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Re-powering an E 25+ with an outboard

philscho

Member II
Has anyone else made the conversion from inboard to transom mounted

outboard power on a E 25+ or E 27 ? Is there anything beyond the obvious

stuff I need to consider?

I am currently trying to locate a 7.5 to 9.9hp long shaft outboard in the L.A.

area and I plan to use the standard Garelick transom mounted bracket that

raises and lowers the motor. Can I drill through the upper part of the transom

to mount the bracket?

Any comments are appreciated.

Phil
 

Lawrence B. Lee

Member III
Phil,
I had an E-25 (the noble Shaken not Stirred) that was always outboard powered so I can't talk about that sort of change. I can tell you that I had a Suzuki electric start 9.9 that specialized in stalling as I approached the dock. The more I needed that motor the more it laughed at me. So we got an 8hp Yamaha that was as reliable as sunrise. Gosh, what a joy. Anyway, I don't think it has a long shaft. The lift was actually mounted on a 4" thick block of wood which in turn was bolted into the transom. Getting it away from the transom allowed you to tip the shaft our of the water. Yes, you can drill into the upper transom for bolts and to run your electric start cable.

Come to think of it, I did have trouble pulling the manual start lanyard because it had to pulled upward to get over the top of the transom. So maybe a long shaft would be better but I already had the wooden block mounted and I did not want to drill any new holes.

As you know in rough water an outboard can come out of the water so be mindful of that. Good Luck.

Larry Lee
Savannah, GA
E32-200 Annabel Lee
 

philscho

Member II
Re-powering an E 25+

Thanks for your response. I have to admit this discussion group is not very forthcoming with information. You may be the first to ever reply to my multiple postings for help with problems. I thank you for your time and information. Feel free to contact me any time for help.
Felipe
 

Rob Hessenius

Inactive Member
Felipe~ I would love to help you, but Im not familiar with the 25+. IMHO of the regulars that do 75% of the help for others, there are very few 25+ owners here. Please dont feel that you are being ignored, traffic here seems to come and go. I know you might need an answer faster than when it will arrive, but sometimes thats the way it goes.
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
It's around here, somewhere...

Phil,
Since the 25+ is closely related to the later-designated E-26 (80's version) and I do know of a 25+ with a bracket and OB on the back, that model might work with that sort of aux. power...
The inboard was probably an option in those days, in any case.

There are threads on this site with a lot of pros (not many) and cons (numerous) of retrofitting an OB in the older E-27. This is often seen as the budget way to bypass a deceased Atomic 4 gas engine inboard. And then there's the thread about the 27 with the electric motor conversion!

You might want to sit down with a cup of coffee or two and do some site searches.

Interestingly, your bio sez you have a 28+ model. Are you buying another smaller Ericson?

Regards,
Loren
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Mounting an outboard to your E25+.

Phil, I did just that by replacing an OMC 10HP long shaft on an aluminum strap and stainless steel spring assist mount (brand name eludes me) with a lovely Yamaha 10HP extra long shaft mounted to an OMC hydraulic lift mount. It was a beauty to behold. By the way, I absolutely cannot say enough good about that engine which served me faithfully year in and year out for the six plus years we owned the boat. When doing the conversion, I fabricated a 4" thick, solid teak block for the reason already mentioned; to allow the engine to cantilever up to the stowed position when under way. Without that block the motor head cover would hit the rub rail (the chalky one from other recent posts). In addition, I cut two lengths of 3/4" plywood that were 3" or so wide and more than the length of the motor mount holes in height that were bolted to the inside of the transom with the mounting bolts that went through the mount, teak base and transom fiberglas. I saturated the wood in West System 105 before installation and bedded all the mounting holes. My wife still single hands and did back then too in the early 1990's and the only thing she couldn't do alone was, pull the engine up into that last tilt. I fabricated a 3 1/2" wide X 13 1/2" long 316 stainless steel "arm" with a 1" diameter bend at one end that simulated the four curved fingers of your hand. This I attached to the split back stay triangle plate via two stainless steel Harken Micro blocks, a #244 and a #245. It was then a simple matter of attaching the curve or the simulated fingers to the engine lift handle and yanking on the line that gave her a 4:1 advantage, effortlessly pulling the engine into its final position. When not in use, the arm would be stowed on the top pushpit rail with "fingers" wrapped around the rail with the line snugged up and cleated in the V of the Harken block to keep everything ship shape. If you want more details and are willing to do a little digging, I had an article with photos of this device published in Good Old Boat Magazine, the #30, May/June, 2003 issue, page 65. It's entitled "Outboard motor hoist." I had access to surplus waterproof, 28 volt Army tank plugs and sockets, a 2-conductor male/female pair of which I mounted to the transom for the engine electrical to the single house battery. The fuel hose was lead from the large factory tank, through a waterproof fitting in the transom to the engine. Just inboard of the transom in the vertical of starboard cockpit seat, I cut a hole for a deck plate that when opened, allowed one to reach a hand inside to grasp and pump a priming bulb that was suspended right there. It was all pretty darned slick and very clean looking, I must admit. Be careful when positioning the engine mount vertically on the transom to take into account the nature of the boat to "squat" when under power. The last thing you want to do is to go to all that work and effort only to discover after the fact that the engine sits too low and the bottom part of the power head housing drags in the water. That's not good for speed and certainly not good for the engine long term. Well these were the things I did to install a new outboard engine to my E25+ and I hope they will give you inspired ideas as to how to do it with yours. Keep us all posted, Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

Mark F

Contributing Partner
Blogs Author
There must be two Philscho's here. The Felipe-Philscho gets no response to questions and the Phil-Philscho gets plenty.

"...I have to admit this discussion group is not very forthcoming with information. You may be the first to ever reply to my multiple postings for help with problems.
Felipe "
 

philscho

Member II
Repowering the E 25+

Thanks,

There is some really helpful info here. I wonder if Glyn Judson can tell me if

there are some used marine equipment stores anywhere near MDR? I am

looking for some used hardware ( engine mounting bracket ) for this E 25+.

Felipe
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
Consignment chandlery near MDR.

Felipe, David is right about Minney's in Costa Mesa (just drove by there it this morning after buying a waaay cool NOS circa 1950's Craftsman 12" disc sander in San Diego). A neat, smaller consignment chandlery a bit closer is Kelly Marine in San Pedro http://www.kellymarine.com/. Listen, if you're patient and know exactly what you want, go to the Good Old Boat web site and print their North American (USA & Canada) Consignment list and get to work at the keyboard or the phone. I can't tell you the fine number of items I've gotten that way from Sydney BC, six matching bronze shackles, Mystic CT, W/C nav lights, Rhode Island, a pair of 2-speed bronze Barlow 23 S/T winches and a vintage Ideal windless from Florida, go for it. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 

philscho

Member II
Great help....Thanks.

I will keep you posted on how this re-power project turns out. I will have everything in place to sail the boat from King Harbor in Redondo Beach up to
MDR where I will moor the boat. How long should that sail take me if I can
average 4.5 knts?
Thanks,
Felipe
 

Glyn Judson

Moderator
Moderator
King Harbor to MDR.

Felipe, A day with good wind will get you there in 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Be sure to make your departure in the afternoon, say 1400 plus or minus an hour. The Portofino Inn http://www.hotelportofino.com/ is a favorite destination for us to visit from our slip in MDR. The Inn will give you a slip for the afternoon or evening if you make reservations to dine in their restaurant or will rent you a slip for the weekend if you're looking for a change of scenery but don't have the time to head over to the island. Glyn Judson, E31 hull #55, Marina del Rey, CA
 
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