Gluing plastic ladder

[klb67pgh]

Before I start experimenting with adhesives, I thought I would post here. One of the stand off mounting tabs on this vintage Taylor Made boarding ladder cracked and then separated. My current repair plan is adhesive and at least bigger washers to help distribute the load. I might try a layer of fiberglass for more structural support. Long term options might be find someone to 3D print a new one, stumble on a NOS part, or install a new stainless ladder on the transom.

Does anyone know of what kind of plastic/polymer this late 70's/early 80's ladder is made? I'm trying to decide on the best adhesive. Epoxy? Gorilla glue? Something else? An electrical tape fix got us through last sailing season but I need to try a more permanent fix.

Thanks for your info and ideas.

 

[Stuphoto]

Possibly an epoxy.
My personal experience with Gorilla products has been less than positive.

However I also look at the ladder as a piece of safety equipment, and think it's stupid to cut corners with them.
They can't be all that expensive, and just think how nice a stainless steel ladder would look on your boat.

 

[Tin Kicker]

Sorry but no glue is going to fix that, especially with the UV/sun aging of the plastic.

You may be able to find somebody who could make new ones for you with a 3D printer. There are a lot of people doing this from home and I've seen ads on Craigslist.

Personally I would make four new stand-offs of aluminum, because the other stand-offs are probably not much better. Be sure to pad where the aluminum presses against where it contacts the backside of the ladder vertical section.

 

[klb67pgh]

Hmm. Aluminum channel could be shaped and support/replace the ears on the standoff and be attached to the shaft of the standoff. Or as you suggested, make full aluminum standoffs. I'll have to explore that.

A stainless swim ladder would be nice. I have one in my garage off an Ericson 30 that I picked up with other salvaged items, and may mount it someday. I have a transom hung rudder, outboard motor mount and motor, pushpit, and solar panel to contend with. So a stern swim ladder is not ideal. This swim ladder mounts on brackets on the starboard side just forward of the pushpit, and folds and stows behind a settee. Sailing an inland lake, it's much less of a safety concern, not having swell, tides, and being able to swim to shore if the absolute worst happened.

 

[Tin Kicker]

Don't know the dimensions but most any welding shop ought to have what you need. Something like this:

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-U-Channel-6ALX9

Home Depot and Lowes have feet for table and chair legs to epoxy to the end so it won't mark up the hull.

Everbilt 1 in. Off-White Rubber Leg Caps for Table, Chair, and Furniture Leg Floor Protection (4-Pack) 49121 - The Home Depot

The Everbilt 1 in. Off-White Rubber Leg Tips offer durable rubber construction and dependable protection for all your hard-surface flooring. Ideal for use on chairs, tables, light equipment and even patio

www.homedepot.com

 

[KS Dave]

Home Depot and Lowes have feet for table and chair legs to epoxy to the end so it won't mark up the hull.

On the topic of rubber standoffs, I got mine from Catalina Direct made with UV-resistant rubber: Ladder Standoff Tips

 

[toddster]

Yeah, 40 y/o plastic exposed to the elements is at it’s end of life. However, I have had some success repairing irreplaceable PVC, PE, and PP parts with 5200 reinforced with glass fiber. At least temporarily. Glue the pieces together and wrap the assembly.
One Zodiac oarlock (not made any more) had to be repaired “in the field” with 5200 and strips of sunbrella cloth. It’s been going for two years now, although it took so long to cure that it was useless on the trip. (Probably because the 5200 couldn’t permeate the sunbrella)

 

[Christian Williams]

To repair that ear I would sister it with a 1/8th plywood plate, bolted or screwed, to hold the fragment in its original place.

I agree no simple adhesive will work, and would try the mechanical solution. You could bond with 5200 too. And paint the wood sister white.

 

[Tin Kicker]

Again, the problem is not that this one leg broke, it's that it was the first of the 4, and trying to double it will take the same time as to cut some aluminum C-channel. If fixing the plastic it'll be a matter of then waiting to see which leg breaks next, possibly when in a pinch.

Simple enough also if making one to just make four at the same time.

 

[Kenneth K]

Sorry but no glue is going to fix that, especially with the UV/sun aging of the plastic.

Agreed.

But if I HAD to rejoin plastics like that (for appearance, but not structural use), I'd (1) bond the two pieces back together (with epoxy), then (2) find some thin nails or metal brads and melt them into the plastic (layed perpendicular to the break) using a soldering iron, then (3) cover over the entire break (at least one face of it) with more epoxy (and maybe fiberglass cloth) after significantly roughing up the plastic surface to aid adhesion.

I did it once with satisfactory results, but it's not a practical solution here for reasons you've mentioned.

 

[Stuphoto]

A stainless swim ladder would be nice. I have one in my garage off an Ericson 30 that I picked up with other salvaged items, and may mount it someday. I have a transom hung rudder, outboard motor mount and motor, pushpit, and solar panel to contend with. So a stern swim ladder is not ideal.

I can understand that thinking.
Just a thought, if you are making all new brackets anyway, we may be able to help you figure out a way to mount that ladder in the present location.
It can't be that hard.

 

[klb67pgh]

Thanks all for the ideas. I think I'll try epoxy on the piece and also see if I can get fiberglass cloth to stick to help hold the piece together, and I like the idea of also sistering a piece on the outside - there's lots of meat left on the main part to attach it and it would help support the hardware and take pressure off of the ear. It's worth trying.

For those unfamiliar with the ladder, the vertical rails collapse into each other and the steps sandwich in between, so it becomes a long slender box/tube of sorts. It stores nicely behind a settee back. I'm sure it was added to the boat in or around 78 when sold or shortly thereafter. But it is in great shape and none of the other stand offs show any sign of cracking or even much wear. Being a northern boat with an off season, and being a swim ladder that is stored out of the sun when not in use, and with the boat seeing some years stored indoors and unused, it just hasn't been subject to the harsh elements and UV exposure like you might expect for its age.

I'm pretty sure I've looked at every available picture on this forum and Roscoe's blog of E25s with transom ladders, but if anyone has any good pictures showing one on an E25 or similar transom with a transom hung rudder and outboard, please send them my way.

 

[Stuphoto]

I have the same boat, and agree with you about the transom being tight.
My boat only came with a pool ladder, and I am not fond of it.

However a friend of mine, with a very similar size boat has a side mounted ladder I don't think looks too bad.
When I get home I was going to look at it and possibly order one.
If I think about it, I will post photos.
However I am at work for the next 6 weeks, so don't hold your breath.

 

[Tom Metzger]

Tin Kicker has the right idea, but rather than trying to find aluminum channel which. might be difficult, use two pieces of 1/4" flat stock with a bolt and spacer to butt against the rail.

You might consider doing both sides of the ladder because the other side is just as old.

 

[Loren Beach]

Tin Kicker has the right idea, but rather than trying to find aluminum channel which. might be difficult, use two pieces of 1/4" flat stock with a bolt and spacer to butt against the rail.

You might consider doing both sides of the ladder because the other side is just as old.

I agree with Tom about the age of the plastic material being a factor. I know that many 'plastic' compounds become brittle and lose strength due to aging of the material.
UV is hard on them, for sure, but unlike metal, the plastic is not "stable" over time. I have observed this in a lot of cast fittings on boats.

 

[Christian Williams]

Consider a midships ladder if replacing.

https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/threads/e35-2-boarding-ladder.13144/

 

[brianb00]

Before I start experimenting with adhesives, I thought I would post here. One of the stand off mounting tabs on this vintage Taylor Made boarding ladder cracked and then separated. My current repair plan is adhesive and at least bigger washers to help distribute the load. I might try a layer of fiberglass for more structural support. Long term options might be find someone to 3D print a new one, stumble on a NOS part, or install a new stainless ladder on the transom.

Does anyone know of what kind of plastic/polymer this late 70's/early 80's ladder is made? I'm trying to decide on the best adhesive. Epoxy? Gorilla glue? Something else? An electrical tape fix got us through last sailing season but I need to try a more permanent fix.

Thanks for your info and ideas.

You could essentially duplicate the part with fiber glass reinforced plastic cutting 3 pieces. Then bond with a 24 hour epoxy and add an outer layer of FG and epoxy resin. If you use 1/4 in FRP and bond it up with West Systems it will be very strong after curing in a black bag setting in the sun