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Need Opinions On 1976 E23 That I Saw and Can Buy

Marshall

Member I
If you've read my active thread, asking for suggestions/advice on what to look for on a '76 E23 I may buy, at: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7466 , I DID visit the boat yesterday, (Wednesday), with an experienced Ericson owner (E25) and experienced at what to look for in general on sailboats.

Now that I've seen it and took notes of what we found, I'd appreciate the honest opinion from anyone that cares to share it with me, based on the info I'll try to present here. If you need more info, please ask.
Please feel free to ask me things and/or offer your opinions here, in a post, or in a private message, your choice.
Thanks in advance!

It's a 1976 E23.

All standing and and sail rigging cables appear to be in good condition.

Front and back headstay turnbuckles need to be replaced with longer ones and the toggle on each should be replaced with straight ones.

Mast head slightly twisted (I didn't notice this myself).

Shrouds and chainplates appear okay.

Stanchions (sp?) are broken off on port side, entirely missing one on starboard and the other is bent. No lifeline cable for them. Are they expensive? Are they special for Ericsons or same as others' boats? Are they required for this boat, or can I leave them off for awhile (or longer)?

Mast head antenna cable cut at mast base. Did not see antenna anywhere on boat. Used VHF radio in cabin, don't know if it works.

Although my notes say that deck and cockpit surfaces are marginal, I noticed that running fresh water on the deck (cabin roof?) and rubbing areas seemed to clean them up a bit. Did not notice typical crazing of fiberglass.
Some cracks in fibergass were seen where fasteners may have been overtightened and one mounting flange edge on front pulpit has been bent or pushed into fiberglass surface and one of same flange on rear pulpit has cracked fiberglass possibly from overtightening of pushing against the pulpit in that area.

Tiller handle and its mount to rudder and rudder itself appear okay. Surface of wood tiller appears good and did not notice much cracking or separating.

Appears to have 3 sails. Main is on boom with cover over it. In bags are what appears to be a working jib and a genoa. Did not remove and open any sails, but all seems to feel usable, with life left in them.

In the battery compartment, inside the starboard storage area in cockpit, there are 2 marine batteries that appear clean, possibly recent purchase? Mounted near them is a small automatic charger, likely wired into the dockside power input plug, under a small cover, mounted on starboard side of cabin, just forward from the cockpit.

Did not check any lights or wiring or any electrical to see if anything works. On wall in cabin is a rotary switch for the batteries, allowing to select Batt 1, Off, Batt 2 and both batteries. In the same area is a switch panel for the boat's lights and such. Also a volt meter and another panel, apparently for 120vac power, when connected to dockside power.

Checked the bulkheads where the chainplates attach. Starboard side, where the 5 bolts appear to go through a very thick piece of fiberglass (is that a solid piece of fiberglass, as it looks to be?), there appeared to be a little sign of discoloration on that fiberglass. Don't know if any leakage caused that. If there is wood inside that fiberglass, I'd not know how to check it without cutting it open.
On port side, no repairs were noticed, but the varnished (or?) wood that's there seemed okay. No soft spots or discoloration were noticed. Could it be that this E23 did not have the chainplate leaking problem? Or maybe the caulking around the chainplates, on the exterior, solved any possible problem before it started?

In the cabin, what may be the original cushions are on both bench seats and the V-berth. The two in the V-berth seemed a bit flatter than the others, that don't seem bad in any way. Storage area covers are all there. No porta potty, but there is a mini fridge sitting in it's place (did not check if it works, since dockside power was not connected). No galley area at all. The folding table is missing. Not sure how or where it mounts. There are two household 120vac double outlets mounted (one on each side), for dockside power. Did not check them.

Boat comes with a older Yamaha 3hp, 2 stroke engine. Did not try to start it. Owner says it needs a tune-up, so I don't know if it runs or not.

Owner will sell a 1991 Yamaha 6hp, 2 stroke that I did check. Outboard mount lowered engine into water. I set choke and it started with one pull. Sounded okay to me. Owner says it had recent rebuild, that's why he's firm (so far) on $500 for this engine. (He does not seem interested in keeping the 3hp engine at all.)

Okay, last but not least... I paid a local diver/hull cleaner to check out the bottom and the fixed keel. He spent a lot of time doing so. He's experienced at examining boat bottoms for owners.
He told me that the bottom seemed okay, no cracks, dents, or bubbles that he could find. No problems where the fixed feel meets the hull.
BUT, he told me there were a number of circles, slightly raised from the fiberglass surface, on the keel. He said they did not feel soft and no cracking or other issues, besides these raised circles, about the size of nickles and quarters.
Are these the bubbles that people hear write about?
If so, and they're only on the keel, how serious are they?
Can these be ignored? For how long and what happens if they are ignored?
If or when they need to be repaired, is it worthwhile spending the money to do so, for this boat? (asking opinions, since one person told me that the whole job would probably cost at least $1000)

No trailer for this boat.
No bimini or other top or cover for any part of the exterior, aside from a used main sail cover that's on the mainsail, on the boom.

Okay, I tried to be as detailed as I could here.

The price for this boat, with the 3hp Yamaha that may or may not work, is $900. I mentioned that the 6hp Yamaha that seems fine, is an extra $500. Not sure if I have wiggle room on price for either, but so far he seems firm on both.

Opinions please. Advice.
If I buy it, it'll be my first mono hull sailboat. One that does not need a lot of work or money to enjoy right away. I know that over time, maintenance and repairs will be needed on most any boat. I just don't want to buy a project boat, but rather one I can enjoy without doing much or anything to start.

I'd appreciate your help. Thanks!
Marshall
 
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Marshall

Member I
Please Post Your Opinions

Would really appreciate some opinions about this E23.
I'm NOT asking anyone if I should or should not buy it.
I just don't know what may be a serious flaw or a costly repair and would appreciate help from others with more experience and knowledge.

I apologize for the lengthy post, but felt it best to point out everything we saw that may be important or costly.

Thank you in advance.
Marshall
 

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
If you've read my active thread, asking for suggestions/advice on what to look for on a '76 E23 I may buy, at: http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7466 , I DID visit the boat yesterday, (Wednesday), with an experienced Ericson owner (E25) and experienced at what to look for in general on sailboats.

Now that I've seen it and took notes of what we found, I'd appreciate the honest opinion from anyone that cares to share it with me, based on the info I'll try to present here. If you need more info, please ask.
Please feel free to ask me things and/or offer your opinions here, in a post, or in a private message, your choice.
Thanks in advance!

It's a 1976 E23.

All standing and and sail rigging cables appear to be in good condition.

Front and back headstay turnbuckles need to be replaced with longer ones and the toggle on each should be replaced with straight ones.

This will require the cost of the turnbuckles, you will also need swagging tools or take the stays to West Marine and do it yourself there.

Mast head slightly twisted (I didn't notice this myself).

Are you talking about the cap at the top of the mast with sheaves in it? That part you may be able to find at Defender.com

Shrouds and chainplates appear okay.

Stanchions (sp?) are broken off on port side, entirely missing one on starboard and the other is bent. No lifeline cable for them. Are they expensive? Are they special for Ericsons or same as others' boats? Are they required for this boat, or can I leave them off for awhile (or longer)?

You may just want to replace all the Stanchions rather than trying to find exact replacements. Minney's in Costa Mesa sells new Stanchions for about $35 bucks each. This may require some fiberglass filling of the holes from the old ones. Be sure to put backing plates under the ones you install.

Mast head antenna cable cut at mast base. Did not see antenna anywhere on boat. Used VHF radio in cabin, don't know if it works.

The antenna probably missing from the top of the mast. New one about $60 bucks plus the new coax cable. Make sure you put some kind of foam tubing or a buffer inside the mast or the noise of the cable slapping inside the mast at anchor will drive you nuts.

Although my notes say that deck and cockpit surfaces are marginal, I noticed that running fresh water on the deck (cabin roof?) and rubbing areas seemed to clean them up a bit. Did not notice typical crazing of fiberglass.
Some cracks in fibergass were seen where fasteners may have been overtightened and one mounting flange edge on front pulpit has been bent or pushed into fiberglass surface and one of same flange on rear pulpit has cracked fiberglass possibly from overtightening of pushing against the pulpit in that area.

I have spider cracks around some of those locations as well. Mostly from stress. Once again, check to see that all fittings have good backing plates and that they are not loose.

Tiller handle and its mount to rudder and rudder itself appear okay. Surface of wood tiller appears good and did not notice much cracking or separating.

I don't think I would be comfortable with any cracking or separating. Might want to try to find a new or better tiller.

Appears to have 3 sails. Main is on boom with cover over it. In bags are what appears to be a working jib and a genoa. Did not remove and open any sails, but all seems to feel usable, with life left in them.

Pull them out of the bags and inspect them closer for tears. If they just have rust and mildew there are companies that do clean them. Check the stitching carefully. Might only be a few hundred bucks to have them all re stitched.

In the battery compartment, inside the starboard storage area in cockpit, there are 2 marine batteries that appear clean, possibly recent purchase? Mounted near them is a small automatic charger, likely wired into the dockside power input plug, under a small cover, mounted on starboard side of cabin, just forward from the cockpit.

Did not check any lights or wiring or any electrical to see if anything works. On wall in cabin is a rotary switch for the batteries, allowing to select Batt 1, Off, Batt 2 and both batteries. In the same area is a switch panel for the boat's lights and such. Also a volt meter and another panel, apparently for 120vac power, when connected to dockside power.

Do test each switch on the panel. If something doesn't work, check the fuse. I am pretty sure the volt meter is for the 12 volt system on the boat and not the 120vac (?) shore power.


Checked the bulkheads where the chainplates attach. Starboard side, where the 5 bolts appear to go through a very thick piece of fiberglass (is that a solid piece of fiberglass, as it looks to be?), there appeared to be a little sign of discoloration on that fiberglass. Don't know if any leakage caused that. If there is wood inside that fiberglass, I'd not know how to check it without cutting it open.
On port side, no repairs were noticed, but the varnished (or?) wood that's there seemed okay. No soft spots or discoloration were noticed. Could it be that this E23 did not have the chainplate leaking problem? Or maybe the caulking around the chainplates, on the exterior, solved any possible problem before it started?

Tap the suspect areas by tapping with a hammer. If they sound mushy you my want to take apart for closer inspection.

In the cabin, what may be the original cushions are on both bench seats and the V-berth. The two in the V-berth seemed a bit flatter than the others, that don't seem bad in any way. Storage area covers are all there. No porta potty, but there is a mini fridge sitting in it's place (did not check if it works, since dockside power was not connected). No galley area at all. The folding table is missing. Not sure how or where it mounts. There are two household 120vac double outlets mounted (one on each side), for dockside power. Did not check them.

Boat comes with a older Yamaha 3hp, 2 stroke engine. Did not try to start it. Owner says it needs a tune-up, so I don't know if it runs or not.

At least pull the starter cord with it out of gear to see if the piston moves. It will more than likely need the carburetor cleaned if has been sitting a long time. Get a net plug and fuel filter as well and use new fuel. 3 hp seems a bit small

Owner will sell a 1991 Yamaha 6hp, 2 stroke that I did check. Outboard mount lowered engine into water. I set choke and it started with one pull. Sounded okay to me. Owner says it had recent rebuild, that's why he's firm (so far) on $500 for this engine. (He does not seem interested in keeping the 3hp engine at all.)

Seems like a pretty fair price if it runs really good.

Okay, last but not least... I paid a local diver/hull cleaner to check out the bottom and the fixed keel. He spent a lot of time doing so. He's experienced at examining boat bottoms for owners.
He told me that the bottom seemed okay, no cracks, dents, or bubbles that he could find. No problems where the fixed feel meets the hull.
BUT, he told me there were a number of circles, slightly raised from the fiberglass surface, on the keel. He said they did not feel soft and no cracking or other issues, besides these raised circles, about the size of nickles and quarters.
Are these the bubbles that people hear write about?
If so, and they're only on the keel, how serious are they?
Can these be ignored? For how long and what happens if they are ignored?
If or when they need to be repaired, is it worthwhile spending the money to do so, for this boat? (asking opinions, since one person told me that the whole job would probably cost at least $1000)

Those are fiberglass blisters and I would not ignore them. Haul the boat, dig them out, let them bleed for a few days and patch with epoxy filler. Re paint the areas or the whole hull. Do a search for Blisters on this site and you will get a lot of information.


No trailer for this boat.
No bimini or other top or cover for any part of the exterior, aside from a used main sail cover that's on the mainsail, on the boom.

Okay, I tried to be as detailed as I could here.

The price for this boat, with the 3hp Yamaha that may or may not work, is $900. I mentioned that the 6hp Yamaha that seems fine, is an extra $500. Not sure if I have wiggle room on price for either, but so far he seems firm on both.

Opinions please. Advice.
If I buy it, it'll be my first mono hull sailboat. One that does not need a lot of work or money to enjoy right away. I know that over time, maintenance and repairs will be needed on most any boat. I just don't want to buy a project boat, but rather one I can enjoy without doing much or anything to start.

I'd appreciate your help. Thanks!
Marshall

Marshall, you need to know that boat ownership is not cheap and maintenance is a on going expense. Remember the old adage: “A boat is a hole in the water surrounded by wood you throw your money into.”

IMHO, you could easily spend another 2 to 3 K just getting this boat in shape.


Beam Winds and take your time shopping. A beautiful E-23 was given away on this site recently. There are probably boats in better shape out there. I have seen quite a few in the 3K range that are probably better maintained. Hard to tell without seeing the boat.

Take some digital photos and share them with us if you can.

:egrin:
 

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
Review of Ericson 23 and things to look for when shopping for one from Sailing Magazi

Review of Ericson 23 and things to look for when shopping for one from Sailing Magazine 2/07.

http://www.sailingmagazine.net/boats/6-used-boat-notebook/520-ericson-23


Ericson was part of the vanguard, one of the early fiberglass builders that helped shape the course of the burgeoning American sailboat industry. The first Ericson, a 26-foot racer-cruiser, was launched in 1965. By the early 1970s the company was one of the country’s leading builders and produced a range of boats from 23 feet to 46 feet. Ericsons were invariably stylish, good performers, well built, expensive and designed by Bruce King. Ericson and King were joined at the hip, a union that served both well. For those of us who came of age during this golden age of sailboats, Ericson’s trademark wide cove stripe with its embedded Viking helmet insignia were symbols of quality.
In an attempt to carve out a slice of the booming trailersailer market, Ericson introduced King’s sprightly 23-foot sloop in 1968. Although the boat was designed to be trailerable, this was before the advent of the SUV and it was never intended to be hauled behind the family station wagon and dragged up to the lake for weekend outings. It is a real boat masquerading as a trailersailer and most 23s remained happily afloat all season. It is nice, however, to have the option of leaving the boat on a trailer during the off-season, saving ever-increasing yard storage fees. And should you get transferred, downsized, outsourced or just plain sick of sailing in the same place, you can hitch the trailer to a husky vehicle and head to sunnier climes.
There were two versions of the 23. The MK I, as it came to be called, was built until 1971 with around 140 boats launched. The MK II was introduced after a four-year hiatus. Approximately 270 more boats were built during a three-year production run. Most MK IIs were built as shoal-draft centerboarders. Prices for most used models fall between $2,000 to $4,000, making the Ericson 23 an exceptional used boat value.
First impressions*Both versions of the Ericson 23 are good-looking boats. Each has a sweet, subtle sheerline, moderate freeboard and a sexy, sloping cabintrunk with two small portlights. The most obvious difference between models, aside from the centerboard, is the rudder. MK IIs have a transom-hung rudder while the MK I has the more common rudderpost mounted through the cockpit sole. The MK II deck is also a bit more flush, and the cockpit coaming boards of the MK I were exchanged for molded coamings. Although the MK II has a higher aspect sailplan, the mast on both boats is a beefy aluminum section, especially for a small boat, and is a bit of a load to hoist from the trailer, at least until you get the hang of it. Ericson used the same mast section on its 23, 25 and 27 models. The rig on the MK II translates into around 240 square feet of working sail area and that provides plenty of horsepower for the 3,200-pound Ericson 23. The MK II also came with a fixed keel however, as noted earlier, most were centerboard models. Naturally these latter models were easier for launching from a trailer and the less than 2-foot board-up draft makes the shallowest channels navigable. An optional hoist allows easy adjustment of the rudder, reducing drag downwind and depth for thin water sailing.
Construction*The 23 features a solid fiberglass hull and a plywood reinforced deck. It may be small but in many ways the 23 is built like a bigger boat, Ericson didn’t scale back on construction scantlings for its small boats. The port side main bulkhead is plywood and solidly tabbed to the hull. The starboard side is part of the hull pan. On MK I boats these bulkheads support the mast in lieu of a compression post. On the MK II model a compression post was added. The cabin sole is a molded pan and part of a liner that incorporates most of the interior furnishings. The fixed fin keel is bolted in place with backing plates on the MK I and the few MK IIs with fixed keels had internal lead for ballast. The centerboard is constructed around a steel web core with lead plates weighing 86 pounds and fiberglassed over.
What to look for*Bob Boe, a recently retired math teacher from Lynchburg, Virginia, sails his Ericson 23 on nearby Smith Mountain Lake. Boe, who recently completed an offshore passage with me, is a fine sailor and honed his skills on his Ericson 23. To say he is passionate about the boat is putting it mildly. He heads up the Ericson 23 association and has compiled a trove of information including copies of the original manual. You can contact him at oleboe@aol.com .**When looking at old Ericson 23s, Boe suggests that you should check the main bulkhead for signs of rot and delamination, particularly the port side. The port side chain plates may have leaked and over the years softened up the plywood. Some boats will have a sister plate to help transfer the load between bulkheads. Boe also suggests that you carefully inspect the centerboard. He and a friend rebuilt his last year and it was not a small undertaking. Naturally, any boat that is more than 30 years old will have gelcoat cracking and crazing. Check the standing rigging, some old trailerable boats still have the original rig. **On deck*The cockpit is comfortable and well set up for easy and efficient sail handling. The Mark IIs, with the transom-hung rudder, have a bit more space and legroom. Some early boats had a U-bolt on the cockpit floor for attaching the mainsheet, although most were delivered with either an optional traveler or a cabintrunk-mounted triangle mainsheet. While the main halyard is typically raised at the mast, the genoa halyard and centerboard pendant are accessed from the cockpit. The boat is ideal for singlehanded sailing, as everything is reachable from the tiller. There are two good-size cockpit lockers. Also, MK I models have a cut out in the transom for the outboard while MK II models will typically mount the engine on a bracket. **The side decks are narrow and bit tricky to navigate with the low slung flush deck. Lifelines were optional and there are few good handholds. However, you must remember that this is a small boat, the stays are just a quick reach away as you make your way forward, and swinging forward of the mast is just another step. Deck hardware is light but adequate. It is interesting to look at the original brochure, the option list includes pulpits, masthead light, even the outboard motor bracket.
Down below*There isn’t much down below on the 23 and what there is needs to be discovered from a deep crouch, headroom is just over four feet. But you are not buying an Ericson 23 to live aboard, at best the interior provides a couple of decent bunks for camping out, a place to get out of the rain and a small galley for heating up coffee and light meals. **The plan is straightforward with a V-berth forward. MK II models may have a head tucked behind the partial port bulkhead. The saloon has facing settees and a table can be mounted on the bulkhead. The galley is aft to starboard and includes a sink and usually a single or double burner stove top. The interior is nicely trimmed in mahogany on early boats and later in teak. This joinerwork separates the Ericson 23 from other plastic, stamped-out trailersailers of the same period. The 23 feels like a real boat.
Underway*“The second best thing about the Ericson 23 is the way she sails,” Boe said. “She’s a great performer and is still winning races.” Incidentally, according to Boe the best thing about the 23 is “her drop dead gorgeous looks, she has a beautiful profile in the water.” Boe races his 23 MK I aggressively and sails to his 222 PHRF rating consistently. With a 19-foot, 6-inch waterline length the hull speed is just under 6 knots. Boe notes that his boat balances easily, even with a big headsail. Some boats will have tracks long enough to flatten out a 150-percent genoa. “The boat really comes alive in light air with a 150-percent,” Boe said. “Under most conditions, when the sails are trimmed well the helm has a light, two-finger feel with good feedback and little strain on the helmsman.” *He also notes that weather helm can build in a puff but is easily controlled by traveler or mainsheet adjustment.
Engine*An outboard engine was not provided by Ericson, that was up to the owner and today’s boats have a wide variety of engines perched astern. Boe exchanged his 7.5-horsepower Evinrude for a 5-horsepower Mercury to save a few pounds. “I find the 5-horsepower will push the boat along at hull speed at about four-fifth throttle in a reasonable calm,” he says. “I only miss the bigger engine when motoring into a choppy sea.” One key advantage of an outboard is that when they need service you can loosen the clamps and haul it home or to the shop.
Conclusion*The Ericson 23 is an especially handsome boat that is easy and rewarding to sail. It is inexpensive to purchase and maintain. It’s a perfect starter boat and as your skills develop it can be raced with some success. Best of all, it’s a boat that you will be proud to call your own.
 
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Marshall

Member I
Jeff, thanks for the info. I've seen that Sailing Magazine article. It's helpful.
I know how easy it is to spend money on a boat, my father was into motor boats for ocean fishing. He loved Boston Whalers in the 20+ ft size.

Loren and Fred, thanks for your input.

Much of what I know about the boat seems do-able without a lot of money, except for the blisters on the Keel.
The diver checked and told me that the only ones he could find were on the fixed Keel and none were larger than about a quarter sized coin.
How urgent and/or important is it to fix these? I know no one can see the future, but can this repair project wait a year or two? If it was delayed a year or two, is that asking for much more trouble?

I've also been broadening my search, by watching ads in other So Calif areas and for other size Ericsons too.
It's amazing to me how wide a range of prices there are for 23 - 27 foot Ericsons.
I try to learn what I can about each, from what I find out about each size or model.
Obviously, in my LOW price range, I don't expect everything to be perfect. I'd just like to find one that I can enjoy right away or soon after buying, with me taking care of the other things slowly, over time.

Although I am still interested in the 23' I've described, I'm still looking.

Marshall
 

Jeff Asbury

Principal Partner
Marshall,

I think you have the opinions you asked for. As a respected sailor friend of mine always says when I ask him for his opinions and voice of experience.

"Well if it were my boat..."

If you don't know the history of the boat in regards to things like when it was last hauled out or when and if the standing rigging was replaced, I would really consider hauling the boat out so you can really inspect and make repairs as needed. I bought my E-27 as a repossession with no history of ownership and got a pretty good deal but the terms were "As Is". So understanding that the first thing I did was haul the boat to do a inspection.

When and if you haul this boat out also check the following.

Check for blisters and repair them. (on my boat there were few).

Check the keel bolts if you have them on the E-23.

Check all the through hull fittings and valves.

Check the scupper (cock pit drains).

Check the deck hull joining.

Check to see if there's excessive play in the rudder.

I had to address problems with all of the above on my boat, not to mention issues with the diesel engine right off the bat. About a year later I replaced all the standing rigging, a year after that I got new sails and made more improvements as time went by.

I think it all comes down to what do you want to do with the boat. I wanted to make my boat seaworthy enough to first sail it up to LA from San Diego, then to use the boat for Catalina trips and trips to the Channel Islands. I bought my boat for a little over 6K and within the first three months I had invested more than 10 K into it. You need to have a slush fund for the boat as problems do come up. Over the years I have invested a lot more but I know every inch of the boat now and I am very comfortable with it's condition and capabilities.

The choices are up to you. With me it's "Safety First, Prepare for the Worst". If you plan to sail your boat offshore. I have met boat owner's who's boats have been dismasted and even sunk from neglecting maintenance.

IMHO

Jeff
 

edwardgato

Junior Member
Reply to Marshall

In response to "Opinions please. Advice. If I buy it, it'll be my first mono hull sailboat. One that does not need a lot of work or money to enjoy right away. I know that over time, maintenance and repairs will be needed on most any boat. I just don't want to buy a project boat, but rather one I can enjoy without doing much or anything to start."

This E23 appears to me to be loaded with problems requiring several thousand dollars more that your original required investment. Example: My 1976 E29 No. 477 was only $13,500 for the original cost. However, I put another $16,425 into El Gato before I owned the boat for six months. I probably will put another $12,000 into her to get where I want her to be. Anyhow, you need to know that I love my E29, she is a great looker and a fantastic ride and she has all of my money.

Good luck in your hunt for your Ericson!

Ed Gato
1976 E29 #477
 
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