Interior wood care Ericson 26-2

[Sean Lehmann]

I own a 1988 E26-2 which is in need of some refreshing. I’ve removed the Sun deteriorating drapes and replaced with Zarcor Clozures.
After the drapes were removed there is a lot more interior wood visible around the portlights.
Some of the wood looks like it has faded or gotten a bit wet long ago but what is the best way to treat the wood to make it look better or bring it back to life? It’s not bad, it’s just not great and I’d like to make it look better.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Frank Langer]

If the wood is just faded or dulled by some water, but is still solid, I would give it a light sanding with about 150 grit sandpaper, not too aggressively, then vacuum or wipe clean.
I would then apply gelled teak stain with a cloth to the lighter area till it matches the rest fairly closely, and let dry. Then apply several coats of varnish to the entire wood area, avoiding drips, runs, missed spots. Sand lightly with 220 grit paper between coats.
I prefer satin varnish for its gentle look, but semi gloss is an option if you prefer a shinier look.
If the wood is soft, cracked or otherwise damaged, a different approach is needed.
I'm not a professional, but have done this work on my boat with good results.
Frank

 

[dcoyle]

I like teak oil on my boat. I wash the teak with a vinegar and warm water mixture and let dry. Then a coat of teak oil. This gives the wood a warm beautiful glow and the boat smells great. Crew always comment on how nice boat smells when the come aboard.

 

[Sean Lehmann]

Thank you for your suggestions. I’m going to give them a try.

 

[Alan Gomes]

I've had good results with Formby's Tung Oil, which has now become Minwax Tung Oil Finish. It's a wiping varnish (i.e., a thinned varnish that you can apply with a rag). It's every bit as easy to work with as teak oil, but having used both I think it's a better way to go.

I prefer it over oiling because oil does not last that long and it also seems to attract dirt. Plus, in my opinion it looks better. You can apply it over wood that has been previously oiled.

I used Formby's before Minwax acquired it. Formby's came in at least three different gloss levels, as I recall. I don't know if that's still true with the Minwax-branded product.

By the way: I also have an E26-2, so welcome to the club! It's a fun little boat.

Edit: I see you are in Dana Point. I'm up the coast from you, in San Pedro. My E26 was in Dana Point when I purchased it.

 

[bigd14]

I prefer satin varnish for its gentle look, but semi gloss is an option if you prefer a shinier look.

I too prefer a satin look. You can achieve this on existing glossy varnish by using fine bronze or stainless steel wool (never regular steel wool unless you like rusty stuff all over the boat). Deglossing the interior of my boat is on the list for...someday.

Frank what is your preferred stain brand and color for matching Ericson's 80's era finished teak? I am working on some galley changes and will eventually need to match finishes.

 

[Frank Langer]

Bigd14,
I bought a pint size can of Minwax gelled teak stain about ten years ago, and have only used about half of it since then, but it's still good and works well. I like it because it can be applied with a cloth (or kleenex tissue in small places), or brush, with excess just wiped off, so I always get a uniform look. It says to let it dry 3 hours, but I have cheated and applied varnish over it after an hour without any problem, and it looks great. I replaced a small piece of trim with very light coloured pine moulding when I couldn't find teak or mahogany in the right size, stained the pine and it looks just like teak, such a good match that no one would ever know.
Frank

 

[Frank Langer]

I also have a pint size can of Flecto Varathane gelled stain in teak that works equally well if you can't find the other.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Thank you Frank! I’ll try to find some.
Doug