E27 Toe Rail Repair or Replacement.
- Thread starter dansgiles
- Start date
Pete the Cat
Member III
Pictures would be helpful.
dansgiles
Junior Member
Looks like it hit a dock pretty hard. Deck joint is separated too. Plan is to smooth the deck joint, fill with structural putty and fiberglass inside and out.
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reginaldobaker
Member II
If you go smooth things out and apply epoxy route think it’s standard crack repair procedure to drill into the beginning/end of the crack and grind out the body of the crack. exposing fresh material the whole length then fill in - so the crack doesn’t reappear and spread.
I’d be mostly concerned about the hull to deck integrity but it may be fine if filled and glassed over.
Good luck!
I’d be mostly concerned about the hull to deck integrity but it may be fine if filled and glassed over.
Good luck!
Check the interior for evidence of leaking through the damage. If there isn't any, I would do a cosmetic repair as Reginald describes.
This sort of job can become difficult beyond utility, and personally I would not plunge in too deep. (And I should listen to myself more often)
Oh, and welcome aboard the forums. You might give us a general introduction to your project, with more pictures, so we can see the scope of work and your plan. You'll find much interest, experience and support.
E27 documentation is here, for downloading: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/resources/categories/e27-docs.12/
This sort of job can become difficult beyond utility, and personally I would not plunge in too deep. (And I should listen to myself more often)
Oh, and welcome aboard the forums. You might give us a general introduction to your project, with more pictures, so we can see the scope of work and your plan. You'll find much interest, experience and support.
E27 documentation is here, for downloading: https://ericsonyachts.org/ie/resources/categories/e27-docs.12/
Pete the Cat
Member III
I agree with the above advice. On the issue of where to put the jib track, am I correct that it was mounted on the rotted rail? I would be inclined to put it back where it came from with assuring yourself that it is properly anchored--not in wood. Ericson was a decent production boat producer, but often put deck hardware on though unprotected wood. If the jib track is on top of this damaged and rotted section the repair will need a bit more attention to structure. As Christian mentioned, you might need to work from the inside on that. FWIW.
Yes, interior of hull/deck joint is glassed from the factory, if damaged then your glass work should be inside and out. The inside is accessible through panels above shelving above settees. On my '72 there is an aluminum extrusion with rubber insert rub rail that covers the exterior of joint so doesn't have to be pretty, just solid. With that thought, as Reginald says, dig out as much as needed to get to solid material before filling to ensure proper bonding for entire length of crack/rot.
Cheers!
dansgiles
Junior Member
Thank you all for your help, I’ll keep y’all updated
Welcome dansgiles,
There should be no wood to rot in the deck to hull joint on your E27. Is there rubrail on the boat anywhere?
Regarding headsail track you might want to add an inner track and maybe just use a short track aft on the "toe rail". I installed an inner track to use with a 135% and 110% headsail and it works better than the track on the toe rail, tighter sheeting angle. The outer track is now used for spinnaker sheeting only and I could get away with no track and just a fixed sheeting block for the asymmetrical.
There should be no wood to rot in the deck to hull joint on your E27. Is there rubrail on the boat anywhere?
Regarding headsail track you might want to add an inner track and maybe just use a short track aft on the "toe rail". I installed an inner track to use with a 135% and 110% headsail and it works better than the track on the toe rail, tighter sheeting angle. The outer track is now used for spinnaker sheeting only and I could get away with no track and just a fixed sheeting block for the asymmetrical.
dansgiles
Junior Member
That you mark,
I think some of the wood I’m finding in the deck joint is from an old failed repair. Some sections of the toe rail are wood core, others seem to be putty and towards the bow it is hollow. Do you have any images or advice on installing the inner track? Also, how are you liking the electric drive?
Hey mark and dansgiles
I too added an inside track to my old E27 in about the same location as Mark. On my interior, I drilled pilot holes through the deck and interior liner to mount the track. Inside, I used the pilot holes to cut the inner liner with a 3/4 hole saw. Then drilled the out the pilot holes larger to seal the core with epoxy and drill again for fasteners. I used 5/8" flat washers on each screw and covered it all with a 3/4" plastic plug. You can see a little bit of the plastic covers in the picture. I think I use 3' of track. At least that is what I remember. I miss my E27.
I too added an inside track to my old E27 in about the same location as Mark. On my interior, I drilled pilot holes through the deck and interior liner to mount the track. Inside, I used the pilot holes to cut the inner liner with a 3/4 hole saw. Then drilled the out the pilot holes larger to seal the core with epoxy and drill again for fasteners. I used 5/8" flat washers on each screw and covered it all with a 3/4" plastic plug. You can see a little bit of the plastic covers in the picture. I think I use 3' of track. At least that is what I remember. I miss my E27.
Good move Grant. I oversized the track fastener holes, filled with epoxy and redrilled to the correct size for the track bolts. I learned from another project that you cannot just drill through the deck to the inside of the cabin, tape and fill with epoxy. Probably pretty obvious to most but the inner liner is not bonded to the deck, there is a space between. After pouring way too much epoxy into a hole I was trying to fill I looked down below and found epoxy dripping out of a hole far from the hole I was filling. Since then my approach has been to make little dams with tissue paper to keep the epoxy in the area of the hole. Its finicky but usually works. Grants method of cutting larger plug holes is much better 
.
.I have still not found a good tape that seals the other side from leaking! The only thing that seems to work is A Lot of Tape! I will have to try your tissue method.Good move Grant. I oversized the track fastener holes, filled with epoxy and redrilled to the correct size for the track bolts. I learned from another project that you cannot just drill through the deck to the inside of the cabin, tape and fill with epoxy. Probably pretty obvious to most but the inner liner is not bonded to the deck, there is a space between. After pouring way too much epoxy into a hole I was trying to fill I looked down below and found epoxy dripping out of a hole far from the hole I was filling. Since then my approach has been to make little dams with tissue paper to keep the epoxy in the area of the hole. Its finicky but usually works. Grants method of cutting larger plug holes is much better
dansgiles
Junior Member
Thank you! Is there a formula or measurement for placing it at the correct angle?
My sail maker, at that time (2004), gave me an approximate location for a new 90% sail I was buying so it would sheet inside the shrouds. I set the angle based on the larger sails I had that sheet out side the shrouds. I think I would pick the location that fits the sail you use most often for the center of the new track. Then go with at least 3-4ft of track to cover future or other head sails you already have. Not many sail makers will come out to measure and help anymore. So I would base the track location of sheeting angle and slot created with the main.
dansgiles
Junior Member
Got one side sanded flush, ground out all cracks, loose putty and holes. Filled with putty and fiberglassed over with two layers of tape. Bow section was pretty much held together by the chainplate, looks like a poor repair job that tried to lay the fiberglass overtop paint. Interior is going to get at least 3 layers of fiberglass
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Sorry I don't come around here much, so I am a little late.
Since it was in bad shape, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement.
I removed the rub rail from my Ericson 25 mk1 last year, grinding it all off a section at a time. Glassing it over with 4+ layers.
Smoothed it out.
Swore I would never do it again.
Before doing all this work my boat had waterfalls coming down the walls from the seam during any rain.
It's pretty much dry inside now.
In my opinion it looks much better.
However the anchor line now rubs along the painted surface.
I would definitely put a stainless or aluminum plate around the front cleats next time.
All in all I am very happy with the results, however I still say I wouldn't do it again.
Since it was in bad shape, and I couldn't find a suitable replacement.
I removed the rub rail from my Ericson 25 mk1 last year, grinding it all off a section at a time. Glassing it over with 4+ layers.
Smoothed it out.
Swore I would never do it again.
Before doing all this work my boat had waterfalls coming down the walls from the seam during any rain.
It's pretty much dry inside now.
In my opinion it looks much better.
However the anchor line now rubs along the painted surface.
I would definitely put a stainless or aluminum plate around the front cleats next time.
All in all I am very happy with the results, however I still say I wouldn't do it again.
dansgiles
Junior Member
So much grinding, days upon days of stripping down on the front porch before entering. I agree with you, it looks much better already