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38-200 wiring diagram/shower sump pump

Kranich

E38 owner since 2009
Anybody have any leads a wiring diagram? Do any exist?

I'm having trouble with the shower sump pump. The little sub panel above the head was completely corroded so I rebuilt it with new parts. The pump still doesn't work. It runs when put 12V directly on it, so there must be something going in between. Any ideas?

Best,
Peter
E38-200 Kranich
San Rafael, CA
 

Christian Williams

E381 - Los Angeles
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
It's all in the owner's manual, I'm sure. Many manuals are available here in the archives, but the archives are down at the moment.
 

Carefree Sailor

Member II
PDF copy of the 35-III manual

Hi Peter,

I have a copy of the E35-III manual that I can send to you. The file is 6.9MB and it appears that this site doesn't allow such a large file to be attached. If you want it, please email me at: georgeDOTgallingerATasuDOTedu. Obviously, replace DOT with . and AT with @ in my email address.
 

Kranich

E38 owner since 2009
Thanks for all your replies! The manual I downloaded from this site a while back does not contain any electrical diagrams unfortunately. Not sure if the E35 had it's own shower sump?
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Just a thought... On the E-34 the pressure water circuit breaker has to be on for the shower sump pump to run.
 

Ryan L

s/v Naoma
Before we re-wired her our 1988 38-200 also had to have the pressure water switched on for the sump pump to work. Good luck!
 

Rick R.

Contributing Partner
Pressure switch on and water in the sump to make it work.. Is there water enough to activate? Merry Christmas.
 

Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
I would double, no, triple check the sub panel you rebuilt. From many, many years of troubleshooting circuits I have learned that the problem is almost always in the last part that I worked on.

Wiring double pole, double throw switches can be confusing; they are not always the same configuration. Is there 12 V on the outputs of the panel? Input?

Good fuse in the sub panel?

Is the negative lead still connected at BOTH ends?

If you don't have a volt-ohm-meter you can get one for less than $10 at Harbor Freight.
 
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Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Just a thought... On the E-34 the pressure water circuit breaker has to be on for the shower sump pump to run.

Interesting info, and a bit puzzling.

Our '88 boat has a 12 volt panel that is physically the same as the one on the E-34 for that year, and the little sticker on the back of our panel sez 'E-34'.
We have a dedicated - labeled- breaker for the bilge pump(s). On our boat the shower bilge pump is another identical pump with its pickup located a few feet behind the main pump pickup strum box. Effectively they both pump out the same bilge.... and water from the aft head drains into the bilge and is expected to run forward thru a limber hole to the "shower" pump pickup. (Not the best system, IMHO)

Both pump switches are further actuated by separate Rule standard sub-panels with their little bat handle two way switches and their own fuses, one by the main breaker panel and the one for the "head" located inside the head compartment.

Loren
 
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Tom Metzger

Sustaining Partner
Loren - On the E-34 the shower sump is separated from the bilge - a good thing. The thinking was that one wouldn't run the shower pump if not using the shower, therefore combine the feed with the pressure water pump on one breaker.

I generally have the pressure water turned off and don't use the shower (fresh water sailor with marina showers), but not a problem when I want to use the pump. Generally it's used when cleaning the head.

Merry Xmas.
 

Kranich

E38 owner since 2009
So my problem is finally solved. Also thanks to Sean who put the files back up on the download section I was able to look at the wiring diagram! The problem was a splice in the bilge where they t-off the wire for the float switch. From the outside it looked great so I didn't suspect anything there. But after not seeing anything fancy on the diagram, pulling out the electrical panel, and sorting through the wires over the hanging locker I seemed like the splice in the bilge was the only thing that could be a problem. And sure enough, after cutting away the nice looking seal the wiring inside was far from nice.

Now with a newly rebuilt sub panel and freshly crimped and sealed wiring in the bilge, pump is happily humming away.

Thanks for all your support. Much appreciated :)
Peter
 
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