Galley sink hose replacement pointers - Ericson 32-3

[Geordie]

I discovered that the galley sink hose on our Ericson 32-3 had separated at the top just below the sink drain connection. I'm starting on the replacement process, which is new to me. I'm assuming its pretty straightforward - close seacock, loosen hose clamps, remove old hose and replace hose. Replace any hose clamps that need it, then reassemble. I would appreciate hearing any tips or pointers. One concern I have is if I'm going to find any thing unexpected with the fittings at the seacock or sink end that affect the process. Do I need to use some kind of sealing compound between hose and fitting at either end or is the clamp pressure sufficient.?
I started to remove the old hose and loosened the hose clamps at the seacock end (closed), at which point some seepage came from the hose so I paused the project. This may be residual water in the sink hose, but I'm worried that if I pull the hose all the way off I'll find there is a problem with the seacock not actually sealing out the saltwater (boat is in the slip). I haven't been able to find much on this site or Youtube about this so far, any leads appreciated.

Thanks for any thoughts on this admittedly fairly elementary project.

 

[G Kiba]

I replaced the galley sink hose and valve on the thru-hull on my boat a few years back. I had the diver who cleans the bottom put in a plug while I did the work. After I finished he was kind enough to stick around awhile after he removed the plug to make sure all was well.

 

[Loren Beach]

The true water level will show up, at the inside water surface point, when you use a translucent hose. Typically this will be several inches below the attachment point for the galley sink drain. Note that IF that sink drain-to-hose connection fails and the hose is old and flexible and falls over... and the seacock is open... the boat can fill and sink.
That particular hose problem almost sunk a boat belonging to a friend of ours. I suspect that most/all of us do close the sink thru hull when we are off the boat.

 

[Frank Langer]

It should be sufficient to use two good quality (not cheap hardware store ones) hose clamps at each end of the new hose, best to have them with the screws opposite each other, but still accessible to check periodically. Tighten enough to be snug and not leak, but don't over tighten as that can cut the hose. That hose is short, so you may also want to replace it if you don't know it's age.
Before you start the work, you may want to "work" the seacock a bit to ensure it's operating properly. Once you get the hose off, you may want to add a dab of an appropriate grease to the top of the ball valve, but not too much that could clog the opening.
Once you've completed the job, I would stay on the boat for an hour or so, with the seacock open, to observe for any leaks, maybe running a bit of water down the sink as well. Then remember to close the seacock before leaving the boat.
Frank

 

[Geordie]

The true water level will show up, at the inside water surface point, when you use a translucent hose. Typically this will be several inches below the attachment point for the galley sink drain. Note that IF that sink drain-to-hose connection fails and the hose is old and flexible and falls over... and the seacock is open... the boat can fill and sink.
That particular hose problem almost sunk a boat belonging to a friend of ours. I suspect that most/all of us do close the sink thru hull when we are off the boat.

Thanks Loren. Fortunately the old hose is quite stiff so didn't fall over. Your comment about the level makes me think that the water currently in the hose is just the residual from when the seacock was open. So it will be a bit damp when I remove the hose, but assuming the seacock is fine I should be fine to continue the repair. Any other tricks to this? I may be overthinking this.

 

[Loren Beach]

It seems appropriate to think over repairs a bit; i.e. do not rush things too much. It's not like working on our cars where if we disconnect stuff it just sits there in the driveway.... but does not "sink"...!

Just close that seacock when you are R/R-ing that hose. I found that getting the sink drain parts back together was a bit fiddly after I took our sink out for a buffing (as part of the project of replacing the Formica galley countertop).
And yup, when you remove the hose, some water left inside will run out.

 

[Geordie]

Thanks for all the input. As I get a little deeper into this, it appears that the hose itself didn't break. Instead, there is a short section of metal pipe protruding from the top of the hose. It looks like this section broke away from the sink drain fitting, as a result maybe of corrosion/stress over the years. Its a relatively clean circular break just below the nut, a little rough-edged. Now shopping for a new drain fitting, as well as replacing the hose.

 

[peaman]

I may be overthinking this.

A little bit of "overthinking" is called "being conservative", which is appropriate when thinking about things that could sink our boat, or otherwise put us in danger. So if you think you aren't overthinking things at least a little bit, maybe you need to think again.

 

[Pete the Cat]

Be sure to use good hose. I am thinking some PO used ribbed bilge hose on my sink drain when I got the boat. I was immediately nervous as this is under water all the time and that hose is notorious for developing leaks and should only be used about the natural water line of the boat. Use exhaust hose or high quality sanitation hose and double clamp per ABYC on anything below the water line. One more thing; Although I have great faith in Marlon through hull fittings--Ericson sometimes used regular old black PVC nipples on those fitting. NO!!!. Marlon makes nipples and connectors. PVC will shatter if forced (don't ask how I learned this, nor how many times) when over tightened or clamped. FWIW.

 

[Geordie]

The saga continues to unfold and I may slowly be achieving enlightenment. My new diagnosis, which I am fairly confident about, is that we are dealing with a slip joint extension pipe, inside the drain hose. The slip joint washer failed, allowing the pipe extension to drop away from the sink drain fitting itself, through the slip joint nut. So no hose break, no pipe failure, just a corroded bevelled brass washer that fell apart. Next stop is a good plumbing supply store. It remains to be seen if I need to only replace the washer, or start over with a new extension pipe, slip nut and washer, which would require a new hose as well (of good quality as recommended above). I'm also in consultation with Bob Schoonmaker, owner of the independent Chandlery on Bainbridge Island, which I highly recommend if you are in the area.

 

[Frank Langer]

The saga continues to unfold and I may slowly be achieving enlightenment. My new diagnosis, which I am fairly confident about, is that we are dealing with a slip joint extension pipe, inside the drain hose. The slip joint washer failed, allowing the pipe extension to drop away from the sink drain fitting itself, through the slip joint nut. So no hose break, no pipe failure, just a corroded bevelled brass washer that fell apart. Next stop is a good plumbing supply store. It remains to be seen if I need to only replace the washer, or start over with a new extension pipe, slip nut and washer, which would require a new hose as well (of good quality as recommended above). I'm also in consultation with Bob Schoonmaker, owner of the independent Chandlery on Bainbridge Island, which I highly recommend if you are in the area.
View attachment 49633View attachment 49635

Good problem solving, a step at a time.
Frank

 

[bigd14]

Hey Geordie, glad you found the issue before it became a big problem. I was able to source a Marelon sink drain fitting which I think would be a better solution than a slip joint. https://www.forespar.com/products/boat-marine-plumbing-hose-adapter-tailpipe.shtml You can just see the black elbow fitting in the photo below. While you are in there working on hoses it would be a good time to inspect the other thru hulls and hoses for problems. Those old corrugated hoses are known to be fragile after many years in the bilge.

I know I have preached recently about the hazards of PVC below the waterline, but I have made an exception in this case (gray elbow below). I always keep the sink thru hull closed when not on the boat, the elbow is readily accessible and above the waterline, and the hose leading to the thru hull is very stiff wire reinforced exhaust hose and will not droop below the waterline if the elbow does fail. Also, this photo was taken during installation, before I added hose clamps to the small horizontal piece of hose.

I added the elbows to the sink drain and to the raw water intake and filter to move the hoses aside to make the engine, especially the alternator, more accessible. The raw water intake thru hull was located so far aft that I had to remove the companionway ladder, lie down on the floor and reach as far back as I could with my shoulder jammed against the bulkhead and head stuck in the engine compartment and just barely grasp it. That might have been ok when I was 25, but totally unacceptable now! What was Ericson thinking? I relocated it forward where it is easier to reach and have been happy since.

Edit- the white corrugated manual bilge pump hose below the raw water intake hose is not the dreaded original Ericson drain hose, but a newer and much more robust clear spiral live-well type hose.

 

[Nick J]

I ended up using a stainless steel sink drain and tailpiece:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GQ94L93/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00838IRGK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

The examples above are 304, but you can get it in 316 for a little more:

Elkay LK372 Sink Drain Fitting, 3-1/2" Opening, Type 316 Stainless Steel Body, Tailpiece, Perforated 3" Grid Strainer

Elkay LK372, Commercial Sink, Drain Opening, Fittings, Accessories, Parts

www.prodrinkingfountains.com

I wasn't able to figure out the male threads on the bottom of the drain to order the correct fitting like @bigd14 linked above. If you can figure that out, Marlon may be the best solution.

 

[Second Star]

I replaced the drain hose etc in my 28+ after the presentation by the owner of the Port Angeles boat that sank at our PNW Rendezvous. His issue was my issue too upon inspection!
I would tend to replace the whole assembly except the thru hull valve. Replacing just the washer would work but the drain nut is held to the drain by 3 threads? it looks like. At home no issue but right next to the engine, heat and vibration, being in a salt water environment, reused, etc makes that nut a point of catastrophic failure. Replace the washer for a temporary solution while you search out the parts. FWIW