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Halyards for 38-200 1989

FrankJ

Member I
Hi,

I'd appreciate some help.

Does someone recall how long the halyards are for the 38-200, that are led aft. The spec's. in the owners manuel calls for 123 feet X 3/8". I looking at the XLS extra Samson lines. I don't have access to my mast as it's off the boat and in winter storage. Also , is there a company that still makes the boots for the spreaders.

Thanks,
Frank
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
I'm about to replace the halyards on my E30+ and I just took the "P" dimension for the main and "I" dimension for the jib, doubled them and added my own measurements from the mast back to cockpit through all the blocks and organizers, plus a few feet extra. I'm sure they won't be too short, and if they are a little long I can always cut off a few extra feet.

Consider pricing your halyards with Rigging Only. From what I have researched they seem to be the best.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
I'm pretty sure I have the measurements you need in my maintenance log - which is at home. I'll try and post what I find tonight if no one else has chimed in.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
I thought I had the measurements for the replacement main halyard I installed, but no luck.

I do however have the measurement from the base of the mast on deck, up to the crane, and down to the boom end (where I typically stored the main halyard end when not in use) as 101 feet. Add another 10 to 15 feet to run the halyard back to the cockpit, and I would think the 123 foot estimate is pretty much spot on.
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Frank see my comments on halyards in the design thread. I would go a bit longer on the main so it is long enough to reach the ground when the boat is on the hard. Makes it nice when you have heavy items to move aboard like batteries.

As for the spreader boots I would check with www.rigrite.com. You will probably have to call them and specify the Kenyon spreader sections. These suckers are hard as hell to find though. ww.riggingonly.com may be of help too. If all else fails make your own from leather. None of the off the shelf kits I have seen work well on airfoil spreaders and a little practice with paper patterns will have you making much neater ones anyway.
 

FrankJ

Member I
FOLLOW-UP/ Halyards/ spreader boots

Thank you for your responses. I will be ordering the halyards using VPC lines from New England ropes @ 126' , just to play it safe. What difference would there be having a shackle in the finished splice eye or attaching it later? And what should the length of the eye be? Ted, I checked with www.rigrite.com and ordered two sets of spreader boots for the Kenyon Spars SP4 Airfoil Spreaders-which I believe are the correct size spreaders for my boat (1989 38-200).

Frank:egrin:
 

ted_reshetiloff

Contributing Partner
Frank I'm pretty sure the upper spreaders are not the same size as the lowers but maybe the boots are?

I prefer to splice the shackle on and for spin halyards to use a stopper ball to prevent the possibility of jamming at the masthead. You have to cowhitch the shackles on if you just splice eyes and then add shackles later or use a D shackle that can be slid through the eye. Only risk there is losing the shackle when unhooking the sail. VPC is basically New Englands answer to Yale Vizzion IIRC. Good compromise between stretchy polyester and expensive vectran cored lines. I use it on my main with good results. If you are ordering it through www.apsltd.com they are having a rigging sale and do very nice splicing of this typ of line.
 

u079721

Contributing Partner
Unless you are really good at splicing - and get lots of practice - you can easily waste many feet of line doing an eyesplice. In fact, if I were going to attempt an eyesplice in a halyard I would order at least an additional 5 feet knowing this.

My choice would be to just use a buntline hitch to attach the shackle. The strength loss is not really an issue in this application, and it allows you to end-for-end the halyard easily to spread out the chafe and extend the life of the halyard. It also keeps you from worrying about getting the tail of the splice caught in the sheave as it sort of has a built in stopper effect.
 
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