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E35II Chainplates

CaptDan

Member III
This has probably been discussed before, but I'll ask it anyway:

Any E35II owners ever removed their chainplates, and if so how much surgery was involved?

Several years ago, I gained access to the port chainplate to repair the rotted bulkhead. That involved a complete dismantling of the shelf,cupboard, and covering board at the forward part of the bulkhead in the head. But I don't have a clue how to get at the starboard bulkhead. I assume it involves a demo of the starboard hanging locker; any way to do that without inflicting major damage?

I was inspecting the rig over the weekend, and discovered what looks like stress cracks on the surface of the port chainplate. Oddly these are in exposed areas above the deck, below the toggles, not in an oxygen starved portion of the bar stock. Still, it's got me worried; I don't mind having new ones made, it's the removal of the old ones that's got me concerned.:confused:

Any advise appreciated.

EDIT: Well - duh.....I just came back from the boat; lo and behold, the starboard plate looks like a piece of cake to remove. I pulled the forward settee cushion, stuck my hand up behind the bulkhead and - OILA. Access!

However, the port chainplate's another deal entirely; I'm going to have to disassemble the head shelf/plate box just like I did before. So - I'm still open to ideas and/or stories - related or unrelated. :)

Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"
 
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Lucky Dog

Member III
just required remove bolts

This is what I have from the PO. To deal with the rot, they had added a extra plate.

I just unbolted. I didn't have to remove anything other wood covers.

ml
 

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tenders

Innocent Bystander
That's pretty slick. Do the "new" bolts have washers or some other support under them, or is the new chainplate at a bit of an angle?
 

CaptDan

Member III
This is what I have from the PO. To deal with the rot, they had added a extra plate.

I just unbolted. I didn't have to remove anything other wood covers.

ml

That's quite a beefy upgrade, and the bulkhead repair is quite similar to what I did on my boat. I may seriously consider adding a pair of overlapping plates like those, and I thank you for the idea.

I probably wasn't very clear in my first message, so I'll try again.

In order to gain access to the nuts on the portside chainplate bolts, it's necessary to dismantle the shelving and back board in the head compartment on the forward part of the bulkhead. This assumes, of course, there's been no modification to the factory design which apparently was created with the mistaken notion that the chainplates will never need replacing.

The bad news is, you can replace the entire bulkhead, over build the chainplates, or do whatever repairs are necessary belowdecks, but eventually the chainplates will begin to fail at the weakest part - an inch below the turnbuckles - topsides. Then the plates are history - or the rig will soon be.

I'll take some pix later of the stress fissures and post 'em. I think it would be good for owners with aging chainplates to see what I'm referring to.

Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"
 
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sleather

Sustaining Member
I had a small bulkhead rot problem(hidden behind the chainplate) on my E23 in 2001 and came real close to loosing the mast after sailing in a good 30+ fall blow. The top bolt, wedged against the cabin liner, was all that was keeping the chainplate "in" the boat. Rather than replace the whole bulkhead I opted for a butt joint infill job w/ a SS plate on both sides of the bulkhead. Photos submitted for "reference only" as there's a considerable difference in "scale".;)
 

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rwthomas1

Sustaining Partner
I had a small bulkhead rot problem(hidden behind the chainplate) on my E23 in 2001 and came real close to loosing the mast after sailing in a good 30+ fall blow. The top bolt, wedged against the cabin liner, was all that was keeping the chainplate "in" the boat. Rather than replace the whole bulkhead I opted for a butt joint infill job w/ a SS plate on both sides of the bulkhead. Photos submitted for "reference only" as there's a considerable difference in "scale".;)

Sweet Mother! Thats like killing a mouse with an atom bomb! Those chainplates belong on a 40ft boat! They'll never break again. RT
 

CaptDan

Member III
I'll take some pix later of the stress fissures and post 'em. I think it would be good for owners with aging chainplates to see what I'm referring to.

Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"

And here's one attached.

The insidious thing is, the fissure appears like a scratch, especially if there's a bit of rust around the crack. I polished the plate with a Brillo pad, and the fissure became more clear. (I also adjusted the photo's contrast in PhotoShoppe to clarify the fissure.) The crack also extends around the outboard portion of the plate, and you'll notice it's about 1/2 millimeter wider beneath the cap shroud - where the greatest load is.

After doing some research about aging stainless, I came across some good advice from a surveyor, which I paraphrase:

"Don't fool yourself into thinking these surface imperfections only affect the exterior; they propagate THROUGHOUT the metal. 316 stainless is very rust resistant, but features a low elastic modulus..."

In otherwords, they get brittle with age, can break - rig go bye-bye.:esad:

Capt Dan G>E35II "Kunu"


Submitted for your approval
 

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