Sizing fuses

How very odd.

Our Maxwell windlass (still in boxes) says the typical working current is 160-180 Amps, yet the Breaker/Isolator that comes with it is only rated at 135 Amps. I'm wondering if they packaged the wrong Breaker/Isolator or why there is such a discrepancy. I'll e-mail them to see what they have to say.

I did order some of the Dual Blue Sea Systems Fuse Blocks and I was going to put a 200 Amp fuse on the windlass circuit but now I'm not sure what size I should be using.

What could be simpler than 12-volt wiring



-Sven

Peak Load

Sven,
I suspect the response that you'll get from "Down Under" is that the quoted load is the starting "surge" load. The 12V motor is starting from zero rpm and alrady has a load on it, has to be a spike in the amps load. These breakers/ isolators typically don't kick out instantly, kind of like a "slow Blow" fuse so that spike is absorbed so to speak.
I think most Windlass manufacturers also tell you to motor ahead as the windlass is retrieving chain so the windlass is no being subjected to the entire anchor load. An amp meter would tell the tale but I suspect when lightly loaded the windlass would pull substantially less than the breaker rating of 135 amps.
Side Question - did you get the Cape Horn fitted yet?

Greg Ross said:

I suspect the response that you'll get from "Down Under" is that the quoted load is the starting "surge" load. The 12V motor is starting from zero rpm and alrady has a load on it, has to be a spike in the amps load. These breakers/ isolators typically don't kick out instantly, kind of like a "slow Blow" fuse so that spike is absorbed so to speak.

Click to expand...

Maybe that's what it means. It does make sense except for their label "typical".

Side Question - did you get the Cape Horn fitted yet?

Click to expand...

It is in the storage unit, it is right after the windlass on the list.

Thanks,



-Sven