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Troubleshooting foredeck light circuit

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
My foredeck light has been non operational for over a year. When a new wind vane was installed I asked that the foredeck light be checked. They installed a new bulb, but it still didn't work. About a month ago when I had some rigging replaced I asked again to have the light checked. The response was that it wasn't getting any power, but I don't know if they actually used a multimeter to check the fixture or if they just turned on the circuit breaker and noted that the light did not turn on.

I have been trying to check the circuit without going halfway up the mast.

From the back of the electrical panel if I disconnect the wire going to the foredeck light and connect a multimeter between the wire and the circuit breaker I get about 13 volts. That would seem to indicate that the circuit is complete; or that there is a short to ground somewhere before the light fixture. Is this a correct assumption?

Another question. Using the multimeter between the two contacts of the circuit breaker I get zero volts when the switch is "ON" and 14 volts when the switch is "OFF." Is this also correct? (At the time I didn't think to check any of the other breakers to see if they behave the same.)
 

Steve

Member III
Mast Wiring bar?

Do you have a wiring bar perhaps in the headliner near the mast for the purpose of disconnecting the wiring when the mast is pulled or a plug arrangement? I would check there to see if voltage is running up the mast for that circuit.

Steve
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
That is my next exploration point. Some of the zippers in my headliner are frozen and the zipper pulls appear to be corroded. I'm kind of afraid to try to open them for fear that they'll never close again...
 

Loren Beach

O34 - Portland, OR
Senior Moderator
Blogs Author
Zipping along....

That is my next exploration point. Some of the zippers in my headliner are frozen and the zipper pulls appear to be corroded. I'm kind of afraid to try to open them for fear that they'll never close again...

Many of the ones in our headliner were corroded to a gritty death when we got the boat. Aluminum allow zipper pulls can be replaced from most any large fabric store. You may have to -carefully- use a Dremel tool to remove the old one; do not cut into the nylon coil zipper, though.

There are some older threads here that discuss this problem.
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=2556&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=1385&referrerid=28
http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=3158&referrerid=28
Here are three, from putting the word zipper into the search box above, and there are more.....
:)

Loren
 
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mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Wouldn't a short trip the breaker?

I was thinking about this last night, and if there was a short in the circuit wouldn't that trip the circuit breaker?

I remember all those threads on fixing the zippers. That's been on my to-do list of projects for a while...
 

HughHarv

Hugh
Ohm meter

I'm rusty but I think this is what I'd do....test the resistance of the circuit going up the mast to the light with an ohm meter. Look for a plug or other connection at the base of the mast with an ohm meter. Set the meter on ohms (spelling) and touch a lead to each wire or terminal going to the light. If you have infinite resistance you don't have a good circuit, i.e. bad bulb or broken wire. If you show some resistance you may have corrosion or a short. Alternately remove one lead and touch it to the mast to see if you get a resistance change, if the resistance changes this may indicate a short to the mast. If you show zero ohms resistance then you have a good complete circuit, the same indication as touching the two leads of the meter together. You can shut off the power and check back to the breaker in a similar fashion.
 

mherrcat

Contributing Partner
Better late than never...

Turns out the problem was just that the LED light that was replaced in the foredeck light fixture is polarized; it has to be plugged in correctly. I was having some rigging replaced and asked the rigger about the light and he said, "Sometimes the LED light gets plugged in backwards and it won't work." He removed it, flipped it around, reinserted it and it works fine.
Go figure...
 

mjsouleman

Sustaining Member
Moderator
mherrcat,

Discovery is a 1983 Ericson 30+. the mast electrical connections should be the same.

You will find the mast electrical connections in your head to the left of the door.

Look up and unzip the liner and you will see the connections.

To trace the wires to the DC panel is a pain involving unzipping the head liner just out side the head door and along the starboard side.


MJS
 

frick

Member III
It most likely inside the mast

Here is my best guess....

Most Wires running up the mast have a connection inside the mast near the deck. I best guess is that connection is corroded to the point there is no voltage making it up to the bulb.

Next time you drop the mast you can check it... or you can do what I friend did (which I refused to do on my boat.) He drilled an inch and half hole in the mast so he could reach in the fix his bad wire connections.


Rick
 

Frank Langer

1984 Ericson 30+, Nanaimo, BC
I also would not drill a large hole in my mast for fear of significantly weakening it. When I had to troubleshoot/repair mast head lighting, I had a local crane at our yacht club put a sling around the top spreaders, undid the shroud turnbuckles and then lifted the mast 18", at which point the wires were all accessible. I admit it was not a fun experience, but it was great to get the lights working properly and know the connections were renewed.

I wonder if one could drill/cut a fairly large hole in the mast to access the wiring, and then afterwards screw on a hefty plate over the hole, or even a sleeve around the mast covering the hole and a couple inches up and down from there--would that be strong enough to not compromise the mast, yet provide ready access?

Someone with a lot more knowledge about these things than I have will surely have a good answer!:egrin:

Frank
 

supersailor

Contributing Partner
I have found that I can reach the steaming light with a 8' extension ladder. Just tie the bottom of the ladder to the mast so it can't slide out. That would hurt. The ladder makes a stable and easy platform to work from. I also wrap an old tea towel around the top rung so it doesn't scratch the mast. You can do a continuity check (olms) to see if the circuit is complete or open. There are three possibilities here: the wire, the bulb, or the socket. As you have changed the bulb, and the wire is usually not the culprit, the socket is probably corroded. It has been hanging out in the salt air for 30+ years. A better solution would be to change the fixture to a new LED one so you don't have to worry about it ever again. Ditto the anchor light. These lights follow Murphy's Law. If they can go out, they will and it will be at the worst possible time. That cold blue light also stands out more at night than the warmer lights. Also put a dab 0f dielectric grease on the bulb and socket. That will delay any corrosion occurring.

As to professional work. I found all professional work done on Terra Nova (backed by receipts) to be uniformly shoddy. In the last four years, I have redone all their work. This basic electrical is not really difficult and it can save your bacon if you are up in Barkly Sound or Desolation Sound and something goes wrong. Also, seeing all the shoddy but expensive work done by the pros, you can't do any worse.
 
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toddster

Curator of Broken Parts
Blogs Author
I too am hesitant to drill a big hole near the end of the mast. I even put the radar up way too high in order to utilize the existing steaming-light hole, which is backed up by a big weldment. But the correct way to wire a lot of electrical gadgets on the mast is to have a junction box at the base with conduits running to each level. And corresponding junction boxes at the top and at the spreaders. No hidden connections, no inaccessible wires. It should have been built that way. The current compromise is a bunch of concealed terminal strips on the overhead near the compression post inside the boat. I’m not really happy with it.

Confession: I did end up with the polarity wrong on the steaming light. Had to reverse the wires at the mast base on the fly. The whole mast job was done in a feverish all-nighter before the travel-lift date and I’m actually surprised that there was only one boo-boo. But now I have it down for the next two or three months. Hmm...
 
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