Please post. This is a topic with considerable interest.
If recreating the OEM teak and holly sole is visually unimportant, enough to consider another wood and type of joinery... then it might be time for a "current technology" synthetic T & H sole. No worries about rot, and nowadays they are nearly indistinguishable from the very-expensive real veneer plywood product. Or, would that be blasphemy? 
Note that the Jsnaulty post above is from 14 years ago, and I don't know what he means about "junk" T&H. I found the current product to be good quality, although a little hard to find locally.
To Loren's point, I looked for synthetic flooring, and couldn't find anything suitable for a model such as the E38, with a sole that's pretty expansive, and like it or not, a design feature that is visible and underfoot all the time. Might work on other models, though, and would certainly cut down the finishing time.
Some models have a plywood sole set in a TAFG designed to receive it, and that replacement is time consuming but just measuring for new panels, shaping them, and then the numerous coats of finish. Others, like my '84 E38, use trim, and the job gets fairly complicated. Video here.
To Loren's point, I looked for synthetic flooring, and couldn't find anything suitable for a model such as the E38, with a sole that's pretty expansive, and like it or not, a design feature that is visible and underfoot all the time. Might work on other models, though, and would certainly cut down the finishing time.
Some models have a plywood sole set in a TAFG designed to receive it, and that replacement is time consuming but just measuring for new panels, shaping them, and then the numerous coats of finish. Others, like my '84 E38, use trim, and the job gets fairly complicated. Video here.
I think the distinction between soles placed in a TAFG pan (I'm thinking some of the ##+ models) and soles laying across TAFG ribs is important. A TAFG pan provides the structure so you have more options when looking at synthetic materials. When the sole goes over TAFG ribs you have to replace structure as well and I haven't seen a synthetic floor that has structure to it. In that case you have to lay down some kind of substrate and plywood is usually the most cost effective way to do it. Once you add the cost of synthetic flooring to marine grade plywood, I'm wondering if your nearing the cost of T&H plywood.
Mr. Scarlett
Member III
Here's what I'm dealing with right now. Hopefully it makes sense. The stringer is to the left of the batteries. The middle pic shows the tabbing to the hull and the cutout for the fresh water tank - you can see it bearing right down on it. The last pic shows the other side of the (delaminating) stringer. It is obviously not structural as it is not tabbed on the fwd side, nor does it contact the hull. Call me crazy but I think I can remove/replace it without ripping out the cabin sole. I bet I can scribe a piece of G10, marine ply or solid wood to fit without removing the existing stringer in an easy day (sealing edges with epoxy if necessary). Then remove the stringer, support the sole, clean up the compromised weld on the FW tank and smear it with JB Weld (it's worth a shot!) in another day. Then install/tab in the new stringer, shimmimg as necessary over a third day making this a typical month long boat project