• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

E34 Engine Pull and Refurbishment

cawinter

Member III
First of all: Shoutout to Sean, who deserves the Golden Horns as a prize for keeping all of this going! Awesome job and THANKS AGAIN!!!

To summarize and to put the thread back out there, we have successfully pulled the engine from my E34 while on the hard and with onboard means. Lots of pictures (including of my g/f helping) were lost. Plan is to replace the HBW50 transmission (rebuild after fwd gear was shot), replace oil pan, and a few other things before putting it all back together.

The transmission is now with Hansen in Marblehead. A great town, btw!

The engine is awaiting parts orders (Universal for some parts; KUBOTA D950 for the bulk of it).

I'll keep everyone posted as we go on. Please bug me for more details or the pictures.
 

rjanders

Member I
Engine removal

I would love to see the photos as well, I am thinking of pulling my engine this winter and doing a rebuild.
 

cawinter

Member III
Here we go Part 1

Sorry that the original thread was lost. I'd be happy to go into details, but the essence is (so far) that getting the engine out is relatively easy. We were on the hard since I never relaunched after Sandy. Perfect time to surrender to my obsessive compulsive side, using the shot transmission as a good excuse.:nerd:

Here are the pictures from the extraction. Easy to do with the halyard and the setup as seen. The boom caries NO load other than a bit of compression; just watch your boom paint better than we did.IMG_0436.jpgIMG_0439.jpgIMG_0441.jpgEngine Hoist Setup Detail.jpgIMG_0455.jpg

I pulled the transmission away from the bell housing, and it is now with Hansen in beautiful Marblehead for a full rebuild. Fwd was completely shot, and they confirmed that pretty much everyone is due sooner or later. Took my boat about 25 years.

I am planning on redoing most of the major external things (minus core rebuild), such as replacing the badly rusted oil pan, etc., and I'll keep updating this log for the benefit of everyone, especially the cheerful E34 crowd. :)
 

cawinter

Member III
Chris, hard to tell from the photos, but do you still have the old alternator bracket?

Yes, I assume so. You can't see it in the picture. I had the alternator, starter, heat exchanger removed to lighten the load given that we only had a 4:1 block and tackle. The line gets long quickly, especially when lowering it from that height.

In the meantime, I also removed the pretty teak panel (nothing behind it). They must have screwed the filter, lift pump, and the the two bilge pumps to the panel BEFORE mounting it on the stbd side. My FACET fuel pump (new 10 years ago) has a weep, and the bilge pump will be replaced with the old one as spare. I had completely removed the in-head shower along with the second pump; we shower off the stern (other post). Will look nice and clean with plenty of room to change the primary filter bowl. With the R20S (?) I needed more space anyway. In the course of all this work, I sucked out another 1.5 sqft of sound proofing material. Real shoddy stuff! We had replaced most of the material about 13 years ago but could not reach behind the engine.
 

cawinter

Member III

Stu,
Thanks for the note! Phew! I have the new one. BUT I did notice that the through-bolted attachment point at the top of the alternator (sort of like a U with a large bolt holding the alternator up and in) was cracked on one side. I'll have it welded. Funny, I looked at older pictures of my engine (yes, yes, I do this ever so often as part of a project :rolleyes:), and I did not see it in any of them. Hmmm. Worth checking, I guess.

Thanks again!
 

cawinter

Member III
Transmission back!

The Hansens just returned my HBW50. I had to go for the rebuild since I could not find another one that would fit with my flex coupling and without moving the engine forward. The results look stunningly pretty though! They did a full rebuild plus replaced the dipstick, which had been cross-threaded before I bought Dangriga 15 years ago. Nice coat of gold paint, too. The sticker? About $1,300 with shipping. Yikes! A little more than I had planned on, but the labor made up almost 1/2 of that amount, and the results are hopefully such that I won't have to do this again EVER...

Rest of the work is still in planning but progressing. The engine control panels are definitely NLA (still waiting for Dennis to give me a quote for a potential one-off), and I am assessing a couple of Aluminum panel options (flat, not recessed) or to make my own out of fiberglass matt and West System products. Oh well. Nice to have the long winter ahead...:)
 

cawinter

Member III
Update

No ranting about the weather in the North East this year, on the other hand it IS a good excuse for the slow progress! After all, you can't think 'boat' when you are shoveling and shivering all the time... :rolleyes:

Most of the engine parts are ordered. Water Pump, injectors, glow plugs, various little things, gaskets, etc. I did a lot of research and ended up going basically to Messicks with my Kubota D950 manual and a parts list. The one problem that remains is the oil pan, which I am looking to replace. As mentioned elsewhere, the Universal pan is over $400 (Torresen); the Kubota is around $60. Only trick is the diptube, which is on the engine block in the Kubota, and therefore the pan doesn't have a hole. Might be worth spending the $60 and then drilling out the hole and attaching the old diptube. Look at the prices if you really want to warm up during the winter.:mad: I am still working with Kubota NA to see if they will reveal any secrets.

Engine mounts from PYI are in, too. 3x the heavier ones (70-200lb?). As I read the Vetus reviews, I opted for the stiffer PYIs. We'll see. They look very nice like everything I bought from those folks.

All wiring I ordered from Bestboatwire. Great supplier! New gauges etc. came from Defender. I now need to finish the control panel design (frontpanelsdirect.com) with all my new switches, buttons, LEDs etc. and then wire up the new panel. I made some modifications, added a sensing wire for the bilge pump, etc. All reasonable and conservative...meaning non-radical. An ammeter just doesn't make sense! I will be using slick Arctic Teleflex gauges for everything.

Since I had the 'wall' down before when I rebuilt the plumbing system, my plan is to do that again and properly wire up everything to the engine room. While at it, I KNOW I will again be haunted by visions of Tom and his leaking fuel fill hose (which I didn't replace last time). We'll see if I get around to it this year.

A slow grind, but feeling modestly positive that I can get all of this back together by Memorial Day. :nerd: Ok. Now back to the shovels.
 

cawinter

Member III
Makes my day...

Quick update to warm the hearts of the NE sailing crowd: I just received the Front Panel Direct panel and started to piece it all together last night. Pretty! Everything came out within specs (well within the .1 mm I had accounted for) and as expected. Great outfit! About $140 incl. everything.

I'd be happy to share the CAD file, details and parts lists if anyone is interested.

Wiring starts tonight. I ordered most things from Bestboatwire.com, incl. great heat shrink terminals. Still a fair amount of money, but I could'nt find anything better/cheaper.
Panel Front.jpg
 

cawinter

Member III
Everything...

3mm Aluminum panel, all holes, rounded corners and edges, anodized and shipping/handling. It came in a box on a thick cardboard sheet, completely welded in with plastic. Throughout the manufacturing process you can see the status online. I had called to make sure that some of my dimensions made sense and were machinable, and a very friendly person told me that there is a technical review step in their process that flags any potential production problems (e.g., holes too close together or on the edge, material to thin, etc.) Just a great company!
[To confirm, I have no personal interest in the company.]
 

cawinter

Member III
Sweet!

Lucky Dog,

Who made this one? Price? I had asked around without much success, including a source from the Catalina site, and then decided to go Aluminium. With many of our boats getting up there in age, I would think that a good number of folks are looking at their beat-up panels and their dubious-looking wiring...
 

robjpowell

Member II
Wiring starts tonight. I ordered most things from Bestboatwire.com, incl. great heat shrink terminals. Still a fair amount of money, but I could'nt find anything better/cheaper.
[/QUOTE]

I had not come across Best BoatWire.com so looked them up. Interestingly I believe this is the same company as http://www.genuinedealz.com. The only differences seem to be a prominent 'Free Shipping in the US' on Genuine DealZ. Also the 2 addresses are right next door to each other on New Jesup Highway in Brunswick GA ! I have used Genuine DealZ for years and had good service.
 

Lucky Dog

Member III
I had it made by a friend of mine with a laser engraver/cutter. I refinished the fiberglass frame. I think it was around 75. The blue matches my top sides. It won't delaminate and the color is on back side.
 
Last edited:

cawinter

Member III
Update

Ahhh, the joys of ownership.

We're making good progress, or so I keep telling myself. Most of the Kubota parts actually fit the engine (parts list forthcoming), however two areas are causing more than the usual headaches:

- Damper plate: The old plate inside the flywheel had a lot of rattle and was badly rusted. I looked into the PYI R&D products, having other PYI stuff installed on my drive train and loving it. There seems to a philosophical debate between those favoring springs and those believing that the polyethylene (?) ring in the R&Ds is ok. Lots written about it. I have been running with the poly flex coupling for years, and I went PYI. Still working with Jason there on the right part...perhaps the 22W16?
- Head: The head gasket, upon closer inspection had some oil weepage, and injector 1 had a bit of leakage, too. I decided to have the head machined and will now, of course, have to replace all the respective gaskets. Again: Kubota $54 and Universal $160 just for the head gasket! :mad: More work coming.

OTOH, water pump, injectors, glow plugs, etc. all fit, and we even got the oil pan problem fixed. Use Kubota, drill hole and weld on fittling to receive the diptube and stick. $60 vs. $400+. :rolleyes: Done!

BTW, I found what must be one of the last radiator boil shops here in NJ. They are (understandably) coming under a lot of pressure from the EPA etc.. The exchanger was last cleaned in 2001, and I had quite abit of crud inside (raw-water channels). Definitely worth the effort to have it cleaned! In the future, like 10 years from now :egrin: I might try to do this myself with hot vinegar...

Electrics are progressing but slowly. The cables from BestBoatWire are awesome, as are the shrink-tubing-integrated connectors. Prices were excellent, too.

Time is ticking, even here in the NE...
 

cawinter

Member III
Flywheel and Damper

To update my previous post:

Turns out the damper plate that was mounted on the flywheel (Sachs 1866-050-002; 10 teeth, 23x29-10N hub; Diameter 122mm) cannot be replaced by anything R&D. Old picture attached. R&D needs more diameter to have a big-enough poly... disk. After much back-and-forth with Jason A. at PYI, I am returning the RD22W4.

I have also caved in (under pressure from ever-improving weather and my g/f) and purchased the original damper plate (Hansen Marine for about $260). It irked me, being German, that this part sells for that amount here, and I tried my contacts over there without much success except for a few Euros cheaper. Ok. Item settled and no looking back!

BTW, as I understand from Jason, that Westerbeke (and Universal?) have used different damper/flywheel setups even for the M25XP. Not sure how true this is. My recommendation is to really take a close look. With the recess and the 8 bolts there really isn't much choice but go with the original. My 2c.
 

Attachments

  • 20140408_181754.jpg
    20140408_181754.jpg
    82.3 KB · Views: 285
Top