Replace Standing Rig -- Costs/Options?
- Thread starter C Masone
- Start date
treilley
Sustaining Partner
Like any service you need to find a reputable company that you can establish a relationship with. My rigger inspected my rigging and said it did not need to be replaced but because it was at least 12 years old I decided to do it anyway.
It was not cheap. The lower turnbuckles that you need to connect to the U-bolts are very expensive and hard to find. My rigger actually felt bad about the price and discounted his work. I also had a main sail made by him so he did make some money. I believe I spent about $2,800 on just the rigging w/o the headstay. That was replaced with a new furler 2 seasons ago.
It was not cheap. The lower turnbuckles that you need to connect to the U-bolts are very expensive and hard to find. My rigger actually felt bad about the price and discounted his work. I also had a main sail made by him so he did make some money. I believe I spent about $2,800 on just the rigging w/o the headstay. That was replaced with a new furler 2 seasons ago.
When / Why / Cost to Re-Rig
Prior Threads:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=4242&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2882&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2669&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1096&referrerid=28
Normally, I might want to do a Combine Threads on all these... but like the question that starts this one, the approach is often from a slightly different direction, so perhaps it's best to just keep the links referenced instead.
What do you think, class?
Class?
Bueller!?
LB
Prior Threads:
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=4242&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2882&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2669&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1096&referrerid=28
Normally, I might want to do a Combine Threads on all these... but like the question that starts this one, the approach is often from a slightly different direction, so perhaps it's best to just keep the links referenced instead.
What do you think, class?
Class?
Bueller!?
LB
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bayhoss
Member III
Standing rigging
I have been on the business end of a failure on the standing rigging. If it is over 10 years old do yourself a favor and replace it. The damage that can be done is far more expensive than the rigging. I had my E28+ done this year and the cost was $1850.00.
Best Regards,
Frank
E28+ Valinor
I have been on the business end of a failure on the standing rigging. If it is over 10 years old do yourself a favor and replace it. The damage that can be done is far more expensive than the rigging. I had my E28+ done this year and the cost was $1850.00.
Best Regards,
Frank
E28+ Valinor
Two years ago I had the mast on my E38 down. I stripped the standing rigging, dropped it off at the rigger, picked up the new stuff, fitted it to the mast, had mast reinstalled, tuned it myself, etc. The rigging cost was about $1900 IIRC. Its not terribly difficult to remove it all yourself and then reassemble if the mast is down. RT
HughHarv
Hugh
I read somewhere that 7x7 stainless cable has more stretch to live with but can be eyespliced to toggles and be much less suspectible to terminal corrosion, and the eyesplice is stronger than nicropressed or other end fittings. Course one would have to learn how to splice cable and have a couple of cable fids available but the price of parts and labor would be way less expensive. I suppose inspecting the terminals would be a snap.
You can splice 1x19
You can splice 1x19 SS cable. It is very very pretty. However you are going to have to do quite a few before you become proficient, and it does take a lot of time to do.
Old Concordia Yawls shipped from the factory with spliced 1x19 SS.
Also it requires some special tools, the primary being a splicing vise which is going to set you back a bit of money.
You can splice 1x19 SS cable. It is very very pretty. However you are going to have to do quite a few before you become proficient, and it does take a lot of time to do.
Old Concordia Yawls shipped from the factory with spliced 1x19 SS.
Also it requires some special tools, the primary being a splicing vise which is going to set you back a bit of money.
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
If your gonna splice your rigging go with Colligo. Dynex Dux is easy to splice never corrodes and is a fraction of the weight of wire....
http://www.colligomarine.com/
We rigged a 50' schooner with the stuff a few years back and it is holding up great. My buddy's doing a westsail 32 with it now.
http://www.colligomarine.com/
We rigged a 50' schooner with the stuff a few years back and it is holding up great. My buddy's doing a westsail 32 with it now.
Is there really an advantage to splicing wire?
Wondering if there really is a longevity gain from splicing wire. Seems from my limited view of rigging problems that other items will still need to be addressed on that 10 year or so interval, and does splicing the wire rope to whatever really let you get more life out of it, or are you still doing the same type of preventive servicing, replacing the wire rope etc. regardless of nicropress swages or Stay-loc fittings or splices? I have always thought the Stay-loc fittings looked like a nice solution, but were beyond my budget when I did the standing rigging a few years back.
Here's an example of what looks like a neat solution along these lines:
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/QuickAttach.cfm
Wondering if there really is a longevity gain from splicing wire. Seems from my limited view of rigging problems that other items will still need to be addressed on that 10 year or so interval, and does splicing the wire rope to whatever really let you get more life out of it, or are you still doing the same type of preventive servicing, replacing the wire rope etc. regardless of nicropress swages or Stay-loc fittings or splices? I have always thought the Stay-loc fittings looked like a nice solution, but were beyond my budget when I did the standing rigging a few years back.
Here's an example of what looks like a neat solution along these lines:
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/QuickAttach.cfm
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HughHarv
Hugh
Ted, I like this idea but the terminal and splice fittings drive the cost back up again, leaves me wondering if dyneema can be eye spliced with a stainless thimble?
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
Sure the dyneema can be eye spliced onto a stainless thimble but I'm not sure thats what you would want to do. Yes the cost of Dynex is more than a swaged wire kit but its a huge improvement and once done can be maintained and replaced by an owner with minimal skills. Where the cost comes from is replacing mast tangs and spreader tips. Although these often need replacing on many conventional rigged boats. Problem is few people take the time to really inspect a rig and simply slap new shrouds on. Rarely do they pull the chainplates from the boat for polishing and inspection. Rarely do they look closely at stem ball sockets. See the attached photo.This is a chainplate from a tayana. This crack was where the chainplate passed through the deck. The portions of teh chainplate that were visible were nice and shiny. This crack would never have been discovered without pulling the chainplate. Most folks dont do this because it adds a lot to teh cost of a new rigging kit. Nothing good is cheap....
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HughHarv
Hugh
Did some reading up on Dynex Dux, a large open stainless thimble would be needed to keep the bend radius down and the open thimble would likely collapse under load. There is not much data available regarding UV exposure and creep may limit its life-cycle. At the same time, people were skeptical about wire rigging before it dominated the market.
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
Harvey you should talk to John Franta at Colligo or any of the rigging companies that install Colligo rigging systems. Dynex rigging is certainly new and many folks have apprehensions about it for sure, but you will get some pretty good info from the folks who really know the stuff and have been installing it on boats over the past 5 years or so. Dynex is great when it comes to UV exposure, 15 years untreated, longer if you coat it with maxijacket or something. Creep is an issue but one that they are addressing primarily through prestretching I believe. FWIW I have no connection with Colligo other than being an impressed fan who has seen it in use and worked with it when I worked for a rigging shop. The westsail 32 that is being rigged with it will be in the annapolis sailboat show this year as a Colligo exhibit I believe.
Line and dead eyes... updated
Speaking of "dynex dux" here is a link to a current thread on another sailing site with photos and info about synthetic line for standing rigging.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227113
Check out the photos in reply #19.
The times they are a changin' (albeit slowly...)
LB
Speaking of "dynex dux" here is a link to a current thread on another sailing site with photos and info about synthetic line for standing rigging.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227113
Check out the photos in reply #19.
The times they are a changin' (albeit slowly...)
LB
Speaking of "dynex dux" here is a link to a current thread on another sailing site with photos and info about synthetic line for standing rigging.
http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread.php?t=227113
Check out the photos in reply #19.
The times they are a changin' (albeit slowly...)
LB
Everything about this company is HOT, if I have to replace the rigging I would love to talk to them about the backstay and maybee the addition of a code 0 on a spirit.
ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
The rigging company I used to work for Southbound Cruising Services in Annapolis did the Westsail 32 and the Catana 58 rig in Dux. www.southboundcruising.com. Good bunch of guys and very knowlegeable on dux.
Matey
Member III
Another vote for Dynex Dux
From a good piece on the subject of High-Mod Rope ..
We are probably witnessing the beginning of the end of an anomalous, 150-year reign of wire rope. Oh, wire won't go away altogether, I suspect, but will play a different smaller role in all aspects of rigging - Brion Toss
http://www.briontoss.com/education/archive/miscsept04.htm
I'm very interested in the use of High-Modulus ropes and seeing where things go these next years. My good friend is going this way on his 43' cruising cutter "Island Girl" and we began this summer by replacing his forestay under Brion's tutelage. With the Brummel's spliced in the loft and stay pre-stretched we were able to tension the dead eye by hand(s) .. 2 of us. After 800+ sea miles we re-tensioned it and took up less than 1/8" when we got to San Francisco. A new Staysail made by Carol Hasse has soft hanks like the ones on Colligo's site and while stiff at first they're working out well.
The Rep. from Colligo, I think his name was John was around as the Wooden Boat Festival was going on and was real helpful. He'd said they've had Dux that the Icelandic Fisherman had been dragging on the ocean floor for years, while looking rough & frayed was still getting the job done.
My foray into Dux will be this season when I replace my lifelines. I think Brion said they won't even make wire lifelines anymore on his jobs. I saw a Downeaster with it in Washington and am anxious to replace my cheese slicers. I'll post a thread with details.
Regards, Greg
From a good piece on the subject of High-Mod Rope ..
We are probably witnessing the beginning of the end of an anomalous, 150-year reign of wire rope. Oh, wire won't go away altogether, I suspect, but will play a different smaller role in all aspects of rigging - Brion Toss
http://www.briontoss.com/education/archive/miscsept04.htm
I'm very interested in the use of High-Modulus ropes and seeing where things go these next years. My good friend is going this way on his 43' cruising cutter "Island Girl" and we began this summer by replacing his forestay under Brion's tutelage. With the Brummel's spliced in the loft and stay pre-stretched we were able to tension the dead eye by hand(s) .. 2 of us. After 800+ sea miles we re-tensioned it and took up less than 1/8" when we got to San Francisco. A new Staysail made by Carol Hasse has soft hanks like the ones on Colligo's site and while stiff at first they're working out well.
The Rep. from Colligo, I think his name was John was around as the Wooden Boat Festival was going on and was real helpful. He'd said they've had Dux that the Icelandic Fisherman had been dragging on the ocean floor for years, while looking rough & frayed was still getting the job done.
My foray into Dux will be this season when I replace my lifelines. I think Brion said they won't even make wire lifelines anymore on his jobs. I saw a Downeaster with it in Washington and am anxious to replace my cheese slicers. I'll post a thread with details.
Regards, Greg
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ted_reshetiloff
Contributing Partner
Brion is a great guy. He stayed at my house during the Annapolis boat show. He is probably the authority on rigging in this country. We have often laughed at how many of the old ways are coming back but with new materials. The guy from Colligo is John Franta. He is a really nice guy to work with as well. We used his products for a 70' steel schooner we rigged completely in dux. It really is a great replacement for wire.
Link to Dynex splicing video
http://www.colligomarine.com/
Check out the splicing video's on this vendor site.
Interesting stuff.
Loren
http://www.colligomarine.com/
Check out the splicing video's on this vendor site.
Interesting stuff.
Loren
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