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Hull & Deck Cosmetic Restoration

Hi Folks,

Anyone ever used this product: http://www.newglass2.com/cgi-bin/cp...d=372902&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=splash ?

It is an acrylic top coat that is supposed to look great, and do away with buffing and waxing. Needs to be renewed without stripping every year in the south, and every two years in the North. Poor application, or skipped maintenance coats will make the need for stripping, and re-applying.

I purchased some, and am not affiliated, etc.

- Chris
 

treilley

Sustaining Partner
I have heard mixed reviews on Newglass. Long ago I used Polyglow(same idea) and it worked great.

My 1976 Pearson 28 with Polyglow.
Final_port_side1_jpg.jpg


Now I believe the best way to get that like new shine is with good old fashioned work. Buffing and polishing with the proper tools and supplies.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7567&highlight=helping

A friends 1988 Ericson 34 after buffing and polishing the gelcoat
113215504.jpg


1985 Ericson 35-3 after buffing and polishing the Imron paint.
pict0003_1.jpg
 
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Thanks, they both look great. I'm trying this product first on our San Juan 21, which is beat, and if it works as well as advertised with less time, and cost than buff & wax, then I'll do the E25 too.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
My boat had PoliGlow on it three years ago. Although the videos for the product make it look easy I suspect that it may be tricky to apply well if you have never done it before. (I didn't do it the first time; it was already on.) I do know that if you do not renew it regularly, probably on an annual basis, it will get splotchy looking. The only way to remove it is with their stripping product.

If the boat is already hauled out it seems like a less expensive alternative to compounding and waxing, but then how easy is it to reapply if you have to do it with the boat in the water? Otherwise you are looking at hauling it out each time you want to renew...
 

psanburn

Member II
Hull Treatment

On topic, is waxing and buffing the hull easy while the boat is in the water? I purchased a 30+ late last fall and shinning up the hull is on my list this suymmer.
Thanks.
Peter S
Gayle Winds
Bayview, ID
 

Emerald

Moderator
On topic, is waxing and buffing the hull easy while the boat is in the water? I purchased a 30+ late last fall and shinning up the hull is on my list this suymmer.
Thanks.
Peter S
Gayle Winds
Bayview, ID

No, waxing in the water sucks, IMO. I've never been able to do it standing on the pier, which means you're in a dinghy, and the issue is that it will move away from you, or you from it, with every rub.
 

Blue Chip

Member III
Do-able yes...easy no!.
Best method we found was lying on a "car creeper" and pushing yourself along the dock. Still tough on the arms, and requires lots of repositioning. Best done by two people who switch off jobs.
 
Sounds like reconditioning while in the slip would be easier with something like the New Coat 2. Applying 3 to 5 thin coats in a 4 to 5 foot square with an applicator, is easier than what's been described so far. The applicator might need a pole attachment, but I don't see any hardship with this method while either leaning over, or standing on the dock, or floating next to.

- chris
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
It's a bit of a workout, but I always wax our E30+ in the water (every three to four months between haulouts which are about once every two years). The dock side is a bit harder, as it means lying down to reach the waterline (a thick towel makes it more comfortable). I have to adjust the lines to bring either the bow or stern in close to the dock. On the non-dock side, sitting in the dinghy, hanging on to the toe rail with one hand for stability and waxing/buffing with the other works fine. I would not want to try in the water with a buffing machine--electricity, balance, need for two hands on the machine, etc. make this a non-starter for me.

Good luck!

Frank
 

Greg Ross

Not the newest member
I have used PolyGlow previously

From the PolyGlow instructions I recall quite distinctly that removal of oxidation is the first step in the preparation process. Particularly if there's any colored gelcoat involved in what you're wanting to recondition, unless you get the milkiness off the surface first the gloss over top will do it no justice.
I liked the result I got on my little Cape Dory years ago and will likely use PolyGlow again once I get ahead of other more pressing projects.
 
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