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Portlight gaskets

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
On the interior side of my fixed portlight there is a 1/2" rubber gasket. It fills a gap/channel in the frame around the glass. It appears to be only cosmetic; not really sealing anything. Is this the case?

I looked at the portlights yesterday on the 27 that is being parted out in Long Beach. The measurements on the outside match my ports but I am not sure the interior flange is the same; I neglected to look at mine before I went down there. Anyone know if the original ports on these boats were the same?

The interior flanges on the 27 ports are in better condition than mine and I was thinking of trying to use those (or the complete ports) on my boat. On my boat it appears that someone tried to fix leaking by just cranking down on the screws on the inside rather than re-bedding the ports; the flanges are now distorted.

Also, there was someone here that had a bunch of gasket material for these ports and was selling it. Anyone recall who that was and was it the gasket for mounting the glass or the interior gasket?
 
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mherrcat

Contributing Partner
There is also another, thinner piece of rubber between the flange and the inside part of the frame. This material goes from the mid point at the back of the frame, down along the bottom of the frame and up to the mid point of the front of the frame. Again, this piece does not appear to serve any sealing purpose. I am suspecting that it is not original and was added later?
 

drmsucom

Junior Member
I have pulled my ports and sealed differently than original. I believe this way will work better and last longer. I completely removed the ports. Just unscrew the inside flange. Then the port will be free to pry out by carefully separating the port from the cutout. This may take a little elbow grease as the old seal may have become one with the port and the deck. It will come apart. Once out, clean the daylights out of the cut out and the port. The inside 1/2 trim piece is just that, it does not seal the window. The old window seals may be shot though. In my case I took them to a glass repair shop. They removed the glass, cleaned it and then resealed it with silicon. The window were essentially new again. They did all the windows for about $10/ window. You could do it yourself if your good with caulking/silicon. A little elbow grease and some aluminum polish gets the frames looking good. To re install, I used some 1/4 inch butyl tape. This remains pliable forever. this will squeeze in the outside and act as the new gasket. Then outside of the butyl tape I used life caulk to create a second seal and finished look. Set the window in place and press firmly. Best to have to people, one on the outside and one on the inside. When things appear lined up well in the cut out, screw the interior frame in place. Lastly, go around the outside edge and clean off the excess life caulk for a new finished look. This install is far superior to the factory and likely you will not have to redo them again. The frames off the other e 27 should work. The only issue you may have is if the screw holes on your window are stripped, it will be difficult to attach the window and frame together to get a tight sandwich fit. I did not put the 1/2" trim piece back as they were old and did not clean up well, but I think if you hunt around you could find something of similar size to push in the the track to have a completed finish look. Hope this helps.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Thanks. I was wondering about using the butyl tape as well.

I am going ahead and getting the ports from the E27. They look to be in better shape than mine, but I don't like the fact that they have a black anodized finish that is wearing off. I may strip them down and repaint with Perfection in white or grey. The glass in mine is tinted darker, which I like better; maybe I could rebuild them with my glass?

Dan said if they don't fit to bring them back and he would give me a refund.
 
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