Weather Helm - mast tuning

Do you have any info on better rudder designs
for the Olson 34 like possibly that on "Rasberry"
that you mentioned sometime back. I notice Elaine's (ewade)
blog under Design & Function, Olson 34 Reno, projects
that she found someone in Vancouver to build them a new rudder.
She is claiming hers is cavitating and boat rounds up in heavy air.
Wondering what design she is using?

Our Olson 34 even with the shorter rig has a tendency to round up
has a lot of rudder angle most of the time and the rudder seems to "stall out."
Under heavy air we use the No. 3 Genoa, North 3dl, and full flat main. Reefing
the main has not worked too well for our speed.

I tried a longer toggle on the backstay and took up accordingly on the forestay
to pull the mast forward. Result was forward bend in the top tapered section of the mast
as the mast was completely forward in the partners. We took out the backstay
toggle so the mast would be at least straight with no extra backstay pumped up.
We still seem to have excessive weather helm.

Also have a very technical tuning question.
I have a shorter rig since my Olson is an early one
from the Alameda area. Do we probably have the Kenyon 4270HP Mast Section?

To rake my mast forward I need either one or both of 2 things:
I could use the Mast Step Base Plate Adapter No. K-11824 from RigRite.
Or carve some fiberglas out of the forward partner area in the top deck.
Can you estimate the maximum a mast should be raked forward
for a weather helm problem?

If the plate will fit through the floor panel without too much carving it would
have another important benefit. It would raise the mast 3/8 inch higher
to allow for more turnbuckle adjustment. My shrouds are probably stretched
out somewhat, and the turnbuckles need more travel.

Any expertise you could provide on mast tuning would be greatly appreciated.

Steve Jones
Olson 34
Edgewalker
Longview, WA 98632

Steve, I know there is a re-designed rudder for the Olson 911 that the designer Carl Schumacher drew. I heard somewhere that it was based off of or is the same as the Express 37's re-designed rudder. It is deeper and higher aspect than the original and reportedly improves the handling of the boat greatly. I think some Olson 34 owners have gone to it as well.

Good luck!

Then there is this: http://neversealand.downtothesea.org/2009/12/24/temeritys-new-rudder-takes-shape/
and http://neversealand.downtothesea.org/2010/03/21/temeritys-new-rudder/

From the website of the owner of the first and only Olson built Olson 34.

It sure is pretty!

O-34 Rudder

I dragged over the on-line picture and diagram from the "Temerity" site (sometimes links can fail). Nice rudder. I would be interested in the price someday.
Loren

Dealing with Olson 34 Weather Helm

I have an Olson 34 (Baleineau) on SF Bay and deal with strong breezes a lot. There are a couple of things we do de-power the rig and minimize helm. The first is to flatten the sails, or in our case we have sails that are cut flatter than sails used in other areas of the country. The second thing, is to load up on the backstay to further flatten the jib, but more importantly bend the mast and flatten the entry of the main. These two things help us the most to de-power.

Other things that help are to sail the boat flat. In gusty conditions, I have someone play the traveler down in the puffs which helps a lot to keep the boat from rouding up. Extra weight on the rail always helps. We also adjust mainsheet tension to open the leech and the traveler to control the amount of helm we carry. Too much leech tension causes more heel and helm, too little and you lose power and pointing ability. There is a very fine line.

Charlie

PS: We switch over to a #3 when the wind reaches 15 knots or above. Above 25 we use a flattener while racing and a full reef while sailing shorthanded. These rules of thumb keep us powered up without carrying too much helm.

Jib Sizing...

Charlie B. said:

I have an Olson 34 (Baleineau) on SF Bay and deal with strong breezes a lot. There are a couple of things we do de-power the rig and minimize helm. The first is to flatten the sails, or in our case we have sails that are cut flatter than sails used in other areas of the country. The second thing, is to load up on the backstay to further flatten the jib, but more importantly bend the mast and flatten the entry of the main. These two things help us the most to de-power.

Other things that help are to sail the boat flat. In gusty conditions, I have someone play the traveler down in the puffs which helps a lot to keep the boat from rouding up. Extra weight on the rail always helps. We also adjust mainsheet tension to open the leech and the traveler to control the amount of helm we carry. Too much leech tension causes more heel and helm, too little and you lose power and pointing ability. There is a very fine line.

Charlie

PS: We switch over to a #3 when the wind reaches 15 knots or above. Above 25 we use a flattener while racing and a full reef while sailing shorthanded. These rules of thumb keep us powered up without carrying too much helm.

Click to expand...

Great advice, and I also have an ignorant question....
Off hand, what % overlap is your #3? Is that the composite sail you were using on the day I went for a sail with you several years ago? It had some short battens, IIRC.
I also remember that the boat was going to weather with authority in about 15 - 18 kts of wind.
Thanks,
Loren

Loren Beach said:

Great advice, and I also have an ignorant question....
Off hand, what % overlap is your #3? Is that the composite sail you were using on the day I went for a sail with you several years ago? It had some short battens, IIRC.
I also remember that the boat was going to weather with authority in about 15 - 18 kts of wind.
Thanks,
Loren

Click to expand...

The #3 I currently use is a 95% jib with battens that I bought last year. Most of the sails that came with the boat were of a cut and weight better suited for sailing in winds below 15 knots. I found that my speed was good in light to moderate winds, but my pointing ability suffered. When I had local sailmakers make my sails, they were noticeably flatter and have actually improved our performance at both extremes. I have attached a photo courtesy of Lyons showing the sail trim.

Charlie