Stainless steel toggles

I'm running my reefing lines into the cockpit and want to find someone who already has knowledge about stainless steel toggles (see link) and whether they are applicable to deck oranizers and clutches.

The toggle is rigid one piece u-shaped channel that has removable plastic handles that help you maneuver it inside the hole to line up threads. I have used steel versions a few time in my home improvement business and think the stronger stainless one offers equal holding strength to washers and nuts.

I will admit that my recent experience removing and replacing my headliner to glue a piece of plywood for a stereo bracket is attracting me more to the toggle. It was such a pain! I will do it again if I have to but I need someone who understands both the toggles and the installation issues to sway me. I'm on a fence.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...=adwords!6456&keyword=stainless_steel_toggles

Thanks guys!

Joe Antz
1987 Ericson 26-2
'Half Fast'

Using Toggles

Joe: If I understand you correctly you want to avoid opening the headliner and push the toggle in and line it up in the space between the coachroof and the headliner......

First......there is a fairly confined space to turn the toggle....but if you can do it without tearing(I am assuming a vinyl headliner) the headliner well and good, and my next thought is how do you bed or caulk the fitting with any certainty.....if it leaks you are in a world of future grief.....

To quote Loren.....my $0.02 worth......and worth about what you are paying for it.......

Good Luck

Kind of adding a bit to what Mort was getting at...
Those toggles were evidently designed to push through a sheetrock wall surface into an area 3.5" deep, with room to let the toggle swivel 90 degrees and pull back to then thread a fastening into.
I doubt that you have more than a half inch of air space above that headliner.

Next, the best way to torque down the new fastener is to turn the nut and not the screw. That way the sealant is not "spun out" of the threads and achieves its best seal. The toggle appears to be intended for just the opposite tightening idea -- totally by turning the screw.

Next time you have the vinyl down, maybe best to take it in to an upholstery shop and have some additional zippers put in?

LB

Stainless steel fasteners

Mort, thanks for your input. Yes I am trying to save on the headliner work but no I will not do anything that is not as functional as the traditional way.

I have two additional questions; My headliner experience exposed a rough fiberglass surface but nothing that looks like a potential problem to turn a toggle horizintally or vertically. When the toggle goes straight in it will have about an inch or more of space that I can push out a little further against the liner. Do you have additional insight why I will have problem turning the toggle especially around the open cabin space under the organizers?

Second... the caulk issue. Good point. I have to run up to West Marine just to get the hardware in my hands. If I find I will have bolt clearances to allow for proper caulking between the deck and hardware then I see no reason why the job can't be as perfect as 'textbook'.

NOTE: the name of our boat, 'Half Fast' in no way implies how I am proceeding with this project but I don't blame you if it enters your mind. Hey... 2 cents is 2 cents.

Thanks!

Joe Antz
1987 Ericson 26-2 #313
'Half Fast'