am still amazed that there isn't one installed. What model strainer did you use and how did you size it? My engine is an M-50, as I understand this is bigger than the standard on most e-38s. Also, where did you mount it? Pics would be a great help if you can post.

Dave

Hi Dave - Congrats on buying one of the best sailboats ever made! When we purchased our boat she had a Groco strainer installed on the aft wall of the engine compartment. We moved it to under the sink. That allowed us to greatly shorten the hose from the intake and it made it much easier to clean the strainer. During the recent yard visit we replaced the Groco unit with a T-150 strainer from Forespar.

http://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-water-strainer-thru-hull.shtml

The Forespar unit has much larger intake/output openings and requires less connections and fittings for our hose run. From talking with the Forespar people it can handle a significantly greater flow of water than what our engines require. It's also much lighter, has a more secure mount, has no corrosion issues, and can be cleaned without any additional tools (as compared to the Groco unit). Marelon is more than strong enough for this application. So far the new strainer is working exceptionally well (as are the valves and seacocks).

Here is a pic of the strainer and some of the other under-sink plumbing we're working on. When mounted in this location the top of the strainer is just about at the waterline. If that's a concern of yours you may want to raise it six inches or so.

plumbing.jpg
 

ddoles

Member III
Ryan,

Thanks for the photo, it looks great. I was thinking this would be the right place to mount it especially for easy access. Now I'm motivated to get this one crossed off the list.

Dave
 

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Ryan,

Thanks for the photo, it looks great. I was thinking this would be the right place to mount it especially for easy access. Now I'm motivated to get this one crossed off the list.

Dave

Another idea- when we installed the strainer we also replaced the hose leading to the pump. Major pain in the ass. To make it MUCH easier we used a multi-tool saw to cut an access panel partly under the bottom step of the ladder. I'll take a pic next time if I remember but it ended up being very useful for a few different runs (wire and hose). Cosmetically it's fine, looks almost like the boat came that way. The engine cover helps hold it in place in case of knockdown.
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Forespar Series 93 valves and seacocks have many available configurations including one brilliant set up that has two 90 degree hose barbs built into the seacock. It allows you to connect two hoses to one valve without any tailpieces or other connection points. I ran the head discharge and tank discharge to one valve. With a Y-valve on the head line and a pump on the tank line there is no backflow from one to the other. The waste picks the path of least resistance, namely overboard (when in an appropriate area.) These valves can be maintained from within the boat without removing hoses. This allowed us to get rid of the wonky PVC elbows Ericson attached to the through hulls AND eliminate one through hull completely.

I'll try to remember to take better pics sometime soon but here's some of the work in progress and a link to the S93 valves. The white disc-looking things in the center of the handles are plugs (with o-rings) sized to fit in the through hull. The little loop on them is useful to tie off wooden bungs.

http://www.forespar.com/OEM-Valves.shtml

View attachment 14553

Finally saw this Ryan. Very nice! A great idea too!
 
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