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'87 E28 survey today

RobG

Member I
I did a complete survey today. She showed very well except the bottom paint and cutless bearing. A couple of questions...

I couldn't tell if the rudder has to be dropped to remove the prop shaft.

This boat is said to be "a bit tender". Please define "a bit tender".

Thanks in advance from a possible future Ericson owner.

Rob
 

bayhoss

Member III
87 survey

Having an 86 E28 I can address some points. The first, the rudder does not have to be dropped to replace a cutlass bearing - did mine. Pulled the prop - hammered it out, pressed in a new one. If the shaft needs to be pulled due to scoring from a bad bearing then the rudder may well have to be removed. But, for a bearing alone the rudder may stay in place. The next point is tender, a relative term. Others on this forum are far more informed to define "tender" than I. But, after years of sailing a 28 I can tell you that at 12 knts you find a sweet spot on the 28 that is pure joy. Tender to me is defined as how soon you have to adjust your sails to the conditions, and how the boat reacts to those adjustments. The 28 needs to be kept on its feet. You should probably look in the direction of the Cunningham at 12 knots and then reef at 15.

Best Always,
Frank
E28 Valinor
 
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RobG

Member I
Thanks Bayhoss

I completed my survey today laying out all of the sails and checking them out. After the first going over of the boat (three hours) I took a break for a few days and "took off the rose colored glasses". I did another going over (two hours) and combined my lists from both. Then another couple of hours todat. She's still worth making an offer minus the expense of some issues I'm getting estimates on. I've always done all of my own work but for this offer I don't want to deal with it and shouldn't have to. We'll see how it all pans out.

Rob
 

RobG

Member I
Barient 21 two speed ST winch issues

One of my concerns noted in my survey was play in the drums of the genny winches. I could grab the drum and rock it on the the shaft. The same for both winches. They (as with the rest of the winches) are pretty gummed up so it is hard to tell how this would affect their performance. Deducting the replacement cost from my offer would, I think, be just too much since I already have several necessary ones in the works.

This play is not normal - correct?

How much play is OK, how much is a concern?

Thanks in advance.
 

bayhoss

Member III
Barient winches

Hi Rob,
There should be no significant play in the winches. First, grab the winch and see if it will move up and down. If it does then check the torque on the allen screw in the center. (where the winch handle goes). If that is tight, then try to move the winch side to side. If it will move then check to see if the winch is secured to the deck. If it is secure, then there is probably a shaft/bearing issue. If not secure it is vital that you check the area that it is mounted on for damage. Poorly secured winches can cause significant damage under load. You should not have movement that is noticable to sight.

Hope this helps,
Frank

P.S. I've overhauled a few of these winches, if you need help let me know.
 
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RobG

Member I
Closing this Saturday!

:)I'm happy to say all went well except... Nothing new turned up in the pro survey compared to mine except one observation. The surveyor, after looking at the stuffing box hose casually from afar, said to not only replace the hose clamps (this was on my list) but the hose. I thought the hose was fine and doing this really makes things much more complicated than replacing the clamps and re-packing which I had planned. With all of the chatter about rusted couplings being totaled when removing the shaft from them I'm kinda bummed.
cry.gif

What is the "normal" replacement cycle for these? Is it standard for a surveyor to automatically call this out? He was really great otherwise.
Other than this one issue I'm pretty psyched. It's gonna take some scrubbing bubbles and repair/replacement/improvement but all of I expected after my survey. As I said before she's a diamond in the rough!
biggrin.gif

Thanks again for all of your responses. It will be great to be part of the gang!
Rob
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Those particular hoses are a heavy duty multi-layer product with fabric layers. Tough. But then, it's often forgotten for decades and needs to be tough.

If I were to pick an age limit that's somewhat easy to remember, I would say that most hoses (engine coolant, stuffing box, fuel lines, deck fills, and of course all the various bilge and cockpit drain hoses) are due at about 20 years. The spendy exhaust hose can usually go thirty years.
Head hoses and fittings = sooner... :rolleyes:

Except for the exhaust, we have done all of these, over the last decade, in stages, on our '88 model.
Some looked pretty good when removed, some were cracked and showed swelling and the beginnings of deterioration, and some were brittle and overdue.

Formulate a program for replacement. Follow it. Do your boat's major systems one at a time so as not to have too much on your plate at any one time. Check and/or replace any suspect hose clamps.

The parts are not too expensive, and the time you put in will pay dividends in the personal knowledge you gain of your yacht and your confidence in it will expand proportionately.

Opinions worth $.02, with Thursday discount.

LB

ps: requesting this group to define "normal" may be risky... :)
 
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Special K

Member II
Welcome

Welcome to the club! I have a 86 E28. I am just finishing up my second year of ownership. Listen to Loren's advice, take on one system at a time. I replaced the exhaust hoses this summer. It was not a tough job, but it the peace of mind was more than worth the price of admission. If you are thinking about replacing the stuffing box, take a look at the PSS shaft seal. I have been looking at different options and it seems like the best choice. Now I just need to find the money!

Just think of all the great places the boat will take you. I used to live in Massachusetts and a friend had a Catalina 22 anchored near Abbott's.
 

RobG

Member I
Thanks guys!

Yup. The first "system" to go this winter is the sanitation. Everything goes except the head. It stinks pretty badly. I don't need the overboard option so I'm getting rid of all the hoses and "y" valve, Gusher pump (which I'll keep and re-build), holding tank ect...The system will be very simple with a short head hose to the holding tank, vent and pump-out. All very short lengths.
As for the stuffing box I haven't decided on the PSS or sticking with the conventional with Gore packing.
Also on the service list:
Bottom job
Cutless
Hatch re-build - they are really crazed badly
Lube all seacocks - some are really stiff
Sail service
Lots of scrubbing bubbles. In some areas it's really moldy between the hull liner and hull.
The rest is all acceptable enough to chip away at when time and $$ permit.

Improvement list for this year (I hope):
Retractable lazy jacks
Rigid Vang
New anchor gear (Manson & chain)
Different spinnaker rigging
At lease a couple of Sensibulbs for the cabin

Oh yeah! Selling my current boat!

Rob
 
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RobG

Member I
Hey Special K

Yeah. There are some great "day sails" from Noank. We've visited Block many times but never sailed there. I'd like to get out between the forks and look around too. My brother hangs out in Hamburg cove up the CT River a lot. A longer trip for us but I'd like to get up there too.

Our mooring is right off of Abotts but thankfully pretty far out. Gorgeous area.
 

bayhoss

Member III
Welcome

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the forum. You are going to love sailing the E28. The more I sail mine the better I like it. I have done a fair amount of work to my 86' E28 so if you would like to compare notes let me know. I made the same changes to the head on mine that you mentioned for yours by eliminating the "Y" valve and piping directly to the tank. Just to offer a couple of suggestions, First if you are using sea water to flush then convert to a fresh water tank. Sea water can smell up the boat big time! Second, spend the extra money and get the best oderless hose you can get. I pleasant smelling boat will re pay you.:egrin:

Best Always,
Frank
 

Emerald

Moderator
get rid of the stink

I've had the best luck with Odorlos in the holding tank:

http://www.odorlos.com/products_info/products_index3.htm

It also does wonders in the bilge. I've found that when I still had stink after using it in the holding tank, a splash in the bilge took care of the rest of the stench.

Just for grins, I ran the product by the manager of one of our sewer treatment plats (I work in Public Works at the county level). After checking it out, he gave a thumbs up on it being the right type of product and approach to keeping the critters stink free, and we use a very similar product to keep plant stink under control. :cool:
 
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