Sven
Seglare
Take a look at this thread:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=659&highlight=newglass
It might be Newglass2, but find out how it is different from 1.
-Sven
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=659&highlight=newglass
It might be Newglass2, but find out how it is different from 1.
-Sven
u079721
Contributing Partner
Don't
Practical Sailor looked into these types of restorers awhile ago, and if I recall correctly they had horror stories about the stuff turning yellow on the hull after a season or two and even flaking off as it got old.
I might feel differently if I had a badly chalked 30 year old hull, but personally I would stay way from painting the hull until just before I planned to sell it. Everyone I know who has painted their hulls seems to spend all their time babying the surface to keep the paint from lifting or getting scratched. Minor mishaps at the dock that would have come out with a bit of rubbing compound turn into major eventsand repairs. I love the look of an Awlgripped hull, but not the challenge of keeping it looking that way.
Practical Sailor looked into these types of restorers awhile ago, and if I recall correctly they had horror stories about the stuff turning yellow on the hull after a season or two and even flaking off as it got old.
I might feel differently if I had a badly chalked 30 year old hull, but personally I would stay way from painting the hull until just before I planned to sell it. Everyone I know who has painted their hulls seems to spend all their time babying the surface to keep the paint from lifting or getting scratched. Minor mishaps at the dock that would have come out with a bit of rubbing compound turn into major eventsand repairs. I love the look of an Awlgripped hull, but not the challenge of keeping it looking that way.
Future vynil floor treatment
Seems to work almost as well, and is a lot lot easier to remove. The neighbors and I decided to try this out on their boat. It worked great. First prep was made with "Liquid Bar Keepers Friend" tm. A soap and very mild abrasive used to clean counter tops and the like.
Then we applied the "Future" tm floor treatment, it looks really good, sealed up the glass so it does not stain, did not hinder the non-skid properties of the fiberglass pattern at all, is easier to clean, and a lot shinier.
We decided to go that route after getting a tip about it. We also removed a test section on the deck with some soap and amonia. Except for the amonia smell, the process was easy.
At something like $4.00
to do the whole boat, about 8 months ago, I don't see a down side so far.
Plan on doing the decks on the 46 as soon as I get a bunch of the other projects done.....
Guy
Seems to work almost as well, and is a lot lot easier to remove. The neighbors and I decided to try this out on their boat. It worked great. First prep was made with "Liquid Bar Keepers Friend" tm. A soap and very mild abrasive used to clean counter tops and the like.
Then we applied the "Future" tm floor treatment, it looks really good, sealed up the glass so it does not stain, did not hinder the non-skid properties of the fiberglass pattern at all, is easier to clean, and a lot shinier.
We decided to go that route after getting a tip about it. We also removed a test section on the deck with some soap and amonia. Except for the amonia smell, the process was easy.
At something like $4.00
to do the whole boat, about 8 months ago, I don't see a down side so far.Plan on doing the decks on the 46 as soon as I get a bunch of the other projects done.....
Guy
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I tried it on my previous boat. It yellowed and partially flaked off. I confronted the salesguy at the Annapolis show about it. He was really pissed and said I must not have followed directions.
I eventually painted the hull dark blue with Interlux Interspray 800. It has been looking good for 8 years now with 2 coats of polish and 1 coat of wax at the beginning of each season.
This winter or next spring, I intend to paint my '97 E-380 with Awlgrip. I'd rather use Epiphanes based on Practical Sailors report, but can't find anyone in the Annapolis area who uses it.
Bottom line for Newglass - - stay away from it!
Vince Benn
I eventually painted the hull dark blue with Interlux Interspray 800. It has been looking good for 8 years now with 2 coats of polish and 1 coat of wax at the beginning of each season.
This winter or next spring, I intend to paint my '97 E-380 with Awlgrip. I'd rather use Epiphanes based on Practical Sailors report, but can't find anyone in the Annapolis area who uses it.
Bottom line for Newglass - - stay away from it!
Vince Benn
Jeff Asbury
Principal Partner
PolyGlass, Stay Away!
Sounds similar to this expensive stuff I tried called PolyGlass. A friend saw it at a boat show and recommended it to me. I asked that same friend if he wanted the job of applying it. When he was about half way done with the boat he called me and said he "Would Rather Eat Snakes". I went on so unevenly and looked like hell. Drips, runs and uneven areas everywhere. The only good news was that the bottle of prep PolyGlass (The stripper/prep stuff that came with it) would also work to strip it off. We both worked our butts off with that stuff to get the PolyGlass crap off the boat and it actually worked better than rubbing compound. I then used 3M marine paste wax. Looked pretty good for about two months. Now I just wax the boat twice a year.
As far as I can see, there are no quick fixes for 32 year old oxidized fiber glass other than, Awl Grip, Sterling LP or new Gel Coat. I wish there was. I just can't see putting 2 to 4 K into by boat for cosmetic reasons alone.
Sounds similar to this expensive stuff I tried called PolyGlass. A friend saw it at a boat show and recommended it to me. I asked that same friend if he wanted the job of applying it. When he was about half way done with the boat he called me and said he "Would Rather Eat Snakes". I went on so unevenly and looked like hell. Drips, runs and uneven areas everywhere. The only good news was that the bottle of prep PolyGlass (The stripper/prep stuff that came with it) would also work to strip it off. We both worked our butts off with that stuff to get the PolyGlass crap off the boat and it actually worked better than rubbing compound. I then used 3M marine paste wax. Looked pretty good for about two months. Now I just wax the boat twice a year.
As far as I can see, there are no quick fixes for 32 year old oxidized fiber glass other than, Awl Grip, Sterling LP or new Gel Coat. I wish there was. I just can't see putting 2 to 4 K into by boat for cosmetic reasons alone.
The marina is turning the water back on this weekend. Therefore, cleaning (and polishing) the deck is the first thing I'm doing Saturday morning! I have used Bar Keeper's Friend before - GREAT stuff! Polishes brass & steel really well. Removes rust too!Guy Stevens said:Seems to work almost as well, and is a lot lot easier to remove. The neighbors and I decided to try this out on their boat. It worked great. First prep was made with "Liquid Bar Keepers Friend" tm. A soap and very mild abrasive used to clean counter tops and the like.
Then we applied the "Future" tm floor treatment, it looks really good, sealed up the glass so it does not stain, did not hinder the non-skid properties of the fiberglass pattern at all, is easier to clean, and a lot shinier.
We decided to go that route after getting a tip about it. We also removed a test section on the deck with some soap and amonia. Except for the amonia smell, the process was easy.
At something like $4.00
Plan on doing the decks on the 46 as soon as I get a bunch of the other projects done.....
Guy
QUESTION: I've been looking for "Future Vinyl" and haven't been able to find it. I did find this:
http://www.floorcareproducts.com/floor-finish/index.asp
"Future Floor Finish" with that 'atomic logo' design. Is this the same stuff you're talking about? I seem to remember this a long time ago with the same logo...
Yeah that is it!
Yeah that is the stuff!
Guy
Yeah that is the stuff!
Guy