Type A transmission fluid

Have a 86 E32 with a 24 hp diesel and a Hurth transmission. I'm having trouble obtaining the Type A fluid required. I have found only one reference on the internet suggesting a replacement of Dextron II/Merc. Can anyone suggest where to obtain Type A or if a reliable subst is being used.

See the link.

http://www.merequipment.com/dept.asp?d_id=22008&l1=22008

I do not think type A ATF is made any longer. Very common back in the 40s and 50s. Why do you think your tranny takes type A?

It states it in the manual and is stamped on a metal plate on the trany. "Type A Only".

I used a high grade synthetic ATF in my '88 Hurth (Universal M25XP, 23 hp).

The Universal diesels seem to use mostly Hurth's, and those specify AFT (automatic transmission fluid) rather than engine oil like the Yanmar transmissions, FWIW.

Hope this helps a little bit.
Loren

Great reference. I'll get the syth ATF. Thanks.

I use Dexron III/Mercon in my Hurth ZF10 (behind a Universal M25). No problems and NO leaks since rebuild last winter. Type A is not available I was told. Very old type.

Ditto on the type A. I went nuts a few years ago looking for the stuff because thats what the manual said to use. Finally spoke to a few diesel guys who all said Dextron III was fine. When I first drained the tranny it came out looking gray. I was a little worried. I changed it then, 2 years ago. This last fall I drained it after 2 seasons of use. Looked just as red and clear as the day it went in. As big of a PITA as it is to change I think I am going to go to 3 or 4 year intervals on the changing and just check the level every month.

Changing Hurth Tranny Oil

Changing Hurth ZF5 or ZF10 tranny oil is easy if you can get to the dipstick plug on top of the tranny. A BIG IF. You suck out the old oil with a hand vacuum pump and an in line container that will hold at least 1/2 quart (0.45 qt for a ZF10). Now the trick is to get the suction tube inserted to the lower most part of the tranny. And, guess what, the lowest part is directly below the dipstick plug right at the drain plug - straight down. I have done this a 1/2 dozen times (another story) and if careful you don't spill a drop. And I would recommend changing the oil every year, 2 max. The metalic clutches do wear.

Thanks for all the responses. I was going to draw the fluid out with a large syringe and tubing since it's a small amount. Also, since its important to get the level correct I figured this would a good menthod to add fluid.

Dave you got it right. Its not too tough of a job IF YOU CAN GET ACCESS. Thats the hardest part. I find it easier on my 38 to drain from the bottom instead of pumping out. Then to fill I use a turkey baster. Wife never misses it as she's a vegetarian.

I use the modified turkey baster method myself. I take a length of heat shrink tubing that just fits over the tip of the baster. Heat just that bit to make a solid fit to the baster. Of course, using the heat shrink tubing may be overkill since you could just force a proper size hose over the tip. But when I did the "baster enhancement" I had a length of heat shrink handy instead of a lenght of tube.

For those like me who pull for the winter, it's important to note (at least for my Universal 5411) the manual recommends completely filling the transmission for storage. I guess to keep all parts covered to prevent rust. Then, for the season, make sure the level is at the correct point on the dipstick (or dip rod in this case).

1st few years, I would top up the transmission in the fall. Tried to do "partial drain" to get the level right in the spring, but would just make a mess of things with most fluid ending up in the bilge and having to refill from zero anyway.

Last couple years, I just use the baster to suck out enough to get it back to the correct level. Will probably try to do a full drain without making a mess next year to make sure any wear parts are flushed out.