• Untitled Document

    Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

    for the CBEC Virtual Meeting

    All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker!

    See the link below for login credentials and join us!

    March Meeting Info

    (dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

E-23 MK II Chainplates

mfherbert

Junior Member
The port chainplate on my E-23 is attached to the plywood bulkhead. It has some delamination and clearly has lost strength. Is it necessary, from a structural point of view, that it be attached to the bulkhead? I can remove the old plywood attachment and replace with solid wood which would be far stronger and more decay resistant. I want to do this right because I love sailing this little beauty and I want to get to it fast so I don't miss too many races. Thanks
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
Welcome aboard :egrin:

Got any pictures of the bulkhead???

Check out this thread for what I did for my "problem".

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7363&highlight=bulkhead

You can see the joint where I removed the rotted upper portion and used a plywood fill w/ SS plates each side. The remainder of the bulkhead is also anchored to the the liner, just below the reinforcing plates(3 bolts), and also at the bottom of the bulkhead(out of the picture)

If I were to repeat this maneuver I'd have used 1/8" aluminum plates because SS is a bear to cut and drill, and is probably overkill anyway. Sometimes free stuff(the plates) isn't all that free.
 
Last edited:

sleather

Sustaining Member
Fred, Yes, It just so happened that the final "almost failure" happened right at the end of the 2001 sailing season here in the north woods. Nice winter project as the boat lives in the driveway during the off season, and a small electric heater makes the cabin pretty comfortable.

Problem with yours? You could probably use the main and jib halyards, anchored to the life line stanchion bases, to secure the mast if you're in a somewhat protected slip.
 
Last edited:

mfherbert

Junior Member
chainplates

Steve,

I just finished the chainplate repair. I used your ideas and everything has come together very easily. I did use aluminum instead of stainless. All was accomplished in the water. I used my main and spinnaker halyards to stabilize the rig.

Thanks again,

Mike
 

sleather

Sustaining Member
WOW , That was quick.:cool: It took me about a month just to figure out what to do.

I was going to respond to your message and suggest that IF you were going to anchor the bulkhead to the interior liner that you need some shims(~1/4") between the liner and the bulkhead to maintain the proper alignment of the chain plate with the bulkhead.

Post up some pictures :nerd:
 

mfherbert

Junior Member
Right now the bulkhead is in its same position. Examining it makes one realize that it wasn't put in in the most thoughtful manner. It does need shims and bolts not screws. All that comes later. Your help has been greatly appreciated.

Mike
 

mfherbert

Junior Member
In the good old bad old days marine plywood was douglas fir plywood. The grade allowed no voids on inner ply and used waterproof glue. The quality of douglas fir plywood has deteriorated greatly because plywood used to come from old growth trees and now it is very difficult to log old growth. I think that you are better off looking for someone who sells hardwood plywood that is made with waterproof glue. Usually the foreign manufacturers have many more plies in a given thickness.

Another alternative is a product called MDO which stands for "medium density overlay". It is douglas fir plywood made with waterproof glue that has both faces laminated with what looks like butcher paper. Don't let this fool you. It is used successfully in highway signs. I have seen it go through rigorous "boil and freeze" tests and it does not fail. It is very smooth and works well where it is going to be painted.

As to a supplier in your area I can't help. I'm in Washington State

Mike
 
Top