Salon Hatches Rebuild Project

Andrew Means

Member III
So after rebuilding the Wino Country Safari's companionway hatch, I decided it was time to tackle the long-neglected salon hatches. They hadn't been varnished in ages and the acrylic had been sanded over so you couldn't see out of them at all.

IMG_1511.jpg
Note that the PO hadn't bothered to tape off the acrylic before varnishing

IMG_1515.jpg
One of the hatches promptly fell apart upon removal of the acrylic. This allowed me to sand it more easily, which was nice.

IMG_1517.jpg
Trick I learned from my friend Brent which saves a lot of sanding - tape off areas where glue is going to gush out - when it's mostly dry, just peel it off and the extra glue comes with it!

IMG_1520.jpg
Sanding the hatch (the one which didn't fall apart)

IMG_1524.jpg
Couple coats of varnish in. Looking good.

[continued on next post]
 

Andrew Means

Member III
I went to TAP plastics and bought some green-edge 3/8" acrylic for ~$50 each. They have the ability to drill the holes and countersink and finish the edges, which I elected to do myself, which at one point I was cursing myself for not doing, and later was glad I didn't. They sold me a "special" drill bit and a "special" countersink for drilling the plastic.

IMG_1526.jpg
CRAP. A big chip popped out as I was drilling one of the holes. I tried gluing it back in with gorilla glue, but the stuff grew so much that it pushed the piece out of line (clamped it on edge, but not on the top and bottom). So that sucked. Oh, also, the countersink they sold me SUCKED. It melted the plastic before cutting into it. I went out and bought a nice sharp countersink that worked brilliantly from Stone Hardware in Seattle (they must know me by sight now, as the dude who comes in and looks for hours for a screw or bolt).

I went back in and told the folks at Tap about it and they were decent about the whole thing - they were like "weird, that's the one we use and we don't have any problems with it" and went in the back and got theirs, which was obviously sharper and stuff - they gave me a big break on another piece of acrylic. Still, I was pissed that I hadn't just made them drill the holes for me, that would have saved me $50 or so bucks.

IMG_1529.jpg
Acrylic ready to seal/screw on the forward hatch.

IMG_1530.jpg
Screwed and sealed!
IMG_1537.jpg
Installed! Which poses an interesting issue. For those of you who know the E27, you know the door you see through the hatch is the door to the head. Which means you can see right down into the head from the deck right now. Hrm. Luckily (?) this was the first hatch that I had used the silicone sealant on (the other hatch's glue was still curing), and I don't think I did the best job on the silicone, and I think I need to use longer screws than were in there before (I reused the originals), so I'm actually thinking that come springtime I'll take the hatch off and clean up all the silicone, then tape off some 1/2" lines at a 45° angle on the underside of the hatch and give it a good sand. Peeling up the tape should reveal a nice geometric pattern etched into the acrylic which will still let plenty of light in, while obscuring the view into the head enough that a passing glance won't reveal someone doing their duty.

IMG_1553.jpg
The other hatch installed as well. This spring I think I'll also take all the hardware and see about cleaning it up as well, as it is somewhat corroded. I may do the 45° lines on both hatches, for consistency's sake. I also want to give myself another chance to really perfectly nail the sealant - they look great from about 4 ft away, but when you get close you can tell it's not as clean as it could be...

Oh, remember when I said I was pissed about not having TAP drill the holes for me? Well, on the first hatch (the one I didn't have to reglue/screw) I used the existing acrylic for a template, which worked fine. But the aft hatch had shifted a bit after re-gluing, and the holes were at least an 1/8" off in some places (I may have actually assembled it differently, I wasn't super careful about that). So had I had TAP drill the holes they would have been off anyway. I ended up setting the acrylic on the frame, sighting through the acrylic, and drilling pilot holes for each screw. Then I finished them off with a piece of scrap wood underneath. The holes lined up perfectly.

LESSONS:

1. Use a drill press when drilling acrylic. If you don't have one, whatever you do, keep the drill bit *straight* in the hole, any sideways motion will pop out a piece.
2. If a countersink/drill bit doesn't look that sharp, it probably isn't. If it costs $3, it's probably worth about that much.
3. Keep the protective wrap on acrylic as long as possible - preferably only removing it once you install.
4. Tape off areas where you know glue/sealant is going to gush out - when it's halfway dry, peel off the tape and take the excess with it. Super clean! However - you may have to run a razor blade to keep the excess from pulling out the seal from between the two pieces.
5. Clamp a piece of scrap wood underneath when drilling acrylic so it doesn't chip off when the bit comes through the bottom.

Overall I'm really happy with this project - the hatches look great and I can actually see through them... Which, as I type this, strikes me as a strong argument against giving them the etching treatment, as one of the biggest annoyances on a hot summer day is having the hatches open and being unable to see what's directly ahead of you from the cockpit. Hmm..
 
Last edited:

Andrew Means

Member III
Ah, one thing I was going to ask you folks about - do you use weather stripping on the seal between the hatch and the deck? Certainly if we were doing open ocean sailing and taking waves over the deck then you'd want to be able to have a good seal, but for Puget Sound sailing, I wonder if it is better to have a space for moisture to escape, rather than trying to hermetically seal the whole thing. What do you folks do?
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Silicone would not my first choice

One note about silicone, if the seal does not hold (and it's known for allowing leaks), re-seal and bed it again with a modified silicone adhesive like LifeSeal.
This is the stuff we used to adhere our four large external fixed ports in 1995, and to this day they do not leak. it's that good. Comes in clear, black (our choice) and white.

Love your varnish work! Wow, that frame is shore purdy!!
:)

LB
 
Last edited:

Andrew Means

Member III
Thanks Loren - good call with the LifeSeal - we *definitely* need to re-bed the portlights, so I'll use that stuff when I do... As for using it on the salon hatches, we'll see how much energy I have (or how loudly people complain about the skylight in the head) when springtime rolls around!
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
Hi Andrew,

the hatches look great.

Regarding the port re-bedding, if you are talking about the seal between the fiberglass and aluminium frame, I use "butyl" tape. I use the cheap RV stuff for the portlights and have had very good success. The readily available RV butyl tape is not as sticky as real butyl tape which makes it easier to work with and it cleans up more easily.

The real butyl, in my opinion, is best for hardware bedding (stanchions, winches...) and setting lens's in hatch frames.
 

Andrew Means

Member III
Hi Andrew,

the hatches look great.

Regarding the port re-bedding, if you are talking about the seal between the fiberglass and aluminium frame, I use "butyl" tape. I use the cheap RV stuff for the portlights and have had very good success. The readily available RV butyl tape is not as sticky as real butyl tape which makes it easier to work with and it cleans up more easily.

The real butyl, in my opinion, is best for hardware bedding (stanchions, winches...) and setting lens's in hatch frames.

Hey Mark -

I was asking more around the salon hatches; you've got an E27, so you know how there's a lip that they sit over so no water gets inside, but I'm curious about adding some weather stripping to have the hatch rest on to make a seal, rather than the wood just resting on the deck - do you have any on your salon hatches?

That's a good call on the Butyl - I'll probably come after you with questions when the time comes to rebed the portlights : )
 

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator
Administrator
Founder
Covering?

Nice work - great looking hatch! Are you planning on covering that with some kind of canvas/Sunbrella cover when the boat's put away?

//sse
 

Andrew Means

Member III
Yeah, definitely - we had some really great covers made by Julie who works out of the North Sails, and she's going to make us covers for the hatches as well. I came back to the boat to install hatch #2 and there was bird dirt on the other hatch and I spent way too much time cleaning it off, especially since there's going to be plenty more where that came from : )
 
Top