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Should the rudder post be greased ?

Sven

Seglare
I've looked for a grease nipple but don't see one. I'm actually kind of surprised because I would have expected one if only to keep water from coming up along the post during heavy seas.



-Sven
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
The two grease nipples on our rudder post on our E30+ are not easy to find. I had to get right into the stern area by the rudder post and look for it/feel for it. I could easily have missed seeing them.

Maybe someone with your model of boat can tell you exactly where they are. I know my rudder moves more smoothly when I've greased it.

Frank
 

Sven

Seglare
The two grease nipples on our rudder post on our E30+ are not easy to find. I had to get right into the stern area by the rudder post and look for it/feel for it. I could easily have missed seeing them.

Maybe someone with your model of boat can tell you exactly where they are. I know my rudder moves more smoothly when I've greased it.

Frank

Thanks Frank. If nobody happens to know I'll crawl in there and see if I feel one, or two.



-Sven
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
Sven,

In case it's the same as on our boat, one was close to the top of the rudder post, and the other was at the lower end. They weren't lined up with each other, ie. one was a little more on the starboard side, the other slightly to port. And it's not an easy area to get into and look around....:esad:

While you're down there, it's a good time to check all the bolts/nuts in the steering system for tightness, lube the steering cables, tighten hose clamps on exhaust tubing, bilge pump tubing, etc.

Good luck!

Frank
 

windjunkee

Member III
Sven,

Research this issue please. We had play in the rudder of VOR and when we did the haul out in June, one of our projects was to fix the rudder post. Besides replacing the packing gland, including the brass fittings at the top of the tube, we had to create a new bearing. Greasing the tube was discouraged, since the interaction between the grease and ocean water creates a messy emulsion that you really don't want.
Instead, we were advised to use a designated mix of west epoxy and graphite. We predrilled holes into the rudder post tube and injected the mixture using a syringe, with the rudder held in place. It was freaky after it hardened because we couldn't really turn the rudder. It took some effort to break it free, but now it is just about perfect -- good as new, or even better than new. It moves smoothly and there is no wobble or 'thump' in the rudder when we are hit from behind by a swell or wave.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA
 

newpbs

Member III
More information please

Jim,

I'd like some specific information regarding your rudder fix. Specifically what mixture you used and where you drilled holes to inject it. Was it necessary to remove the rudder to do the repair?

My 32-200 has some rudder play in it. I like the idea of creating a new bearing surface but would hate doing the wrong thing here.

Thanks

Paul
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Sven,

Research this issue please. We had play in the rudder of VOR and when we did the haul out in June, one of our projects was to fix the rudder post. Besides replacing the packing gland, including the brass fittings at the top of the tube, we had to create a new bearing. Greasing the tube was discouraged, since the interaction between the grease and ocean water creates a messy emulsion that you really don't want.
Instead, we were advised to use a designated mix of west epoxy and graphite. We predrilled holes into the rudder post tube and injected the mixture using a syringe, with the rudder held in place. It was freaky after it hardened because we couldn't really turn the rudder. It took some effort to break it free, but now it is just about perfect -- good as new, or even better than new. It moves smoothly and there is no wobble or 'thump' in the rudder when we are hit from behind by a swell or wave.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason, E-32-2 Hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA

This was on my to-do list, as the folks at my yard suggested I was going to need it sooner or later. They did mention that part of their process was dropping the rudder to coat it with wax - which does seem like a good idea!

As for the grease fittings, on our boat the lower fitting was completely covered with gel coat and darn near invisible. When I did find it I had to dig it out and replace it before I could add grease.
 

windjunkee

Member III
We did drop the rudder in order to prepare the tube. As referenced by Loren, we followed the instructions from West Systems. When injecting the mixture, the rudder post has to be in. Take particular care to make sure the rudder post is centered. We ended up using an elaborate set up of a hydraulic jack exerting upward pressure on the rudder to make sure it was in exactly the right position.
After the bearing cures, its scary. You need to really torque the rudder to get it to break free. We almost broke our tiller, and that was with two people holding and twisting the rudder and a third pulling on the tiller. Once it was broken free, we worked it back and forth and then dropped the rudder out to sand/burnish the tube. The s/s rudder shaft was waxed and rewaxed and rewaxed.
After all that, there is no play in the rudder at all and the movement is smooth and even from stop to stop.

Hope that helps.

Jim McCone
Voice of Reason E-32-2 hull #134
Redondo Beach, CA
 
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