Rebuilding Lewmar Hatches
By
While not the most technically challenging repair for a
late model
Here are the steps to remove, fabricate temporary covers
and reinstall the hatches.
Before Removal
Determine the model/dimensions of the hatches to be
rebuilt. Contact Select Plastics and see
if there are any special removal tricks and for a preliminary estimate.
Removal
The hatch hinge has a composite/plastic hinge pin that runs through the hinge section mounted to the cabin top and the hatch. Open the hatch slightly. Locate the pin and carefully drive it out with a ¼ inch drift driver or a 6-8 inch ¼ extension. There are also plastic/nylon washers on each side of the hinge; in most cases, these will be very worn and should be replaced.
Be sure not to remove the hinge straps from the top of the hatch; these will have to be redone/resealed when the hatch is rebuilt and it will help to have it intact when they inspect the hatch. Note, when more than one hatch is being sent, be sure to mark the hatches for position; remember, these boats are getting on in years and they like to have things put back where they were!
Fabricating a Temporary Cover
Here’s where the creativity comes in. I cut ½ inch plywood one inch larger than the
hatch deck opening. I then cut 1 X 4s
approximately four inches more than the interior opening (leaving teak trim in
place.) I then marked the interior
circumference of the hatch on the plywood.
If I had had spare inner tubes available, I would have cut strips to
form gaskets on all four sides; in the alternative, I laid down five layers of
duct tape to form gaskets all around the opening. Two holes were drilled through the plywood
and lag bolts (somewhere between six and eight inches were installed) and
corresponding holes were drilled in the 1 X 4s with the 1 X 4s being wrapped
with duct tape to form a pad where they contacted the teak interior trim. The lag bolts were inserted through the
plywood, down through the hatch opening and through the 1 X 4s. Large fender washers,
lock washers and wing nuts were used to tighten the assembly and compress the
gasket/duct tape to form a reasonable seal.
As an additional precaution, the top of the lag bolts were
sealed with an “X” of duct tape.
Finally, heavy-duty 55 gal trash can liners were spread on the deck
(folded as appropriate), covering the plywood and the bag edges were duct taped
to the cabin roof.
After four weeks of varying weather (rain, sun, wind,
etc.), the duct tape did a good job keeping things sealed. BTW, any remaining tape adhesive residue on
the cabin top can be easily removed with Goo-Away or
other similar product.
Shipping
Each hatch cover should be individually wrapped in bubble
pack and surrounded with cardboard sheets and shipping popcorn. Select the shipping box size so that nothing
moves around in shipping. BTW, hatches
are heavy and UPS 3-day from NorCal to CT would have
been $135; I opted for five-day ground for less than $40. It’s a good idea to call Select Plastics, in
advance, to let them know the hatches are coming and to check production
schedules.
Rebuild Estimate
Once Select receives the hatches, they inspect them and
prepare an estimate. The estimate can be
sent via fax or e-mail. All you have to
do is approve the estimate, arrange for payment and let them do the rest. In my case, it took three weeks to get the
three hatches back (off season).
Reinstalling
What a shock. I
opened the box to discover three brand-new looking hatches. It’s always nice to be pleasantly surprised
when you have someone else do work on/for your boat.
Reinstallation is simply the reverse of removal. Remove the plastic sheeting/duct tape, remove the bolts, cross braces and plywood. Place the hatches over the cutouts in the
cabin. Since the seals are brand new,
they are thicker and the hatches may have to be pushed down or lifted in front
to match the hatch strap holes with the hinge holes. I recommend using new nylon/plastic washers
in the reassembly. I used another ¼ inch
extension to line everything up and I drove the pin – carefully – through from
the other side, being cautious to adjust the hatch-to-hinge so that the pin
drives easily through. Due to the new
gaskets, you may have to pull down harder on the handles to close the hatches.
Refinishing Interior Trim
Although not required, I took the opportunity to remove
the battens/trim pieces that surround the interior hatch openings, leaving the
teak frames attached to the deck/hatch assemble. I carefully sanded the teak frames in site
and had the removable pieces chemically stripped.
I also removed the cracked, peeling and brittle t-molding
that finished the frame to cabin seam. I
found a source for plastic teak-colored ½ inch t-molding; unfortunately, I had
to buy 500 feet. I plan to sell 20 ft.
lengths to other
I put five coats of Interlux 65
satin finish urethane varnish on the frames and removable trim. I replaced all the #6 X 3/4 oval head brass
screws to make things look like new.
Contact Information
Select Plastics
219 East