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Bulkhead / Chainplate Question

SkipperDave

Junior Member
Ahoy: What a wonderful site. I am a relatively new owner of an Ericson 35 MK II, 1973. Essentially bought the boat because, among other reasons, I loved the lines and was convinced of quality construction pretty much throughout. Have my fair share of improvements and repairs ahead, but I am a handy guy and have worked on previous sailboats on and off for years (including a C&C Viking 28 I owned with lines remarkably similar to Ericson 35!) Top priority is chainplate repair on port side which I take to be a common task due to H2O leaks from poor bedding on deck. I have done this repair before on another boat and basically plan to scarf in a new piece of wood bonded with epoxy and fiberglass and then rebolt chainplate (STAINLESS IS FINE) with larger metal backing plate on the head side of bulkhead distributing the ‘upwards shear pull’ across about three times the width of chainplate with said backing plate. My specific problem relates to access to old rotten bulkhead as it meets the bottom of deck inside of molded headliner. It appears I will have to cut into headliner to gain access either from main salon or preferably from head side. I have attached a few mediocre pics detailing obstruction of headliner to where I need to get at. Wondering if other owners know why molded headliner bulges approx 3 inches thick as it approaches hull inside on salon side of bulkhead? Would this be a structural form to mitigate shifting of entire headliner as boat flexes in heavy seas? Whatever the reason, I am inclined to cut into headliner to access bulkhead from ‘head side’. Any light shed on this aspect of repair would be much appreciated plus any further tips on chainplate/bulkhead project on whole would be great.
 

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exoduse35

Sustaining Member
Don't cut the headlinner... It is not too difficult to slice the last few inches with a chisel or one of many other choices. It will look less daunting if you cut up to and then along the headliner, leaving only the inch or two in the pocket to deal with. it is not glued in and can be dug out surprisingly easily. relax when you are finished you will think it was the easy part! Good luck, Edd
 

Lucky Dog

Member III
I am sure someone here will send you more complete info and photos. The first is our e35II with the same problem. The PO had fiber glassed over the rot and added a wider and longer SS plate. Considering the hold up the mast, I have decided to replace the bulk head. One example I found (here) shows splicing in a new section of the bulkhead. The other (also from here) replaced entire bulkhead, which would require removing the mast post.
 

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tenders

Innocent Bystander
I don't know why that kink is in your liner either -- my 1969 32 doesn't have it -- but I did what sounds like the same repair this spring and all in all it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?p=52891#post52891

I used 1/4" G10 epoxy laminate instead of wood to replace the rotted parts and to use as a backing plate to better spread the loads from the repair into the orginal, unrotted wood. Dang, that stuff is strong.
 

SkipperDave

Junior Member
Follow Up and Thanks!

Exodooce: yep, I sure didn't want to cut into that headliner. I did dig out in upper channel and crap came right out. Am still a little concerned about accessing core in deck from below as some moisture is sure to have migrated there too--confirmed by a little lateral digging with my trusty dental tools from chainplate gap above. Will probably just try to dry it out and inject some epoxy.
Lucky Grog: Replacing entire bulkhead has to be really warranted which is not in my case. Plus the small problem of getting bulkhead in one piece down below without opening up the companionway more than Mr. King planned. Just gonna splice but appreciate pics for comparison purposes. Your PO was not a cosmetic surgeon...but sistering holes to chainplate is good structural solution
And Tender Night: My sentiments exactly- trapazoidal shape makes imminent sense considering upward pull of literally thousands of pounds on chainplate. Not quite familiar with G10 but read a bit about it and sounds like very tough stuff w/ likely incredible shear strength. I might want to use mahogony veneer plywood(if I can find it) for elongated trapazoidal shape to scarf in to preserve aesthetic on salon and back with larger wider hunk of G-10 epoxied in and thru bolted on head side>Whaduthink?
Many thanks all for comments and pointers, past and future. I will post a few more pics as I move along.
SkipperDave
 

exoduse35

Sustaining Member
You can get Mahogany veneer @ .040" thickness...Therefore you can use any material For the strength then cosmetically blend to match! And that channel is to allow the boat to flex. If it were not there the boat would tear itself apart as it twisted. Do not glue into the channel when you do the repair! Edd
 
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tenders

Innocent Bystander
I have not yet figured out what the right adhesive is to glue mahogany veneer like that to a combination of wood, epoxy, and G10.

It might be regular veneer contact adhesive. But I'm not sure. That stuff will be difficult to apply in a cramped boat environment. The fancier, easier, heat-activated adhesive doesn't look like it will work.
 

exoduse35

Sustaining Member
I use Weldwood contact cement. It seems to work OK but I really would like the old stuff that was not water based.
 
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